UPDATE : A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
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Topic author - Posts: 541
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:27 pm
- First Name: BOB
- Last Name: CASCISA
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- Location: POULSBO, WA
- MTFCA Number: 16897
- MTFCI Number: 16628
UPDATE : A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
I am in the process of adding a starter to my 1916 T.
One problem I see coming up is the level of difficulty to install the firewall bracket nuts,
especially on the side where the starter will be.
I did it once on a '15 T with a starter and it was no fun.
So, I made these "nut plates".
I threaded two 3/8" - 24 holes in a 1/2" piece of steel.
They are spaced two inches on center to match the firewall bracket.
The block is held in place with a 1/4" - 20 countersunk screw.
Now the firewall can be mounted with a couple 3/8" - 24 bolts and lock-washers.
As this is untreated steel, I will use some anti-seize on all of the hardware.
This could be accomplished several different ways.
A couple of nuts could be welded to a plate or even directly to the frame.
Hopes this helps.
[/size][/b]
One problem I see coming up is the level of difficulty to install the firewall bracket nuts,
especially on the side where the starter will be.
I did it once on a '15 T with a starter and it was no fun.
So, I made these "nut plates".
I threaded two 3/8" - 24 holes in a 1/2" piece of steel.
They are spaced two inches on center to match the firewall bracket.
The block is held in place with a 1/4" - 20 countersunk screw.
Now the firewall can be mounted with a couple 3/8" - 24 bolts and lock-washers.
As this is untreated steel, I will use some anti-seize on all of the hardware.
This could be accomplished several different ways.
A couple of nuts could be welded to a plate or even directly to the frame.
Hopes this helps.
[/size][/b]
Last edited by BE_ZERO_BE on Sun Jan 02, 2022 5:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Respectfully Submitted,
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
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Re: A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
Bob , I do it this way :
Toon-
Topic author - Posts: 541
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- MTFCI Number: 16628
Re: A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
Toon,
Great idea.
I like it.
Great idea.
I like it.
Respectfully Submitted,
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
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Re: A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
The block looks like a good idea to me. I would chamfer the top edges of the block slightly to avoid to possibility of their wearing a notch in the frame rail over time. Some anti-squeak on both the top and bottom of the frame rail at that point might be a good idea. Some movement is bound to occur when the car is in motion, and probably needs to to avoid cracking the sheet metal. I would not weld anything to the frame rail.
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Topic author - Posts: 541
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:27 pm
- First Name: BOB
- Last Name: CASCISA
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 TOURING
- Location: POULSBO, WA
- MTFCA Number: 16897
- MTFCI Number: 16628
Re: A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
I reserected this thread to share yet another starter conversion tip.
The left rear hood latch is behind the starter making it very difficult to put the cotter pin in.
So, I decided to thread the bottom of the hood latch and use a 1/4"-28 Nylon lock nut to keep it in place.
Now all I have to do is hold the nut in place with a long wrench and thread the hood latch into it just far enough until the nylon lock feature of the nut engages.
Some installations may require shortning the spring slightly.
Hope this helps.
The left rear hood latch is behind the starter making it very difficult to put the cotter pin in.
So, I decided to thread the bottom of the hood latch and use a 1/4"-28 Nylon lock nut to keep it in place.
Now all I have to do is hold the nut in place with a long wrench and thread the hood latch into it just far enough until the nylon lock feature of the nut engages.
Some installations may require shortning the spring slightly.
Hope this helps.
Respectfully Submitted,
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
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Re: UPDATE : A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
Great idea Bob, I’m stealing that one!
Andy
Andy
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Topic author - Posts: 541
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:27 pm
- First Name: BOB
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- Location: POULSBO, WA
- MTFCA Number: 16897
- MTFCI Number: 16628
Re: UPDATE : A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
To install the nut with the spring, I used some heat shrink to hold the spring and nut together.
A 14 mm wrench will fit the enlarged nut good enough to assemble the hood latch.
Respectfully Submitted,
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
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Re: UPDATE : A Solution To An Old Problem With Firewall Bracket Hardware
Those are all good tips, Bob. Thanks for posting them.