MTFCA Forum

I was aware that you need to take a little off the rear horseshoe.
But a post in one of the FB Model T groups says:
There's quite a lot more to install a SCAT (A stroke) counterbalanced crank in a T. You need the SCAT specific rods, SCAT specific main caps, and SCAT specific pistons. The pan needs to be beat out to clear the rods. The nutplate ring needs a stud welded in to the one between #3 and #4 if it's a three dip pan.

Is all of that correct?
Wat is the nutplate ring?

An "A" crank is quite different than a "T" crank and that's why people go to the trouble and expense to do it. It takes some work, and I'd personally put in a Chevy crank before I screwed around with an "A" crank.

A standard "T" SCAT crank takes very little to fit to a "T" engine.

Steve, that is not a standard Scat crank fitment to require so many mods. The standard ones may, require some attention to the rear horseshoe. Some don't even need that. The stroker cranks are a different beast.

Allan from down under.

If I remember correctly, when Adam installed my Scat Crank he had to modify the babbit on the rods. They did not match the way the journals were ground on the crank. No special parts were used.

I agree with DHort. Every Scat I have put in along with new rods has required the corner radius of the rod big ends to be increased a little. The Scat crank evidently has a larger radius at the rod journals. I haven't measured the difference. It's not a problem, that's just part of fitting the rods.

The one I installed on my T was on a 26. I did not have to modify anything in the crankcase. It was standard T stroke only difference was the counter weights. The crank and block was taken directly to the bearing shop where all the babbit was poured and bored to fit. It was just like working with a standard crank except a little harder to adjust the bearings from below, but if the rods are all the way down when doing the work, no problem. I have not tried to adjust the 4th rod on a 3 dip pan with SKAT. That might be harder than with a Ford crank.
Norm

If they are talking about the SCAT "Stroker" crank, then yes that take different rods and caps, along with inspection plate spacer. Pistons can be stock or high compression T. Langs catalog page 64/65. This one is longer stroke, which I think is same as Model A, hence calling it Model A stroke.

Steve - contact Mike Bender. He put a Scat crank in my model t engine. if i remember correctly, Scat makes a 1-1/4 crank for T's.

There are two versions of the SCAT crank. One version is 1.25 diameter rod and main journals and stock T 4" stroke. These are pretty much a drop in crankshaft. The other version of the SCAT crank is similar to the dimensions of a Model A crank- 4.25" stroke, larger main journals (1.600") and larger rod journals (1.5" diameter). This crank requires larger main caps, as the main saddles need to be bored to about 1 3/4" to accept the larger main journal. Rod wise, SCAT makes special rods or you can use Model A rods, depending on your choice of pistons. The larger crank stroke requires additional clearancing of the pan in a few places- more so for the stroker crankshaft. Hope this clarifies things a bit.

The early scats were the ones that gave trouble in fitting as they had journal size of 1.250" if you used off the self vendor supplied rods the babbitt size was the same, so no oil clearance, scats are now running Ford factory specs of a 1.248" journal.

Kerry wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 07, 2021 6:07 pm

The early scats were the ones that gave trouble in fitting as they had journal size of 1.250" if you used off the self vendor supplied rods the babbitt size was the same, so no oil clearance, scats are now running Ford factory specs of a 1.248" journal.

I had a really cherry motor with standard mains. Scat provided a 1.250" on request. Worked out best for me. A little time saver & no shim loss.

I have a Scat in a 13 engine. I had to make the area around the front bolt hole a little thinner, along with the bolt.