MTFCA Forum

I need some advise re reinstalling my intake manifold. I'm using gland and ring gaskets. The gland is in the manifold. With the ring installed over the gland, there is virtually no portion of the gland rim protruding past the ring. That makes positioning of the manifold properly on the block improbable.
The only suggestion I found searching the forum was to chamfer the rim of the gland to facilitate getting it started. Guess I can try pulling the gland out of the manifold a little. Any advise?

Try by putting in the block instead, use a sealer as well on both sides of the ring.

I install the intake manifold first so I can see what's going on and I install the copper gland onto the steel ring in the middle then I install the assembly into the port just a little way into the block then maneuver the manifold into place.

Original manifold or aftermarket hi volume?

Original. I think I got it on this time. Will put the carb back on this evening. Just in case, what sealer do you use?

Well maybe not. One ring doesn’t look to be compressed as the other. Guess I’ll pull it off in the morning , recheck and put some sealant on. I don’t want to mess with again. What kind of sealant?

Take a straight edge and check to be sure your manifold is not warped.

I believe it’s good but I have a back up. If I get up early it will be cool enough to work. I just want to make sure it’s on good so I won’t have to pull the carb off again.

Duckwing wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 10, 2021 7:39 pm

Well maybe not. One ring doesn’t look to be compressed as the other. Guess I’ll pull it off in the morning , recheck and put some sealant on. I don’t want to mess with again. What kind of sealant?

A little black RTV works well.

I've installed dozens of the original style & never used any type of sealant. A number of years ago, the steel rings were being produced a smidge wider than stock causing a "no-squish" issue with the copper rings resulting in intake & exhaust leakage.

The gland is a very tight fit in the manifold. I pulled it out a bit to help me “find” the holes in the block. Think maybe it needs a bit of tapping to get it to pull up flush.

The rings are often too long as formed and will never fit. A pair of tin snips taking just a "shave" off of the end of the ring and reforming will allow it to fit. They merely support things and do no sealing, so even cut too short and made to "spring" a little is fine.

Now that the gaskets have been on and energised, they are no good for reuse and will guarantee your next post will be "my car doesn't run right" and after much searching and angst, will find you have a vacuum leak.

Do a dry run without seals and when all is well, use new seals and start over.

Make sure the manifold and block holes are clean and smooth. Use a knife to go inside the holes as mentioned. Every little bit helps when fitting the gland and rings. And make sure your manifold is straight as mentioned by others. If it’s off just a little it’s a no go with the gland and rings. Gasket sets usually have the flat gaskets that allow for slightly warped manifolds. You can use those a good while but the glands and rings are better in the long run if the manifold is straight.

Jim is referring to intake manifold - never seen a warped one in 50+ years.

Well maybe the third times the charm for posting a reply. I've got extra rings/glands and tin snips - good suggestion. I did clean out the ports and mounting surfaces. This all started with an intake manifold leak.

Jim, you stated” I just want to make sure it’s on good so I won’t have to take the carb off again”. Surely you don’t install the carb only when you have a good intake install. It’s easier to install/remove the carb when the intake manifold is on your workbench rather that clamped onto the engine.