MTFCA Forum

Yes. Best to have #1 piston @ 15 degrees ATDC, compression stroke.

I've never understood the worry that "#1" be "up" at TDC to start the process. It's a 4 cylinder car...every time the crank pin is horizontal, SOMEBODY is at TDC and so long as the crank pin is then further clocked over to 15.5 (or thereabouts) degrees ATDC , that is all you care about...you're rotating the timer to JUST buzz. I don't give a hoot which cylinder it is as it matters not in the least. Fussing and farting around to find #1, and then just missing it and having to go 'round again to get back to #1 is just a bunch of extra work and worry.

Good point Scott about it not having to be #1. Guess I just never thought about the fact it didn't matter when all you are doing is listening for the buzz, not checking the operation of #1. Thanks for thinking.

Jim

Yes, any buzz, anywhere between 1 and 20 degrees ATDC will do fine. As long as the pin has passed horizontal.

Referring to number 1 cylinder, is a carry over from the days when timing light were typically connected to no. 1 plug wire.
If the timer is set much beyond 15 degrees ATDC, the engine becomes harder to start.
Art M

It also helps to "Tune" your Anderson timer. Contacts are not exactly right for correct time of firing. My friend came up with a system and we set a large construction paper circle over the crank handle and marked where each cylinder fired. We adjusted the contacts on the housing so that 1 and 4 fired at the same point on the circle and the same for 2 and 3. Really improved the smoothness and power of the engine. I could pull hills in direct that in the past I would have to go to Warford low.

So this is what I did. I got this info from John Regan. You are correct the pin facing 9:00 to 3:00 puts one of the pistons at TDC.

1. Took the radiator and headlights are off the car. I've got a 26/7 with a bar so that's why my lights are off.
2. Got a new timing rod (and throttle rod) from Lang’s. Don't try to use a bent up one from the past. The one from Lang's put the timer in almost a perfect position.
3. Installed the timing rod and saw that the outside oiler was rubbing so I took a large punch and tapped over the oil line so nothing touches the rod. This is important. Never bend the rod around anything (oiler, water pipe/hose)
4. Placed the timing lever all the way up (Retarded)
5. Took out the spark plugs but left them connected to the plug wires. Never fire a coil without it having a place to spark.
6. Hooked up the battery and checked to see if anything was hot. (Happy the first time I put power to the car it didn’t go up in flames. Ha!)
7. Had my daughter turn the key to battery and one of the coils started to buzz.
8. I turned the crank slowly and got each coil to buzz when the crank pin was in the position in the attached picture. I'm trying to get it at the 3:15 spot so a little past the 3:00 position.
Now I'm still going to make an adjustment to the rod to get it a bit closer to 3:15.

The only place you should bend the rod is at the arc. Close the arc and you will advance the timing spread the arc out and you will retard it. You have to look at the pin at eyeball level. My picture is looking a bit down on the pin.

That's how John taught me. I might add that he is a great guy and I am so grateful that he took the time to help out a new guy like me.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 24, 2021 10:09 am

I've never had an Anderson or other flapper. Can you set timing the same way you do with a roller or brush timer (turn until you get a buzz, then back off a hair)? I don't expect to change timers, but if somebody asks I don't want to give them wrong information.

Can you set timing the same way you do with a roller or brush timer? Short answer will be yes but... you will have to change the timing rod significantly and it may cause issue specially with early car 1911 to 1914 because you will have the belt interference with timing rod. I'm not an expert but I gave up for my 1911 Touring with Anderson timer because the timing rod touched the fan belt no matter the way I tried to avoid it. For my previous 1922, Anderson timer working accurately without touching the belt. Hope my experience may help.

The reason to use #1 is that it's easiest to reach and put your thumb on the hole to find compression when you pull the crank.