MTFCA Forum

Somehow my ignition key came out of the switch while driving and disappeared. I was test driving my 27 without the floorboards. I looked on the roads I drove and I didn't find it. So I need to buy a replacement key. Here's the rub. I don't recall the number stamped on the key and the tumbler has a number 1 stamped on it. I always thought the tumbler had the key number stamped on it, but not in this case. Maybe its a repro.
I tried some spare keys I had from the past and none operated the tumbler, so I am up the creek on this one. How should I proceed?

If it is a repro switch, which it more than likely is, they generally are a #55.

No help with which key but unwanted advise from someone old enough he sometimes doesn’t even remember his own phone number.

Always keep spare sets of keys to every lock you own and keep the sets in different locations. That’s for every car, truck, tractor and door you use.

This will save you a great amount of grief in the future…..Guaranteed!

The restoration was done in the 60s or 70s. The switch is probably a repro from that era. Did they use key no. 55 back then?

Not sure, my memory isn't that long; as I was only born in late 1979.

I have seen repop master key sets for sale.
Langs list them as 5013-MSTR. for $37.95
They cover keys 51 to 74

Current repro switches are chrome plated steel with plated handles but lack the Ford Script. Yours had Ford Script - could be a refurbished one. So take a magnet to it to see . The tumbler face looks original and a number does show looks like x1 could (51, 61 or 71). NOW the reason the key fell out is likely that some of the wafers in the tumbler have fallen out, dropped out of the tumbler. When the key is removed the wafers drop a bit to prevent the tumbler from turning with an incorrect key. Some tumblers were designed to work with a guard so the wouldn't fall completely out see picture. There are also tumblers designed to limit wafer drop - these fit tightly in the guard and catch the sides of the square hole in the lock position. When a matching key is inserted in the tumbler it raises the wafers to clear the stops. My guess is that you need a new tumbler/key. If you can tun the switch with a screw driver tip in the key slot then that would confirm it. Now not all switches require removing the rivets to replace the tumbler.

I have a locking steering wheel....if some wise guy was to lock it and take the key out, I’d be bummin. You can only take the key out if it’s locked and it just spins when locked.
I keep a spare ignition key and steering wheel key in a cigar box under the back seat.

Thanks for the replies. All helpful information. I received an email from knowledgeable friend in the hobby stating the repo switches from time past had the annoying feature of allowing the key to be removed (or fall out) in either on position. Also these switches used key No. 55. I ordered a couple No. 55 keys from Langs and should receive them today. I'll keep one on the key chain, the other in the car. AND I' ll install the floorboards whenever I drive it. If the No. 55s dont work, I'll purchase the master key. If that doesn't work I'll purchase a new switch.

The keys for most of those repro switched have the same edges as a #55, but have no number on them.

The groove cut is just a little off center for most of them and they do not interchange.

I have never see any original information on keys, but the only apparent difference that allows those Master Key sets to work is the distance the grove is off center and which way it is off.

The Master Keys are thin enough to go in the cylinder and position the tumblers to open the lock or turn the key, with no concern for the groove spacing..

Richard, do you remember if the key you lost, did it have the shape of a traditional Ford key??? George

I'll try again. The original tumbles had the corresponding key # stamped next to the key slot. Look closely. yellow oval, to see what it says -that's your key. The first number is limited to a 5, 6, or 7 (key number were 51-74) Now if you are able to turn the key slot without a key, any # key is likely to work. The original tumblers were made of pot meta which is known to deteriorate over time. My guess is that your tumbler is craked and the wafers dropped out. And I refurbish ignition switches in my spare time Examples

My understanding is the '26-7 models were supplied with a brass key, as opposed to the nickel keys used earlier.