MTFCA Forum

I will start out saying, I put in new aluminum pistons, in my 1927 coupe. The measurements showed I needed standard size pistons and rings. I had the Babbitt checked out before continuing. It showed in very good condition.
This was my first attempt at piston installation and I using Plastigauge. The engine turns over by hand, it felt a little tight but it felt the same, before the new pistons.
Once I get it started and it warms up, the motor will just stop. It will not turn over by hand, until it cools.
Does it appear I may have tightened the rods to much.

George

What did you set the ring gaps at?

Did you fit the new wrist pins to the new aluminum pistons ? They have to be fitted properly or they can tie up when engine warms up to operating temperature. If you bought pistons with fitted pins did you check. Also did you check the aluminum pistons and the cylinders, just because the old cast iron pistons were standard size doesn't mean that standard size aluminum pistons are a drop in fit. Off hand I would say that the rod fit is ok if you used plastic gauge to check the fit and the engine could be hand cranked ok cold. See Mike Bender's U-tube videos for more info.

Did you rotate the babbits like the manual directs ?

Aluminum pistons MUST have the wrist pins honed. My '12 came to me with aluminium pistons, wrist pins NOT honed, engine froze (then turned easily when cold), one piston partially melted, not a good scene. Saved by Jack Putnam, huge thanks, Jack!

Pistons should be checked for clearance along the whole bore. Measuring bore taper would be good if possible. .004" piston clearance is about right. I prefer a bit loose. Can use a feeler gauge. First choice of the problem.
Wrisrt pins should easily finger push in. A burr in the rod clamp can cause pin distortion. After tightening the pinch, ensure rod still moves easily & bind free. Were rods checked for straightness? They are dainty & can be bent tightening pinch bolt. Best grabbed by the wrist pin to to tighten.