In the process of changing tires on my 1926 Coupe I heard an odd noise coming from the left front wire wheel. If I turn the wheel and then stop turning I hear a sound similar to pouring rust across metal. It does not sound like bearings and the sound lasts longer than I would expect from bearings. Rust did come out from underneath the old tire, but I’ve already cleaned that up.
I’m wondering whether I should even place my new tire and tube on this wheel. Is there a good method to check the wheel (perhaps a stethoscope) on the coupe or should I remove the wheel?
If if we’re to find that I need to replace the wheel should I replace only or possible retest the rest of the wheels just in case?
Has anyone else ever had a similar problem?
I’m open to hear any thoughts, concerns or suggestions.
Thanks!
Falling Noise in Wheel
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- Posts: 5256
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Falling Noise in Wheel
If you are talking about wire wheels, it may well be internal rust flakes in the hollow rolled edge of the wheel rim. Not much you can do about that.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- First Name: Dan
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Re: Falling Noise in Wheel
Typical of many wire wheels to get rust flakes inside the rolled rim edges.
Noise is like the ole Hula Hoops, with the noise maker inside, making a 'swoop swoop' sound when spun.
Fix for me is to drill a pair of 1/4" holes equal distance around, on both inner rim edges. Then using air pressure nozzle, and eye and nose protection, blow out the fine rust pieces and dust. I do it after the rim has been sandblasted and powder coated. Lots of stuff will fly out, continue until only minimal dust emits.
Then I have sprayed with silicone into each hole, maybe doesn't do much to stop future rust, but seemed like good idea.
Finally, close the holes with a dab of black silicone adhesive, that will dry and close off the holes. The tire casing will cover those areas away and you can't see those holes you made inside the rim.
Noise is like the ole Hula Hoops, with the noise maker inside, making a 'swoop swoop' sound when spun.
Fix for me is to drill a pair of 1/4" holes equal distance around, on both inner rim edges. Then using air pressure nozzle, and eye and nose protection, blow out the fine rust pieces and dust. I do it after the rim has been sandblasted and powder coated. Lots of stuff will fly out, continue until only minimal dust emits.
Then I have sprayed with silicone into each hole, maybe doesn't do much to stop future rust, but seemed like good idea.
Finally, close the holes with a dab of black silicone adhesive, that will dry and close off the holes. The tire casing will cover those areas away and you can't see those holes you made inside the rim.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Re: Falling Noise in Wheel
I did the same as Dan, but after clearing the debris from the hollow section, I filled a syringe with "Rust Converter/Rust Killer", squirted it in the hole and turned the wheel to spread the liquid within.
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Topic author - Posts: 19
- Joined: Thu Nov 19, 2020 7:57 pm
- First Name: Glenn
- Last Name: Larkin
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Ford Model T Coupe
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Re: Falling Noise in Wheel
Thank you everyone for your help. It sounds as though a good cleaning and rust inhibitors with silicone to seal the wheel should help. Is there a test to determine the soundness of the wheel other than driving the car?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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Re: Falling Noise in Wheel
Visual inspection is the better way, unless you have x-ray eyes
Some of the key points: Busted welds at the spoke joints, broken spokes, rim won't roll true on flat surface and wobbles, sure sign of bent wheel.
Look for rust out at the rim sides, and cracks at the hub, esp. the cone shape at the wheel drum area, and between lug holes. Look for flattened rim, sign the wheel was used without a tire, like on a farm wagon, and flattened the rolled edge, that would let a tire come off. Worn out, cracked or oval shape lug holes are also bad news. All the above should be checked before buying or using the Ford welded spoke wire wheel.
Some of the key points: Busted welds at the spoke joints, broken spokes, rim won't roll true on flat surface and wobbles, sure sign of bent wheel.
Look for rust out at the rim sides, and cracks at the hub, esp. the cone shape at the wheel drum area, and between lug holes. Look for flattened rim, sign the wheel was used without a tire, like on a farm wagon, and flattened the rolled edge, that would let a tire come off. Worn out, cracked or oval shape lug holes are also bad news. All the above should be checked before buying or using the Ford welded spoke wire wheel.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford