Period correct improvements/modifications

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bdtutton
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:19 pm
First Name: Bryan
Last Name: Tutton
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Model T
Location: Southwest, MI

Period correct improvements/modifications

Post by bdtutton » Thu Sep 23, 2021 11:41 am

Hello....I am still working my way through the restoration of my 1914 Touring car. When complete I would like to be able to take the car on tours and be free to drive it more like a modern car, but I also want to keep the car as period correct as I can. I recently met a man that has a beautiful Model T that he tours with that is almost bullet proof and can maintain 45+ mph all day long. The problem is that he used several modern parts and he says it is great for touring, but he can no longer take it to the old car days at the Henry Ford museum because besides safety modifications they limit what modifications can be done to a car.
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So my question is....to make this a reliable touring car that would still be considered "original", what should I or can I do?
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Here is what I have done so far....
Tires - The car came with white tires, but I replaced them with standard Firestone treaded Model T tires.
Brakes - I did put Rocky Mountain brakes on the car for obvious reasons.
Lights - Headlights and rear lantern have LED lights in them - plus turn signals have been added.
Carburetor - Previous owner had upgraded to a Model NH from a later Model T...I don't have the original.
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What I am thinking of adding/changing
Ruckstell - Planning to add Ruckstell and increase the size of the pinion gear by one tooth to reduce engine RPM at speed.
Fan - everyone says I should replace this with a ball bearing unit because it will cause problems over time.
Timer - I plan to keep the stock coils, but I keep hearing I should replace the timer with an electronic one.
Engine Head - I just want a little more torque...was there an upgraded head available back in the mid teens?
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Can anyone think of any other modifications that I should consider that would make it bulletproof for touring, but still keep the car as time period correct as possible?
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As always....Thank you for your input.

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Humblej
Posts: 1690
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First Name: Jeff
Last Name: Humble
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Canadian built coupe, 1924 TT C-cab, survivor 1924 roadster
Location: Charlevoix, Mi
MTFCA Number: 28034
Board Member Since: 2006

Re: Period correct improvements/modifications

Post by Humblej » Thu Sep 23, 2021 12:35 pm

I love the model t. I love the things that make it a model T and not just a cute old car. I like the buzz of the coils and barfing radiator, the simplicity of no water pump, no fuel pump, no extras. I like hand cranking, 3 pedal tap dancing, fumbling with the mixture knob and spark lever. Henry Ford must not have gotten out of Michigan much as he mistakenly assumed the rest of the country was flat and near sea level, nobody needed to go faster than 35 mph, and we all had unlimited distance to come to a stop. I have had the same Model T for over 50 years. I learned to drive on it. In those days people would honk and wave, give me a wide berth and be patient if I was in front of them. Today I am more likely to receive a honk and a finger, sometimes with some choice words thrown in, drivers cutting me off, zooming around me on the shoulder, and there is an entire generation of drivers that do not seem to know what those hand positions for right turn, left turn, and stop mean. There are no period accessories that solve bad, rude, and dangerous drivers, if there were that's what I would install. That being said, when I drive on a country dirt road, slowly, at 25-30mph, no traffic, just the Model T in the environment it was made for, it is a thing of beauty and joy. If the Model T is properly restored, properly maintained, and properly operated, it IS bullet proof and a pleasure to drive. No accessories needed. In the course of 50 years I have added a Ford accessory stop light, and a Boyce motometer with a Boyce spring loaded flip up radiator cap which allows me to check the coolant level without having to unscrew the fine threads on the original cap. Internal unseen changes include aluminum pistons, adjustable tappets, needle bearings in the fan, modern rear axle seals, etc., but I consider it to be essentially stock. I have driven it on a couple of tours and even from Michigan to the first T Homecoming in Ohio. What accessories do I recommend? why none of course.


speedytinc
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Last Name: karvaly
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
Location: orange, ca
MTFCA Number: 14383
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Re: Period correct improvements/modifications

Post by speedytinc » Thu Sep 23, 2021 12:42 pm

You are already way past period correct with the leds & fan pulley. No judgement here. I believe they are to be vigorously used. I wouldnt do this to a pre 13, personally, due to rarity.
You are building a reliable model T. Show correct, period correct, or driver. You chose driver. IMHO.

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Oldav8tor
Posts: 1928
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Re: Period correct improvements/modifications

Post by Oldav8tor » Thu Sep 23, 2021 12:49 pm

I can't take my 1917 Touring to Greenfield Village because it has rear disc brakes. Nonetheless, I wouldn't have it any other way. I drive my car on tour so safety is uppermost in my mind. If you read the "Participant's Info" from the Old Car Festival it will clarify what they do allow.

Most of the modifications you describe would not be disqualifying. For example, I have a Z high compression head but with paint on it you can't tell it from an original "high" head. I also have a ball-bearing type fan using later style blades because of the risk that the originals might fail and take out the radiator. I replaced the radiator with a Berg's and have never had a single incidence of overheating. I use original coils with a New Day timer which has worked great for more than 4000 miles.

I also added a 12 volt geared starter and converted the headlights, tail light, and side lights to LED's. I also added a auxiliary wishbone attached to the underside of the front axle in addition to the original top mount. I added floating rear safety hubs and new rear axles - the combination better supports the car's weight and prevents the loss of a wheel in the event an axle breaks. Rather than a Ruckstell I installed a 10 tooth pinion in place of the standard 11 tooth. Never having driven a car with a ruckstell I am not qualified to give an opinion on their value. I can achieve 45 mph but have no interest in driving at that speed under normal conditions - too windy in an open car plus more wear and tear. Speed is not the reason I bought a Model T.

Someone in the distant past converted my car to demountable wheels - if your car has non-demountables that's something you might want to consider. Fixing a flat by the side of the road may be part of the Model T experience but it is no fun.

Good luck with your car - if you haven't joined a Model T club I suggest you do so. You'll make new friends and learn a lot.
1917 Touring
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor

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George House
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘10 Maxwell AA, ‘11Hupp Model 20, Two 1914 Ford runabouts, 19 centerdoor, 25 C Cab,26 roadster
Location: Northern Caldwell County TX
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Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Period correct improvements/modifications

Post by George House » Thu Sep 23, 2021 12:54 pm

I’m with Jeff on everything he has said but, to answer your question, a Stipe 280 cam. It’s invisible to THF. I’ve never added modern accessories. Greatly enjoy the U&J period correct high performance carb on my ‘14.
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people 🤪

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BuddyTheRoadster
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 roadster
Location: Huntington Beach CA

Re: Period correct improvements/modifications

Post by BuddyTheRoadster » Fri Sep 24, 2021 12:58 am

There probably would not have been a higher compression cylinder head in 1914 as 1914s came with the low head that had slightly higher compression. (Ford switched to the high head in 1916, it had lower compression to cope with crappy wartime gasoline.)

There really weren't that many performance-enhancing modifications for Ts in 1914. If you're willing to be period correct for the mid-1920s, then high compression cylinder heads, a plethora of different timer designs, lighter pistons, Dunn bolt-on counterweights, Shur-Mike counterbalanced crankshafts, Ruckstells rear ends, and a variety of aftermarket carburetors would all have been available. If you don't want to pull the motor, maybe a higher compression cylinder head (1920s Waukesha Ricardo or modern Z or Pruss) and aftermarket carburetor (U&J, Stromberg OF, Zenith 0-4 or S4BF) would suit your needs? If you're going to do a motor rebuild, then a newer camshaft grind, SCAT crankshaft, high compression pistons, and engine/transmission balancing will all help.

Now, where do you find yourself wanting more torque? Is it more of a hill climbing or acceleration issue for you?


Scott_Conger
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Re: Period correct improvements/modifications

Post by Scott_Conger » Sat Sep 25, 2021 6:14 pm

Brian

to your question specifically on Ruckstell. By changing your gear ratio to decrease engine speed, you may well lose the ability to buck headwinds easily (remember there is not unlimited power and VERY often there is no gain in speed due to insufficient torque and horsepower due to gearing - particularly in a very vertical-stance vehicle like a '14), plus, the car is a pisser to get going with passengers with 3:1 gearing. Additionally, on a day where the car is really having to work, it is not unusual to lose fuel mileage as the throttle is opened more with taller gearing while fighting grades or wind. You will find yourself having to start in Ruckstell all the time and having to shift to direct with every single start when loaded...that is NO FUN. Additionally, once you tire of starting in Ruckstell each time, you will beat the low drum 1/2 to death with slippage, as the car just won't get up and go in direct drive low with any kind of ease. Standard gearing in a T is remarkably well chosen for the powerplant and the speeds it was designed to run.

Now, rather than go to 3:1 ratio, consider what Ruckstell put in, which was 3.25:1 or possibly 3.33:1

If you do decide 3:1 is the way to go, then ask for help and opinions from cross-country drivers and folks who tour the mountains for their advice for a more diverse population of opinions borne from experience. Remember, setting it up for touring, will very likely put you on very steep hills as well as flat-land...

For more "grunt" for climbing hills, I installed a Waukesha-Ricardo head and a Stipe 280 cam with 7 1/2 degree advance timing gear. Very little compression increase (to be kind to the mains) but MUCH more efficient combustion. The advanced gear on the cam drops the power band to lower RPM and will REALLY let you climb hills (a regular gear will let the cam make more speed). Note: I think the 7 1/2 degree advance is a little overkill and would ask Dan McEachern to make me a 4 degree or possibly a 5 degree gear for my next motor. I am NOT a go-fast guy, but this combination really makes my '23 pull nicely.
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured

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