MTFCA Forum

I’m sure this is a newbie question, but when I went to remove this plug’s cable, it’s terminal unscrewed from the porcelain. Is this common and repairable, or is it time for new plug? Also, even though the plug’s terminal is loose on the cable terminal, the knurled nut won’t unscrew from the stud.

Replace it.

No fix, replace. The Champion 25 is made with ceramic cemented thread terminal.

That thumb nut is obviously wrecked by pliers used on its knurl. Never wrench a thumb nut, use thumb and finger tight only. A wrenched tight thumb nut will break a terminal and resist removal as you know!

Also those modern thumb nuts are non-anodized alum. and corrode easy to the brass plug lead or the plug terminal. Replace with brass nuts or use anti-seize to help prevent that happening.

It would be much easier for the poster to translate to English before posting, than for each reader to try to do a translation. Could he please find someone to translate first?
Norm

Norman Kling wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 08, 2022 10:52 am

It would be much easier for the poster to translate to English before posting, than for each reader to try to do a translation. Could he please find someone to translate first?
Norm

That entry by joreid is about over the counter drugs like Ibuprofen - has nothing to do with our forum. Its likely a bug in the forum software being used and the server it runs on. It happened a few weeks ago as well. Its not a hacker

Looks to me that you would only need to translate if you or you cattle had roundworm?
Junk mail in my view.

Harry Lillo wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 08, 2022 11:10 am

Looks to me that you would only need to translate if you or you cattle had roundworm?
Junk mail in my view.

The "bug" is in the software and you are correct about the translation
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It's like a fly. Needs swatted.

As far as spark plugs go if your planning to get a new set you can get the Motorcraft T plugs that will work just as well as the A-25’s or Champion X’s. Whichever the way you go your current A-25’s might possibly do the same thing as the one you posted about.

You can probably get the aluminum nuts off by crushing them with a pair of visegrips. Crush them, then move the pliers 90 degrees and crush again. Don't try to unscrew them until you have crushed them. That will usually loosen them. I think the plug with the loose stud would work OK if you get the nut off it and glue it back in with a dab of epoxy on the sides, or wrap it with a strand or two of copper wire and tap or thread it back in place. Never use aluminum nuts. You can expect them to seize. Use brass ones.

A-25s used to be notorious for doing that. The internal connection was badly done at the factory, and that was over twenty years ago.

Screw it back in, it will work in a pinch. Been there done that and is why I don't like those plugs. The thread should have gone the other way, more often the terminal nut is easier to put on then take off.

Yes, like Mark G says, they will usually work in a pinch that way. I did that twenty to thirty years ago. Ran it for maybe fifty miles just stuck together.

The silly thing is, that many dozens of after-market "fuel savings" or "cleaner burning" devices are nothing more than a manufactured stable secondary in line spark gap. In theory, in fact, adding that secondary spark jump does (up to a point!!!) make the spark in the cylinder hotter! The reality is that that hotter spark also greatly stresses the entire ignition system and causes premature failure of points, coils, condensers, and even wiring connections!
Couple those downsides with an unstable "shoved together and hope it stays" connection and it is not something one should run on any longer than necessary.