MTFCA Forum

I am going to make a longer tubular filter screen for a gas tank and have not soldered for many years. I see one can buy small sheets of stainless steel screen. Are there not two types of solder? What would be the correct type to use on SS or does it matter? Any other advice appreciated. Thanks…

Why not use what was original? Easy to procure brass mesh, #100 is the size for fuel filter.

Have done that for under tank potato screens, and to replace the barrel screen in the 26-27 cowl bowl too. Ordered a sheet from Restoration Supply co.

This tank still has a tiny bit of debris inside and the horizontal opening to the potato can be plugged as the fuel flows down. It already has a vertical screen above the potato that needs replacement. Dual filtering!

Just using viable options until I get this tank under control or replaced so I can work on the engine and transmission.

With that under seat tank, you can buy that accessory cylinder screen that solders to the upper inlet of the potato, Lang's has new for $8 .25
Part# 2903BSC. About cheaper than ordering brass screen mesh and forming the same and soldering there, IMO.

Wow, Thanks Dan. I had no idea that part was available…

I don't believe you can solder stainless steel.

You use silver solder for SSteel. Tricky job b/c of higher temps and fine screen. Soft solder and the lang's part is a better solution in my view. jb

you can solder it but you must tin it with an iron first

Fold the ends of the screen over so they will not unravel. Wrap it around a propper size mandral, lay the solder ( 50/50 1/16" works good ) between the layers of screen and lightly tap with a small hammer forcing the solder through the screen. do the same with end. push the screen into the fitting and secure with a drop or two of JB. But if you can get the 2903BSC from lang's thats done for you. I for one didn't know that was available. Thats what the Forum is for.
Craig.

I believe stainless steel requires silver soldering. The higher temperatures required for silver soldering are very difficult to control when using wire mesh. Brass mesh and soft solder are far easier to work with. Getting the brass mesh to hold the shape you require is made a lot easier if you cut the mesh on the flat and solder the edges. Then the solder will hold the shape you wish the mesh to take, at the same time keeping the wires forming the mesh under control.

Allan from down under.