Dash SWITCH

Discuss all things Model T related.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
User avatar

Topic author
George Mills
Posts: 543
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:32 pm
First Name: George
Last Name: Mills
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Roadster, 1919 Hack, 1925 Fordor
Location: Cherry Hill NJ/Anona Largo FL
MTFCA Number: 29497
MTFCI Number: 10032
Board Member Since: 1999

Dash SWITCH

Post by George Mills » Tue Oct 19, 2021 9:21 pm

Just double down checking.

Finally got the T out for a spin and the good news is I can get in and out without cracking my head (still can’t get under but that’s for another day)…the bad news is switching to MAG and nothing!

Traced it all to the switch itself. I’ve heard bad things about replacement switches. Fortunately, it is a pin type back.

I’m going to open it up, and…

What are my odds of just bending something to work?

Should I just go and buy a new best quality back plate?

Or do I just say buy the present replacement switch???

User avatar

Humblej
Posts: 1690
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:23 pm
First Name: Jeff
Last Name: Humble
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Canadian built coupe, 1924 TT C-cab, survivor 1924 roadster
Location: Charlevoix, Mi
MTFCA Number: 28034
Board Member Since: 2006

Re: Dash SWITCH

Post by Humblej » Tue Oct 19, 2021 9:35 pm

Those internal plates are laminated paper. Over the years they warp. It is not a simple matter of bending contacts, the warped plates have to be part of the fix. I recommend you send it to Ben Martin 404 789 six 350 for rebuild. Forget the repo switches, waste of money. may not be able to mix and match modern and other original parts together. Switches were made by different suppliers and some parts are not interchangeable between brands.
Last edited by Humblej on Wed Oct 20, 2021 7:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar

paddy1998
Posts: 190
Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2019 4:28 pm
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Delaney
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1922/23 Touring
Location: Joliet, Illinois
MTFCA Number: 50356

Re: Dash SWITCH

Post by paddy1998 » Tue Oct 19, 2021 10:12 pm

I've got the same thing going on.

I rigged a temporary replacement to use while the switch is out for repair but I'm so pleased with the replacement that I haven't gotten around to sending the switch out for repair. :lol:

https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 01#p176001
Attachments
complete.png


jiminbartow
Posts: 2202
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
First Name: James
Last Name: Patrick
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
Location: Bartow, FL
MTFCA Number: 50126
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: Dash SWITCH

Post by jiminbartow » Tue Oct 19, 2021 10:15 pm

I’m not sure what type of instrument panel you have but I will be listing the nickel oval type on eBay tomorrow. When I had it nickel plated, I had the plater install a new switch. It has an original ammeter with the nickeled flat escutcheon ring instead of the modern aluminum one. Jim Patrick

56EE6E5A-86B0-441B-BF27-3DEAC473AC9A.jpeg
4B960F71-A29A-49B3-8A45-5BA009926108.jpeg
5BFA2F0C-E1A3-4C6B-A5CE-4747CE3AB4DE.jpeg

User avatar

TRDxB2
Posts: 5412
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
First Name: Frank
Last Name: Brandi
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
Location: Moline IL
Board Member Since: 2018

Re: Dash SWITCH

Post by TRDxB2 » Tue Oct 19, 2021 11:22 pm

George Mills wrote:
Tue Oct 19, 2021 9:21 pm
Just double down checking.
Finally got the T out for a spin and the good news is I can get in and out without cracking my head (still can’t get under but that’s for another day)…the bad news is switching to MAG and nothing!
Traced it all to the switch itself. I’ve heard bad things about replacement switches. Fortunately, it is a pin type back.
I’m going to open it up, and…
What are my odds of just bending something to work?
Should I just go and buy a new best quality back plate?
Or do I just say buy the present replacement switch???
The MAG issue has to do with the small inner contact ring and the backing plate. The tracking groves are expected and not normally a problem.
combo.jpg
Pin or Clip type backing plates have the same internal parts regardless of shape (oval or rectangular pate with 2 rivets holding the Cup). Note: There are some exception in rectangular. The original internals are compressed paper and the pin type are a bit thicker. Depending on the problem you might just need a backing plate. These things are really easy to fix. A new tumbler is the more difficult. Send me an Email and we can discuss further - I'll be glad to help you through it. Will need some pictures to see the inside.
IMG_2331.JPG
There is one other internal piece that is the same for both styles pin or clip. However there is a difference in the way it attaches to the square internal part in the first picture. This difference is also repeated on the switch handle. You can see there are prongs on one while the other has flats. Don't worry bout this difference.
Light contact ring.jpg
Handles.jpg
The internal parts provide a spring like effect on the backing plate. So for the PIN type the easiest way to remove it is to a straight edge across some screws to act like a handle while pushing down and rotating counter clockwise.
Do not try to bend the the metal contacts shown in the above pictures - just clean them.
If the backing plate is warped you need a new one. If not, rub it across some fine sandpaper to freshen it up
Do not remove the small ring holding the tumbler (that's when you need to email me)
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger

User avatar

Topic author
George Mills
Posts: 543
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:32 pm
First Name: George
Last Name: Mills
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Roadster, 1919 Hack, 1925 Fordor
Location: Cherry Hill NJ/Anona Largo FL
MTFCA Number: 29497
MTFCI Number: 10032
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Dash SWITCH

Post by George Mills » Wed Oct 20, 2021 3:54 pm

Thanks,

let me see about getting it apart...I won't pry on anything.


Jim- mine is the rectangle type but thanx anyway

User avatar

TRDxB2
Posts: 5412
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
First Name: Frank
Last Name: Brandi
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
Location: Moline IL
Board Member Since: 2018

Re: Dash SWITCH

Post by TRDxB2 » Wed Oct 20, 2021 5:59 pm

George Mills wrote:
Wed Oct 20, 2021 3:54 pm
Thanks,

let me see about getting it apart...I won't pry on anything.


Jim- mine is the rectangle type but thanx anyway
I should have indicated to do a continuity test from the coil screw and mag and turn the key to get a reading before you take it apart
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger

User avatar

Topic author
George Mills
Posts: 543
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:32 pm
First Name: George
Last Name: Mills
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Roadster, 1919 Hack, 1925 Fordor
Location: Cherry Hill NJ/Anona Largo FL
MTFCA Number: 29497
MTFCI Number: 10032
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Dash SWITCH

Post by George Mills » Thu Oct 21, 2021 4:51 am

Frank,

At that point...switch failed.

Mag post to terminal strip screw (+)
Terminal strip screw to switch mag screw (+)
Switch out to coil box (-)
Turn switch to BAT, switch out to coil box terminal (+)

So...that ledge to switch contcacts...

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic