MTFCA Forum

Just double down checking.

Finally got the T out for a spin and the good news is I can get in and out without cracking my head (still can’t get under but that’s for another day)…the bad news is switching to MAG and nothing!

Traced it all to the switch itself. I’ve heard bad things about replacement switches. Fortunately, it is a pin type back.

I’m going to open it up, and…

What are my odds of just bending something to work?

Should I just go and buy a new best quality back plate?

Or do I just say buy the present replacement switch???

Those internal plates are laminated paper. Over the years they warp. It is not a simple matter of bending contacts, the warped plates have to be part of the fix. I recommend you send it to Ben Martin 404 789 six 350 for rebuild. Forget the repo switches, waste of money. may not be able to mix and match modern and other original parts together. Switches were made by different suppliers and some parts are not interchangeable between brands.

I've got the same thing going on.

I rigged a temporary replacement to use while the switch is out for repair but I'm so pleased with the replacement that I haven't gotten around to sending the switch out for repair.

https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 01#p176001

I’m not sure what type of instrument panel you have but I will be listing the nickel oval type on eBay tomorrow. When I had it nickel plated, I had the plater install a new switch. It has an original ammeter with the nickeled flat escutcheon ring instead of the modern aluminum one. Jim Patrick

George Mills wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 19, 2021 9:21 pm

Just double down checking.
Finally got the T out for a spin and the good news is I can get in and out without cracking my head (still can’t get under but that’s for another day)…the bad news is switching to MAG and nothing!
Traced it all to the switch itself. I’ve heard bad things about replacement switches. Fortunately, it is a pin type back.
I’m going to open it up, and…
What are my odds of just bending something to work?
Should I just go and buy a new best quality back plate?
Or do I just say buy the present replacement switch???

The MAG issue has to do with the small inner contact ring and the backing plate. The tracking groves are expected and not normally a problem. Pin or Clip type backing plates have the same internal parts regardless of shape (oval or rectangular pate with 2 rivets holding the Cup). Note: There are some exception in rectangular. The original internals are compressed paper and the pin type are a bit thicker. Depending on the problem you might just need a backing plate. These things are really easy to fix. A new tumbler is the more difficult. Send me an Email and we can discuss further - I'll be glad to help you through it. Will need some pictures to see the inside. There is one other internal piece that is the same for both styles pin or clip. However there is a difference in the way it attaches to the square internal part in the first picture. This difference is also repeated on the switch handle. You can see there are prongs on one while the other has flats. Don't worry bout this difference. The internal parts provide a spring like effect on the backing plate. So for the PIN type the easiest way to remove it is to a straight edge across some screws to act like a handle while pushing down and rotating counter clockwise.
Do not try to bend the the metal contacts shown in the above pictures - just clean them.
If the backing plate is warped you need a new one. If not, rub it across some fine sandpaper to freshen it up
Do not remove the small ring holding the tumbler (that's when you need to email me)

Thanks,

let me see about getting it apart...I won't pry on anything.


Jim- mine is the rectangle type but thanx anyway

George Mills wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 20, 2021 3:54 pm

Thanks,

let me see about getting it apart...I won't pry on anything.


Jim- mine is the rectangle type but thanx anyway

I should have indicated to do a continuity test from the coil screw and mag and turn the key to get a reading before you take it apart

Frank,

At that point...switch failed.

Mag post to terminal strip screw (+)
Terminal strip screw to switch mag screw (+)
Switch out to coil box (-)
Turn switch to BAT, switch out to coil box terminal (+)

So...that ledge to switch contcacts...