This doesn't look right to me.
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Topic author - Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:56 am
- First Name: Jesse
- Last Name: Ashcraft
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 touring
- Location: Northern Kentucky
This doesn't look right to me.
So I got the T running this summer. I put between 5 and 10 miles on it - easy driving up and down my street. While emptying the cooling system to put the car to bed for the winter, I see the coolant water (it was just water) is a reddish brown, the color of a fine holiday cider. It is so dirty I thought there might be oil in it. Then I thought maybe this is normal since it's a cast iron block and the motor has been sitting around a lot. By the way, I had a Motormeter on it for driving and there was no overheating, even the first day driving.
Do you think I have a problem with a cracked block or does this seem normal for start up operations after an overhaul? I think the Miller crew paint the inside of the block too.
What is the capacity of the cooling system? I got about 7 quarts back even with the front wheels 2" lower than the back wheels during draining so seems like there's still a couple quarts left in the engine. Does that sound right to you?
Do you think I have a problem with a cracked block or does this seem normal for start up operations after an overhaul? I think the Miller crew paint the inside of the block too.
What is the capacity of the cooling system? I got about 7 quarts back even with the front wheels 2" lower than the back wheels during draining so seems like there's still a couple quarts left in the engine. Does that sound right to you?
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- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:23 am
- First Name: Rich
- Last Name: Bingham
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 runabout
- Location: Blackfoot, Idaho
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
The system is supposed to hold three gallons (12 quarts). Rusty water seems normal for sitting all summer. 5-10 miles is nothing !. Drive that T !! You'll be glad you did. (and you'll find out what all needs attention / correction )
"Get a horse !"
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- Posts: 6431
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
If it has been sitting since summer with water in it, and now the water is brown, I'd say that some of your block and head are now in that pail.
after 95 years of "just" water in them, many blocks are tissue-thin and will crumble and leak...those which have been blessed with coolant or soluble oil over the years are in much better shape and those are the ones which survive to be rebuilt.
Use coolant or soluble oil, and save the block and head from further decay/destruction.
after 95 years of "just" water in them, many blocks are tissue-thin and will crumble and leak...those which have been blessed with coolant or soluble oil over the years are in much better shape and those are the ones which survive to be rebuilt.
Use coolant or soluble oil, and save the block and head from further decay/destruction.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- Posts: 4072
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
I am working on one which had been parked for 20 years and the coolant was still green anti freeze. I drained and replaced it.
Your coolant looks like rust. You really need a rust inhibitor in it so that won't happen again and also if you have hard water in your area you need purified or distilled water so it doesn't leave lime and mineral deposits in the cooling system.
Your address indicated Kentucky, so you most likely have some days below freezing, so I would recommend the green anti freeze solution in solution recommended for your lowest predicted temperatures. That anti-freeze also has rust inhibitor in it.
Norm
Your coolant looks like rust. You really need a rust inhibitor in it so that won't happen again and also if you have hard water in your area you need purified or distilled water so it doesn't leave lime and mineral deposits in the cooling system.
Your address indicated Kentucky, so you most likely have some days below freezing, so I would recommend the green anti freeze solution in solution recommended for your lowest predicted temperatures. That anti-freeze also has rust inhibitor in it.
Norm
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- Posts: 2270
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:25 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: House
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘10 Maxwell AA, ‘11Hupp Model 20, Two 1914 Ford runabouts, 19 centerdoor, 25 C Cab,26 roadster
- Location: Northern Caldwell County TX
- MTFCA Number: 115
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
“Coolant water....just water” is a radiatorman’s dream. Keeps him in business. Use 50/50 antifreeze and $1 @ gallon distilled water
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people
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- Posts: 527
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:51 pm
- First Name: Terry & Sharon
- Last Name: Miller
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1920 Center Door, 1920 TTWood cab Farm Truck with cable dump grain bed, 1920 TT C-Cab with express bed, 1927 Wood body Dairy Delivery truck
- Location: Westminster, CO
- MTFCA Number: 32583
- Board Member Since: 2017
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
I would suggest you flush your system BEFORE putting antifreeze solution in.
Good Info here: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG96.html
Once you're sure it's all clean, then antifreeze it for the winter.
Good Info here: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG96.html
Once you're sure it's all clean, then antifreeze it for the winter.
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- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:58 am
- First Name: Mario
- Last Name: Brossard
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring and 1914 speedster
- Location: Quebec City Canada
- MTFCA Number: 30981
- MTFCI Number: 30981
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
I use watter and add one small bottle of Glycerin from drug store at $5. Watter is better coolant than antifreeze. Glycerin aslo prevent rust. No rust issues the last 15 years. I had that tips from a old T gentlemen several years ago.
Super Mario Bross
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
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- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
- MTFCA Number: 28924
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
My question would be is it best to drain the cooling system every few years even if you have a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. I have 3 T’s and drive one more than the other two.
It would seem to me to drain the cooling system after you run the car and get it up to running temperature for a good while and then drain the radiator AFTER rather than draining it if it hasn’t run for a few months. At least the rust or whatever would have a tendency to come out rather than draining a cold mixture.
It would seem to me to drain the cooling system after you run the car and get it up to running temperature for a good while and then drain the radiator AFTER rather than draining it if it hasn’t run for a few months. At least the rust or whatever would have a tendency to come out rather than draining a cold mixture.
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- Posts: 2461
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:30 pm
- First Name: Dave
- Last Name: Hjortnaes
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 24 Speedster, 20 touring
- Location: Men Falls, WI
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Re: This doesn't look right to me.
I don't understand why anyone living as far south as Kentucky would ever put a T away for winter.
Fill it up with clear water, drive a mile or two, and drain again. Then fill with antifreeze mix and you should be good.
Fill it up with clear water, drive a mile or two, and drain again. Then fill with antifreeze mix and you should be good.
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Topic author - Posts: 17
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:56 am
- First Name: Jesse
- Last Name: Ashcraft
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 touring
- Location: Northern Kentucky
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
Thanks for the replies -
I stuck my hand in the sample I drew yesterday and couldn't feel any oil on my skin so that's a load off. I'm surprised this happen just over the summer. I didn't expect that to happen in 3 or 4 months.
Yeah, I intend to drive it more next summer. There are still a few things I need to sort out and I wouldn't want to drive it any further from home than I would care to push it back. We pulled it to get it started after dragging for 1/2 mile with the plugs out. It started in about a 10 or 15 foot pull. It ran cool even on the first days drive. But it's still stiff to crank. Sometimes, I can get it started on the battery. I crank it right up until I feel a heart attack coming on and it either starts or I quit. I probably should have put a starter on it when I had the chance.
I'll post some pictures when I get the fenders and running boards on to suit me.
I stuck my hand in the sample I drew yesterday and couldn't feel any oil on my skin so that's a load off. I'm surprised this happen just over the summer. I didn't expect that to happen in 3 or 4 months.
Yeah, I intend to drive it more next summer. There are still a few things I need to sort out and I wouldn't want to drive it any further from home than I would care to push it back. We pulled it to get it started after dragging for 1/2 mile with the plugs out. It started in about a 10 or 15 foot pull. It ran cool even on the first days drive. But it's still stiff to crank. Sometimes, I can get it started on the battery. I crank it right up until I feel a heart attack coming on and it either starts or I quit. I probably should have put a starter on it when I had the chance.
I'll post some pictures when I get the fenders and running boards on to suit me.
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- Posts: 641
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:00 am
- First Name: Michael
- Last Name: Peternell
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: TT gas truck, T tractor conversions, '15 touring, '17 speedster, '26 16 valve speedster
- Location: Albany mn
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
It didn't happen in 3 or 4 months this summer. That's existing rust that you flushed out. Go with the anti freeze suggestions. Not sure why so many responses have homemade recipes that were fine 70 years ago? If their recipe is better than the current coolant manufacturers I wouldn't be recommending it to model T guys, I'd be selling it to the biggest anti freeze company that would listen. Good luck with that! One must remember your original block T was cooled by whatever water was handy, be it from a well, creek, river or slough. We run straight water in our prairie tractors and drain when warm. We take them out once a year. Water is never red when draining. Sounds like a contradiction to my statement on anti freeze? My T doesn't leak. The prairie tractors pee on themselves constantly. We'd be a super fund hazmat site after the last 50 years! Have fun with your T!jesselashcraft wrote: ↑Thu Oct 21, 2021 6:09 pmThanks for the replies -
I stuck my hand in the sample I drew yesterday and couldn't feel any oil on my skin so that's a load off. I'm surprised this happen just over the summer. I didn't expect that to happen in 3 or 4 months.
Yeah, I intend to drive it more next summer. There are still a few things I need to sort out and I wouldn't want to drive it any further from home than I would care to push it back. We pulled it to get it started after dragging for 1/2 mile with the plugs out. It started in about a 10 or 15 foot pull. It ran cool even on the first days drive. But it's still stiff to crank. Sometimes, I can get it started on the battery. I crank it right up until I feel a heart attack coming on and it either starts or I quit. I probably should have put a starter on it when I had the chance.
I'll post some pictures when I get the fenders and running boards on to suit me.
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- Posts: 1182
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:27 am
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Codman
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Youring
- Location: Naples, FL 34120
Re: This doesn't look right to me.
I agree with Scott Conger. My '27 has a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and water. Cooling is not an issue, in fact it wouldn't bother me if it ran 10 degrees warmer. If a antifreeze/water mixture (as opposed to straight water) will make the difference between running at a proper temperature and overheating, your cooling system (or perhaps fuel/air mixture or spark system) needs service.