Taking up the rods
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 3
- Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2021 11:25 pm
- First Name: jeffrey
- Last Name: delancey
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Runabout
- Location: Easton
Taking up the rods
I have a model T that had the engine entirely rebuilt. It now has about 4000 miles on it and it developed a slight knock on #2 cylinder. Should I just take up that cap, or all four? Thank you
-
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:57 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Hunter
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Geelong Tourer
- Location: Blue Mountains, Australia
- Board Member Since: 2002
- Contact:
Re: Taking up the rods
My first thoughts are why it has started to knock so soon. In the modern day, bearing adjustment should last a lot longer than that. Looking at the bearing surfaces should give a clue. If the babbit looks good, it might be worth checking the roundness of the crankshaft.
One car I know of which had its engine 'rebuilt' required frequent bearing adjustment because of an out of round crankshaft.
One car I know of which had its engine 'rebuilt' required frequent bearing adjustment because of an out of round crankshaft.
-
- Posts: 4071
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: Taking up the rods
If it was really "rebuilt", the crankshaft would either be new or turned to round. I would suspect the knock is either a crooked rod, which could cause the rod to move fore and aft, or would cock the piston slightly. Or it could be too tight a wrist pin. If it is the actual rod bearing, then it was either not completely lapped in at the time it was rebuilt or the radius at each end of the bearing was not cut to match the curve of the crankshaft. One more thing. The babbit was not poured correctly.
Norm
Norm
-
- Posts: 6431
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: Taking up the rods
Not every T engine rebuild is a holy resurrection out of a well-known builder's shop and some rebuilds absolutely can start to knock at this kind of mileage. Twisted rods knock from the beginning...not after 4K miles.
Jeffrey
do some searches on the MTFCA forum on taking up rods. When you finally pull the inspection plate, you will find all 4 will slide back/forth on the crank with ease. When adjusted, they should still move with persuasion, but not easily by hand...again do some research. The T-1 Ford Manual from all of the suppliers should be in your bookcase and it explains the job in detail. You're doing the right thing by taking care of this now.
Jeffrey
do some searches on the MTFCA forum on taking up rods. When you finally pull the inspection plate, you will find all 4 will slide back/forth on the crank with ease. When adjusted, they should still move with persuasion, but not easily by hand...again do some research. The T-1 Ford Manual from all of the suppliers should be in your bookcase and it explains the job in detail. You're doing the right thing by taking care of this now.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured