MTFCA Forum

5 years ago I started perfecting the stock ignition system on my 14. Previous T's all had distributors.
I tried various timers & selected the New day. In the process of mutilating the timer rod to get the proper advance range. (Especially with the variability of new day brushes) I Came up with this design.
Its parentage came from an accessory, adjustable overriding foot throttle rod already on the T.

The new rod mounts easy & allows for the perfect adjustment for advance & retard range. I set mine to the upper limit of advance, but no over advance @ about 2/3. This gives extra retard to help in slowing & braking.
The need raised its head again this weekend for a customer that over advances the spark lever with a new day. This one is set so it cant be over advanced.

Construction: The rod is 7/32"(.218) drill rod bent & cotter pin hole per an original. Make the rod 3/4-1"+ longer @ the link end.
The connection is made from 1/2" rod, 1" long. Barrel ends up 1/2" x 1/2" with a .221-.228 clearance hole low toward the .218 stem that fits into the lever. Center tapped 1/4-20 with a square head set screw.(period correct)

Setting: Set any piston 15 degrees past TDC. (crank pin 15 degrees beyond horizontal.) Set lever full retard. Retard timer body. Switch on to battery. Slowly advance the timer body until you hear a coil buss. Lock the set screw. Try the range & tweek for your preference. Dont take away from retard for safety sake.

The same modified type rod can be made for the throttle rod. I expect this would solve the problem of having to bend the carburetor throttle lever to get full travel, as well as when mixing short/long throttle lever linkage arms with a mismatched carb.

My gift to those that have the capability of building for yourself.
This might be a good item to add to ones stable of useful accessory products. This is not something I will be producing outside of
local & personal needs.
Tim M., you have my blessing, if you think it a feasible item(s) to produce.

Great idea and write up John.
If I might add to ….”Set any piston 15 degrees past TDC”, it should be on the compression stroke. If you set at 15 degrees past TDC on the exhaust stroke your results won’t be the same. Just wanted to clarify for first timers.

PS-On both my Model T’s if I advance the timing too much in relation to engine rpm’s the rear view mirrors start to vibrate where I can’t see anything!

I love that idea. Great job.

Actually, Michael, it doesn't matter "exhaust" or "intake". I put quotes there because for ANY ATDC, there is SOME cylinder trying to fire...you don't care if it's #1, 2, 3, or 4. Two pistons are up and two are down. One UP piston is at top of exhaust/beginning of intake, and the other UP piston is on the power cycle (and that's the one which will buzz and you simply adjust the timer CW/CCW until you JUST have contact at 15 degrees ATDC and lever at full retard.

If you're worried about doing it on #1, it by golly better be the same on any! "Modern" timing in the 1960's drives to believe #1 is the golden cylinder, but on a T, it really matters not.

Makes sense! Thanks….
PS-I Now wonder why the directions for the Snyder’s Timing rod states using 15 degrees after TDC on the compression stroke?

I have two stock 1913 cars, with New Day timers on both. I'm using the original Ford linkage on both and see no need to make modifications.

Original Smith wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 26, 2021 12:01 pm

I have two stock 1913 cars, with New Day timers on both. I'm using the original Ford linkage on both and see no need to make modifications.

Knowing you, I bet you started with perfect NOS rods, "original ford linkage" not re-bent a dozen times or repop units. You may also have the better, more correct new day timer brushes. NOS!!! This mod fit the bill & added some fine tuning that might have been attainable with a lot more patience, time, or intelligence on my part for my 14. I didnt consider using my only one nos rod. Its a sacred pattern.
The timer rod on this most recent car was so mangled, It wasnt worth the time to fix.

Great idea. I've about ruined the rod on my car after juggling timer parts and having to adjust the timing. The rod gets kinked and work hardened easily.