Working on someone else's car. Recent rebuild with roughly 2000 miles on it. He lost babbitt in number one rod. Ordered new rod and I came over to replace. Looking at other rods I found this on number three and four. I plastegauged number 3 and it was .0015.
Number two was .0020. removed one shim and was .0015.
Looking at this and knowing number three was still at .0015 would you say they were too tight to start? If not what caused it to wear like this. Says he never ran it low on oil.
Mic-ed the crank and it is round and not egg shaped. The crack was turned when he had the engine rebuild. The guy that turned the crank had done numerous for me in the past.
Thoughts
Help reading connecting rod caps
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
- Posts: 2345
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:25 am
- First Name: Dave
- Last Name: Hanlon
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 24 Touring car
- Location: NE Ohio
- MTFCA Number: 50191
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: Help reading connecting rod caps
The rod bearing surface is not chamfered on the ends properly and also no oil hole for a dipper.
-
- Posts: 796
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:14 pm
- First Name: Joseph
- Last Name: Andulics
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Fordor, 1926 Truck, 1927 Roadster GOW, RAJO Sprint car
- Location: North Ridgeville, OH
- MTFCA Number: 9766
- Contact:
Re: Help reading connecting rod caps
What Dave said, no oil reservoir, almost looks like a rod setup for oil pressure?
-
Topic author - Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Brian
- Last Name: Healey
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 touring, 1915 Canadian touring 1915 roadster boat tail speedster
- Location: Barneveld NY
Re: Help reading connecting rod caps
You don't need oil hole for dippers if you don't run dippers but can you explain more what you mean chamfered? Rods were new babbited bought from one of the main suppliers
-
- Posts: 561
- Joined: Wed Jun 17, 2020 1:41 pm
- First Name: Kevin
- Last Name: Matthiesen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 26 T Coupe, 16 T Open Express, 21 TT Flatbed. 15 T Roadster, 13 & 25 T Speedster , 51 Mercury 4 door sport sedan, 67 Mercury Cougar
- Location: Madera CA 93636
- MTFCA Number: 11598
Re: Help reading connecting rod caps
Check your replacement rod and compare. The rod parting half’s should have chanfers and if the rod has a hole drilled in the web it should be drilled threw to crank pin. If the cap is not drilled for dippers then the rod and cap would not be X’ed. Also check that your oil line is not plugged up if the hogs head or timing cover is off. Install a outside oil line and / or inside extra oil line if you haven’t already done so.