MTFCA Forum

Trailer tiedowns. For some reason I cannot find this doing a forum search, and it has been some time since I pulled a car trailer, how do folks tie down a model T on a trailer? I will be transporting a 1924 roadster on an open trailer. Plan to do it with the top down, and leave the hood, seat cushion, and floorboards in place. Recommendations?

There are various opinions as to best way to tie down. So I will just say a few things about the way I do it, and have had no problems.
Your hook latches should hold the hood tight to the sills. and if there are no screws in the floorboards, either remove or place something heavy on them. I usually put a gallon of water on the floorboard and it seems to work fine. If you don't have anything under the front seat except the gas tank, you might also consider removing the cushion, or also placing something heavy on the seat. I leave the seat in and so far haven't had any problem. I did have a top blow loose around the tacks. Be sure to use a boot on the top or tie with several bungie cords to keep the top in place.

Considering the axles. I do not like to put any ties around center of the axle or the differential pumpkin. I place the straps at the ends of the axles near the wheels. On the front wheels I place one strap on the axle next to the spring perch. This would be on the side away from the wheel but right next to the wishbone where the spring and wishbone are connected. On an older car with the above axle wishbone, it would be better to strap to the spring. I place the strap toward the same corner of the trailer as the spring perch. I have a rail all the way around the trailer, so the car would not slide sideways off the trailer. On the back I put the strap on the rear axle right next to the spring perch and also go to the corner of the trailer nest to the wheel. On longer tours where I will be pulling the trailer for many miles, I also put straps from the same points toward the center of the outside edge of the trailer on the same side. I put these straps from front to center and from back to center. That is not the center of the trailer but the center of the outside edge of the trailer same side. The reason for these straps is to pull the axles toward the center of the car so the ball joints won't slip out.
It might be over kill, but the car has never come loose nor have the ball joints slipped out. And the axles have not been bent.
Norm

Like oil and electronic timers, you'll get many responses and ideas. Here's what works for me. I actually use 2 of the heavy yellow straps. This was old pictures when I lost one! Hauled cars like this thousands of miles with no problems. The rear axle I just use two straps straight back. Chock the wheels, set the brake, pull the key!

Sorry for double pics. Crazy phone!

I Like Norms hints. Heard the pros & cons of the various tie down methods.
I hate the idea of putting a pull on axles, unless I am trying to pull a pushed wishbone mount back into position during the trip. Over cautious? Maybe, but not sorry. Otherwise.
23 & earlier frame corners only(pre diaper) front & rear. In my enclosed trailer, rear frame nearly straight down, chained with a load binder. Straps added outward as a safety redundant. Front frame corners wide, but, clear tires. Tight.
Post diaper- inside wish bone with lightest necessary tension. & add at least one backup strap. chocks front & rear. (12" 4x4's with 2 perpendicular 12" 1x4', mounted under the 2 ends. They have never moved)
If/when I go long distance or mountain routes, I will strongly consider removing the diaper for transport In the "pre diaper tie down state."
I will listen for a better way.

I once saw a nice 1912 with its windshield wrecked by being hauled on an open trailer at freeway speeds. There is no law requiring me to drive fast. So when hauling a T on my little trailer I observe a 55 mph speed limit. This makes wind damage very unlikely and keeps my gas hog Suburban's mileage from descending into single digits.

I am content to trailer with long straps used with short axle straps, I cross strap front to rear. My 2 enclosed cargo trailers have had floor pockets installed. By cross strapping front to back I am not pulling the front axle & wishbone out of the "socket" in the oil pan. Straps are tight, but not over tight so as to not pull extremely hard on the axles. This trailer is a 2016 Alumia 7x14 cargo extra height for clearance of the windshield of our open express. I have another enclosed trailer that goes from New York to Florida in the wintertime, that is a 7x16 Snapper extra height also, half the quality at half the price but it works. That being the white trailer & the Homemade pickup we cruise Florida with. I also have an open trailer that we have used to trailer with, have gone as far as Central NY to Virginia, less drag to tow with but a pain as everything that can get loose needs to be secured or removed & placed in the back of the truck, when needed we cross strap front to rear also. George

That is also true about the windshield. For the pre-1922-1923 with the windshield with top fold down, fold down the top section of the windshield. On the later windshield type, sometimes it is best to push the top windshield section back against the steering wheel. If it should suddenly be pushed back by the wind it could break the glass.
Norm

Thanks everyone, just what I wanted to know. I pick up the new roadster tomorrow.

DanTreace wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 29, 2021 1:38 pm

Haul on open trailer a lot. But had cover made to fit over the open car compartment, covering the top boot too. If your top is folded down, consider adding a top boot, or at min. several bungee cords to restrain that top cover from becoming a parachute behind you!

Same deal with straps, I cross them, on the axles, front and rear, for side control. Like to let the T's springs provide some cushion to the car along with the trailer's torsion axles. Anchors at front wheels, and brake on and key out!

Agreed! It is so easy to forget about the folded down top. Securing it before it becomes a parachute is the best was to avoid a costly or time consuming appolstery repair.

Andy

The one thing I can add is this, there is nothing at Harbor Freight that is sufficient for tying down your car. I get the tie down set from speedway motors, replace them every few years.


Andy

Don't forget protective parking; lockable hitch; some 3 or text ID on top of enclosed trailer.
Tie Down methods
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1437525215
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1469490620

Every time this question comes up - and it does a lot...I can only say 2 things: open T’s on an open trailer either turn the upper windshield horizontal or fold the upper earlier windshield down. If transporting an early T with a bulb horn on an open trailer......REMOVE THE RUBBER BULB
Don’t ask me how I advise this

However you secure the load... REMEMBER... load your trailer with at least 10% of the load FORWARD!!

Jeff,

I have made four steel hold downs with 2" wide by 3' long straps that have two 6" side flaps (2" on main strap & 2" bent down at 45 degrees at each side to hold main strap over each tire. The ends are drilled to attach S hooks for the chains and tie downs. My trailer has floor hold down rings to secure the T. This allows the T suspension to let the car move as you travel over bumps reducing stress on parts.

Best of luck,

Dom

Thanks everyone. Some very good suggestions. I am now trailering my new to me T home. Did the criss cross straps method with the front wheels against the Jelf stop. Speeds below 45 mph. Floor boards and seat cushion removed, and top down and tied up.

Just make sure you take several pictures before unloading.
Might not mean much now, but will mean a lot in a few years.

I spent many years hauling race cars around the US Northeast. I would never tie down a car by the axles. Ever. I use two tiedown straps front and rear and use the outer front crossmembers and crisscross the front straps. I grab the frame on either side of the center spring mount and attach the straps to an attaching point in the center of the trailer's floor. This prevents the body from flopping all over the place. Some will disagree with this, but it has worked for me foe more then 50 years. I also would not tow a Model T (or any car of that vintage) on an open trailer at speeds over 50 MPH.

Success! Thanks for the advice and recommendations.

I like that T! Is it new to you???

Yes, new to me, I am the third owner. In storage since the 1950's. Complete, correct, and unmolested.

Were balloon Tires an option in 1924?

Baloon tires were not an option in 1924, and the roadster pictured on the trailer has 30x3.5 clincher wards riverside tires.

Would it be worthwhile to remove the windshield on a 26 touring car? Either just the glass, or the entire frame? I'll be towing from Kansas to Ohio with a uHaul car trailer.

130
Is this an open trailer? If it is, just push the top section against the steering wheel and tighten. This is to keep it from suddenly slamming into the wheel and breaking the glass. Also put something heavy on the front floor board so it doesn't raise up.
If it is a closed trailer, will it fit in with the windshield? If so, just leave in place. If it won't fit with the windshield, be sure the steering wheel fits in or you have bigger problems. To remove the windshield you will need to remove the upholstery panel inside the cowl and take off the nuts. The entire windshield will come off. The posts are as tall as the windshield so if it won't fit with the glass the posts won't fit either.
Norm

Norm,

Thanks for the reply, I’ll probably just do that with the windshield then. It is an open trailer, so based on the previous comments I was thinking of taking the floorboards and seat cushions off and putting them in the tow vehicle. I’m not sure if there is a top boot, but I will also be paying a lot of attention to making sure the top is secured and not catching any wind.

Matt,

An option to consider would be for you to purchase a roll of shrink wrap and wrap the folded top to protect it while towing the car.

Best of luck,

Dom

That was going to be one of my options. I’m also going to bring a lot of 550 cord and bungees.

Thanks