MTFCA Forum

Sent my T into Sleeping Beauty Mode to wait for spring for at least five month from now.

Same here. The Torpedo (sans engine) & 13 touring put to bed for the winter. Stanley the Fordor gets the warm house garage as I will still be driving him awhile...including this coming Monday when its a balmy 62!

I pulled the motor out of the '22 Coupe to check things over. It seemed to get a little tight so I wanted to see if perhaps I have a babbit issue. While it's out I'll probably swap out some transmission drums that are scored and worn. Good winter project but I still have the '27 Touring to run around in. I run my cars all year round.

As I mentioned last week on the October thread; I bought two of the 2728 APCO Sspring loaded ball caps. Well yesterday I installed one on the right side of the drag link but then I read about a wholly acceptable alternative expressed by Royce describing concaving a penny and inserting it with grease inside the factory 2728 on the pitman arm. Now I have a spare APCO ball cap to use on another T.

I’ve used these on three Model T’s and they work quite well. They have a curved cut out on one side to fit the ball to arm area. Yes, They are spendy but they fit perfectly and what is the price of a safe front end?

I’ve been looking at that natural finished steering wheel for 25 years but now I found an original rim. The natural rim had a plain spider so I used it with the original rim and put a later script spider in the natural one. The black one wil go on my 14 and the other on a speedster.

Freshly rebuilt engine set in the frame all that remains to do is everything else......

Engine removed from my ‘13 runabout for freshening up and the addition of a starter.

It is interesting that some clean for a week before taking pictures to post and others, well you know. They say that a clean and tidy garage is a sure sign of a sick mind. I must be only partially sick, right in the middle. It is hard to clean up every time you are in the middle of a big job. I must be just a nother sicko, Frank

Sarikatime wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 04, 2021 3:08 pm

It is interesting that some clean for a week before taking pictures to post and others, well you know. They say that a clean and tidy garage is a sure sign of a sick mind. I must be only partially sick, right in the middle. It is hard to clean up every time you are in the middle of a big job. I must be just a nother sicko, Frank

Frank, I got the cleaning gene……my sister got the shopping gene!

I removed the 1909 sized steering wheel from my 1916 coupelet and installed a correct one, which was given to me by a friend in the Tacoma Model T Club. I then moved the coupelet ahead in the garage, put Stabil in the gas tank, and put the car up on jackstands for the winter. I then drove my 1936 Packard convertible sedan in behind the T. I just painted the Packard body and now have room for painting all the Packard parts that are off the car.

I pulled the side curtains, winter front, and hood blanket out of storage and installed them on Betsy, my 1924 cut-off touring today.

I have another video in the Speedster Rebuild. Here's the link if you'd like to see what is going on! https://youtu.be/XoAPmiV_teA

After a nice little 40 miler to end the season, while draining the oil I pulled the tires/hub assemblies getting them ready for paint and then off to Calimer's wheel shop for some new wood.

Enjoy the extra hour sleep tonight as day light savings ends

The Model T parts vendors that I called were out of front inner wheel bearings. I dug deep into the bowels of Google and found a bearing supplier in south Florida. The Timken 14120 was listed on their website but they were also out of stock. I called them on Monday and the manager said he would look for one for me. He sent me a text on Wednesday with a photo of the bearing and mailing label with my name on it. He asked if I still wanted it. DUH! It arrived on Friday. I finished assembling my new front axle and I will install it next weekend. The supplier was

www.rodavictoriaUSA.com

Installed new spindle bolts and bushings then took the machine for a nice 2 hour ride. Did just as good on the road or through the woods.

Cleaning out my NH.

DROVE IT! Took a leisurely tour out in the country with Art. Great afternoon. That leisurely tour was 70 miles for me, bit less for him as I live further out. Hoping to do one more tomorrow...think the weather will shut us down after that.

Got started on blasting my hood former. The paint was easy, but the Bondo under it was mighty slow going. I finished about two thirds of the front, and should be done with blasting tomorrow, weather permitting.

Well, I didn't get all the blasting done on that hood former, but I did finish the top center around the hole for the hood rod. It seems that originally it was just a hole in the sheet metal without any reinforcement, so eventually it got wallowed out through use. I hope I've stopped that from happening again on this one.

The repair starts with a small sheet of brass with a hole in the center clamped on the back side.

You can see considerable space between the brass and the wallowed-out steel of the hood former. That was formerly filled with Bondo.

It ain't pretty, but it's in a place that will be out of sight. I''m pretty sure it won't some loose.

The hole is formed by brazing in a piece of tubing and filling in the space around it with body solder.

The next step is cutting off the tube, leaving the hole surrounded by solder.

Here it is after grinding and buffing. This poor old thing is beyond orange peel. It's the pits.

When I removed my firewall I encountered the inconvenience of spinning carriage bolts. So today I set about repairing the bolt holes.

I got one hole a little lopsided, but as long as it's square that doesn't matter. I have a little more work to do on both holes.

Changed the freeze plug thats been leaking a while on the 26 rpu, put fuel stabil in the gas, started it up, changed the oil. Rebuilt a carb for my 26 coupe I havent worked on in 3 years. Going to make progress on it this winter.

Finally got the Fronty engine back from the shop.
Time to start working on the speedster again!

Keith, That is a beast. Hopefully you can find long enough bungee cords to hold the hood down!

What shop did you use?

Did a practice pour on block front main, a lesson on what not to do. Luckily using old babbitt for practice. Sorry, did not have my camera with me, really didn't have time anyway. So I will let you guys guess what happened.

Sharp eyes may have noticed my son's topless T at the Old Car Festival. Some of my tie downs didn't have safety hooks and my son's car with stacked top touched the ramp door and cracked the cast iron brackets fastening the top to the car. I did the fixtures for the repair and my son did the welding using nickel rod. My wife stopped by and put the upholstery back together. She installed the Carter kit years ago and told my son it's her job. He did do the stretching and holding part of the work and didn't complain about misplaced tack hammer blows. My son got a new set of color matched tie downs with snap hooks for his birthday so I don't think there will be a recurrence.

I've been accumulating parts and plan on replacing the top on my '16. It's close to forty years old now and brittle. the top pads are similarly falling apart. As I was the one who installed the top originally, I'm realizing I'm not a kid anymore. I plan on using Classtique again due to demonstrated customer service.

I'm also picking away at my '26 Runabout. My wife won't leave so I'm reluctant to resume painting the front fenders and hood to complete this car. She accuses me of trying to poison her whenever I paint in the attached garage. I'm still waiting for a reply from Cartouche as I'm having problems installing their top kit without instructions. With any luck, this car will be at OCF 2022 along with my newest grandchild.

My friend John brought his toddler grandson and let him sit in my cars. We both believe we need to get the kids interested early. He likes to show the lad Model T's as he sometimes gets bored with John's Model A.

I guess my post should be what did Corey Walker do with my Model T in November. He did a beautiful job of rebuilding the two screw Holley H1 carburetor for our 1911 T restoration project. Here is a before and after picture:

A "T" transmission for a friend.
Picture 1 shows some of the small parts to the transmission puzzle.
Picture 2 is an adapter I made in 2000 to support the flywheel during removal and installation of triple gear pins.
Picture 3 is the pilot wheel arbor press I used to install new pin part way.
Picture 4 I am using a hyd. press to finish the install, making sure the pins are below the surface where the magnets rest.

More T transmission for a friend.
Picture 5, new pins installed ready for triple gears. Triple gears with new bushings fitted on the lathe.
Picture 6 is of an Allen 6 volt magnet charger.
Picture 7 is of the test weight.
Picture 8 is of the final test, this magnet is good to go.

Steve, I had a similar problem with my 1915 tourer. I bronzed a 1/4" thick steel disc behind the hole, and the filled the depression in the front with bronze. When it came time to fit the hood, I found it fitted much better if I allowed the centre hinge rod to dictate that it wanted to be a little off centre and a little high, so that's where I drilled it.

Allan from down under

Magnets installed and checked with KRW guage. Also static balance.

Bought this non-running 27 tudor barn find last November and finally got to drive it out of the garage and back in. This was my first time with a T. And the first time actually driving a T. It does have a learning curve!

Pulled it out of a shipping container and brought it home. I also broke the sediment bulb, and drained the gas and oil that had been sitting in it for who knows how long.

NY John T wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 22, 2021 2:39 pm

Bought this non-running 27 tudor barn find last November and finally got to drive it out of the garage and back in. This was my first time with a T. And the first time actually driving a T. It does have a learning curve!first drive.jpg

John, If you put more than 2-3 pounds extra air in the tires you’ll need a new garage door.

Started changing front wheel bearings and changing to wire wheel hubs, was all set , cones, check, bearings inner and outer, check. With thanks to a forum member for selling me the inner bearing that have dried up. Passenger side old bearing feel apart when I removed the wheel but was only showing minimum movement until I backed off the hub nut (bearing was old Timken), driver side was solid and bearing is Ford script. Anyway the surprise was the collapsed inner bearing, spindle (pictures below) now in the pile for scrap, other side is good. replaced king pin and bushings on right side, tomorrow I will do the other side king pin and bushings. Did the rear bearings, liners, seals and hubs with small drums a couple of days ago.
Take away from this, if you are told " I did them a few years ago", CHECK for yourself.

Looks good now

I installed my front suspension last weekend. I hope that's the last time.

Yesterday, we took a walk after dinner to show my 2-year-grand nephew my Model T. He promptly and enthusiastically exclaimed "It's a Choo Choo Train Car!".

Finished. Gary in MN.

Shortening B crank to fit a T

I drove it to the museum for two hours today. Then returned home a few minutes after 4:00 PM. I brought down a flannel shirt, but only a T shirt was worn. It was about 67 on the porch when I got home. The car ran very well. On one hill I could get a good run and went up in high without the Ruckstell. It did not lug. This is a test hill for me. With me alone it goes up in high with a good run before ascending, however with passengers, I have to use Ruckstell.
Norm

Spent the Thanksgiving weekend with our friends from the Living Legends of Auto Racing at the Daytona Turkey Run. (at ~2:14)

https://www.facebook.com/turkeyrun/vide ... 381453905/

Estimated 6000+ vehicles in the infield again this year. We were not the oldest Ford there - saw a 1909 and a ‘12 in the field.

I was continuing to work on installing the top on my ‘26 Runabout. I bought a kit twelve years ago and stupidly did not go with Classtique. After watching Elizabeth’s video, I have concluded that my kit has the wrong instructions as I see no way to install the weather front the way they state as it will interfere with the front bow clamps. Elizabeth’s way works but the directions on my kit say otherwise.

I emailed the Florida outfit that sells this kit and the automatic email response told me to be patient and any repeat emails will reset my place in their queue. This was two weeks ago and I’ve yet to hear a reply.

So instead of finishing my top, I am switching my efforts to help my son with his Classtique upholstery. The lesson? Classtique from now on.

Assembled an L4 carburetor from parts I recently got from Hank Lee thru the classifieds and other parts I’ve had, then went for a test drive. Reinstalled the original L4 then went for another test drive.

1915 and a 1921 being rebuilt:100 plus years and counting, coming back to life.

Shout out to Steve Tomaso !! I had mentioned I was looking for a B Float for my Improved Ford. And he reached out with Two he could spare. They arrived yesterday and will be installed tomorrow. Thanks again Steve. Most grateful.

I know my T is in here someplace?????

I cannot remember what I did in November, that was three days ago. But yesterday, I winterized my car including the waterpump maintenance.

Art Mirtes

Minor maintenance to stop pesky leaks including neoprene seals on both ends of the gas line on the ‘25 plus a new seal on the oil drain plug. Also installed a new roller and timer body. Old roller had a very worn out soft spring….

Some of wood spokes on my 1924 Coupe were on the car when I bought it in 1976, some 45 years ago and have done many hard miles. One rear wheel I particular is getting very tired. So I made the decision to respoke the wheel. I could have bought spokes from one of our valued supplies but I decided to do them from scratch.
I purchased a chunk of hickory and cut it into twelve pieces. Next was the slow, sometimes boring part of cutting the necessary shape. I made simple wood tooling to get the shape similar on each spoke. I had cut the wood into 12” lengths, so I could make the 8” for 4.5” tires or 9” for the 3.5” tires, so there was a little more waste than I wanted. Never mind, it’s only money. Each spoke took about 45 minutes to cut and smooth out. Next was cutting the 15 degree angle at the center of the wheel. Fortunately I found my simple wood fixture that I made when I had the barn in Ramona, it didn’t get thrown out during downsizing. So all I had to do was to adjust the length as it had been built for 9” spokes. Now the twelve spokes should complete a circle. The final step is to press them into the feloe. For this I use a simplified version of the Regan Press, just a few 2x4 and a 1/2” threaded rod. Initially the spokes wouldn’t press in as they were fractionally too long so I trimmed off about 1/16” from the part that touches the hub. The second time they went in with a nice “click”. Now I have to find a Rocky Mountain brake drum and do a little painting. I’ll probably use the existing drum from the car so the switch over will have to wait until the Christmas tours are completed.
Making spokes almost free hand is very, very time consuming, so I have abut 15 hours in that wheel. However it feels much better than sitting in front of the tv

Very impressive job. I seems like getting the fit on the taper just righta and at the same rime getting the right fit at the hub OD.
I wish I lived nearby. I do woodworking, but making spokes is probably beyond my capabilities even though I would like to give it a try.

Art Mirtes

I made my first few spoke from an old length of 2x4, it easy to cut and costs virtually nothing. That how I came up with the fixtures. Ill post a few pictures of the tooling, it’s very simple and takes time. My methods are simple and slow, I’m sure the professional workers would say I’m on the road to bankruptcy if I did it for money.
This is my press This shows a completed wheel in the press The tooling to cut the 15 degree is the most complex Tooling to cut the 15 degree at the correct position (I tried to delete this photo but failed) Tooling to shape the spokes The spokes for the 4.5” tire wheels are 8 9/32”long and those for 3.5” tires just over an inch longer. The shorter spoke is one of my experimental versions made of pine, so easy to work. Previously I had used white oak which is as strong as hickory but not as flexible. When oak let’s go they shatter whereas the hickory is more flexible. Again the oak is easy to work compared to the hickory which tend to tear in the lathe. Yes I sharpened my tools before I started.

Would ash wood work. It is very strong. Because of the ash bore wiping out the ash trees in Ohio, ash limber is cheaper than firewood. Baseball bats are made from ash, I've been led to believe.

Your project is another example of how people like to spend their time with the hobby. Some like to polish brass others like to tinker to see what impossible jobs they can accomplish. I am a tinkerer.

Art Mirtes