MTFCA Forum

I’m going to be running Model A manifolds and a Marvel Schebler carb on my 27 TT. Does anyone have pictures of how they ran the linkage on an engine without the NH hole between cylinders 2 & 3? I’d rather not use a foot pedal and keep the column throttle lever. Thanks in advance!

Brad

Look @ carburetor/manifolds post. I posted a pix of a dual NH motor. It shows the linkage as you desire.
Bell crank on a head bolt. You will get the idea. Ignore or consider adding the foot throttle over ride. The throttle rod arm is an add on for a vaporizer set up. That bolt on arm is available thru Langs

Brad, if you go to a Model A-B-C manifold and carburetor, thoroughly read Bryant Shafer's Carburetor and Manifold post. A good point made in it, is that with a big change in air-fuel mixture requires or changes, too, if you don't want over carburetion response problems. As someone said, putting twice a T's original carburetion on a stock T engine is like putting a Holley four barrel carburetor on a lawn mower. To effectively utilize more fuel-air, you need a higher lift cam, bigger valves, or both, and other mods such a improved ignition, probably wouldn't hurt. I have made this swap before but returned my engine to stock and sold the Model B carb setup. Brad, I found the buyer's address and email (but not his phone number). I'll send it to you by the MTFCA message or email feature.

ModelTWoods wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 30, 2021 11:05 am

Brad, if you go to a Model A-B-C manifold and carburetor, thoroughly read Bryant Shafer's Carburetor and Manifold post. A good point made in it, is that with a big change in air-fuel mixture requires or changes, too, if you don't want over carburetion response problems. As someone said, putting twice a T's original carburetion on a stock T engine is like putting a Holley four barrel carburetor on a lawn mower. To effectively utilize more fuel-air, you need a higher lift cam, bigger valves, or both, and other mods such a improved ignition, probably wouldn't hurt. I have made this swap before but returned my engine to stock and sold the Model B carb setup. Brad, I found the buyer's address and email (but not his phone number). I'll send it to you by the MTFCA message or email feature.

Don’t worry I thought of the internals before I actually decided on the manifolds and carb. Inside I have a 280 cam, big head valves, Prus head, aluminum pistons and I polished over the rough edges of the intake and exhaust chambers. Since I rebuild coils, I decided to run this one with them. I recharged the magnets and put one of R. V. Anderson’s rebuilt mag coils on. We’ll see how that runs. May decide to add a distributor later but again, we’ll see. I figured if I did all the work on the inside I might as well give the manifolds and carb the best chance to breathe. I just got your email. Thanks!

Brad

Brad, you've made similar internal mods to what I had on my fordor. I'm glad to see you invested in those improvements. As for the linkage that I used; I used a modern "hot rod" cable linkage made by Lokar and available online or at most speed shops. The Lokar stainless steel cable has a end on the steering column end that fits the throttle lever on the throttle rod perfectly, without any alteration. The carburetor end of the cable has a clip type end that clips snugly on the ball on the carburetor throttle shaft of any stock Zenith A-B or C carburetor. The only modification or part needed that isn't furnished with the Lokar cable, is a simple metal bracket that I obtained at Lowe's (any hardware store will have them in the woodworking section). The bracket is needed to secure the outer stainless steel housing to keep it from sliding or moving with the inner cable. After enlarging two pre-drilled holes already in the bracket, the bracket is secured to the rearmost bolt of the water inlet on the driver's side of the motor. Since I had a 26 block with the hole already between cylinders 2 and 3, I routed the cable straight through the hole to the carburetor on the passenger's side and a short 24" length Lokar cable fit perfectly. On a vaporizer block without the pre-punched hole, you'll need to go around the back of the block, above where the hoghead bolts to the block, so you'll need a longer Lokar cable. A 36" length will probably do; If not a 48" length cable will for sure. Going around the back of the block has another advantage; more of the cable will be hidden out of sight. If you don't want the shiny stainless steel glaring at you, you can always paint the cable housing black.

Right side up is easier to see. Jim Patrick

Thanks Jim! That’s one thing that still plagues me.

Brad