MTFCA Forum

From my very little knowledge , master vibrator accessory units were plentiful in the very early days of the Ts. I believe they were used because of the poor reliability of stock units. If you have ever hooked up and used one, can you share? I’ll post pics of two different units, but think there are lot more examples. Here is the K-W unit.

Here is the J & B model ( Jacobson Brandow)

I have a couple of New York ones. Both probably could use new condensers.
They were popular because most of the early coils didn’t have “rebound springs” as part of the points, so they were really tricky to adjust!

Their purpose was to equalize individual coil performance. You’d adjust the 4 coil points together so they don’t buzz and allow the master vibrator to deliver equal spark to the spark plugs. So you won’t have an extra weak or extra strong coil. I have 2 different KW units. Both with instructions in their wooden lids.

Many thanks Tim. Your KW photo looks a lot like what I have, and this explains my coil question (coil for mine is likewise not the standard 13-17 style unit).

I'm using one of these for a 12 REO Model H, where that truck currently has the coil located under the seat. I'm going to use the Master box for the ignition key, so yes George, I will soon have a dashboard glovebox as well.
Regards,
SR

Interesting to note the Patent application date was March 3, 1908 and the patent rights were assigned by Huff to Henry Ford Detroit Michigan.
The final Patent rights were granted by USPTO on July 18, 1913.
Ron Patterson

John
No knives, just the facts.
As has been observed in the past multiple times on this forum, this type coil tester has no provision to see the time and space relationship of the coil spark output. That feature is critical to Model T Ford coil point operation.
Ron Patterson

Oops wrong place for my response.

Do these things have a capacitor inside, or do they rely on the capacitor in the trembler coil?

If they do have one, is it like the trembler ones?

I've run a couple. My concern was setting the mv unit to draw the correct amps. On the Kingston coils in the car, the correct draw was .2 amps if memory serves. RVAnderson has the correct specs.. I burned out a couple of my Kingston coils after setting the kw mv to draw 1.3 amps. Don't know if the kw mv amp draw was the culprit, but it caused a concern. Worried that the coils/caps in the Kingstons couldn't handle the increased amp draw.

I've run a couple. My concern was setting the mv unit to draw the correct amps. On the Kingston coils in the car, the correct draw was .2 amps if memory serves. RVAnderson has the correct specs.. I burned out a couple of my Kingston coils after setting the kw mv to draw 1.3 amps. Don't know if the kw mv amp draw was the culprit, but it caused a concern. Worried that the coils/caps in the Kingstons couldn't handle the increased amp draw.

Sorry for the double post

Could a regular KW coil be adapted for use as a master vibrator? Would it be necessary to remove the secondary, or could it be disconnected or grounded through a resistance?

My experience with master coils:

First these coils do not replace bad coils but make the coil setting for the four coils even.
On the early coils, without the cuchion spring, the four coils should be set togheter on a test stand.
Trying to set them coil by coil can be done but isn't that easy.

To use a MC you need to bridge the contact points on the four coils. Only the contact points (one set) does the buzz.

The MC is connected, one side on the battery, the other side on the magneto. The middle connection is connected to the coilbox current post.
The four coils are connected as usual to the timer.
As the timer grounds one coil the current flow is comming from the MC, the MC contact point to the current post on the coilbox, through the low tension coil, via the timer to the ground. The contact points will tremble and a spark will be generated by the high volt part of the ignition coil.
As the timer ground a other coil the current will follow the same way but through the coil that is grounded. The only differnce with a "normal" ignition is that there is only ONE set of points used for the four coils and the ignition will be even for the four cylinders.

In the past I rebuild a few MC and Try to find new contact points and change the condener by one available.
The best working coils (and easiest to rebuild) are the K&W MC.
To set the coils you must respect the setting needed for the original coils.

In My 1922 "Woody" I am running a K&W MC since 2012 for about 4.000 miles/ year and had no problems till now.
I start using it after someone challenged me on this forum in 2012. Not only I made the car run using a MC but it is still running with it.

I will try to post a few photos . (I maybe needed two post on the forum)

Questions?? you can always contact me byPM.

Andre
Belgium

next photos

Just forgot to tell: At the coils on the photos I took the under part of the contacts out to eliminate the flappering noice they made while running.

Just for the record, I always have a spare set of coils in the car togheter with the wires (2) needed to convert the ignition back to normal.

Andre
Belgium