MTFCA Forum

I just finished a re-build of a DB axle for someone. I took some photos of the process and tools involved. Its not meant to be an in-depth study of how to do it, but it covers the main points. Either I'm feeling my age, or I just forgot how much labor is really involved to do an axle the right way. Ill sleep good tonight ...

In case anyone wonders, I'm farmer Brown ... and I've been partial to DB axles and parts, since they chose to put my initials in a nice little oval circle on each axle or part.

Ill add some notes below as I think of things I should have noted, if anyone thinks of something I should add, just let me know:

1. When doing the file test, if the file will not cut. The axle yolks are either "work hardened" or were "case hardened" You will need to "anneal" the yolks by heating them with a torch till they just start to turn blue. Make sure to "polish" or "shine" up an area so you can see the yolk turn blue. Then let cool slowly. Then re-test with the file. If you do not anneal the yolks, you will destroy the tap and taper reamer. Also, do not forget the thrust washers on the tap and reamer. If you do not use them, the tap or reamer will "cut" back into the tool frame as it "cuts" forward into the axle. You can destroy your high dollar frame by forgetting the thrust washers.

2. When using the axle straightening tool to bend/twist the axle back to straight. You need to bend/twist it too far approx. the same amount it is bent or twisted. Then bend/twist it back to straight. If you do not over bend it, then come back to straight, the axle will tend to revert back to its original bent/twisted state.

3. Other than testing for bend/twist, all the repair operations can be done with these tools, while the axle is still in the car.

Notice the "counterbore" in the threaded insert. It is for the unthreaded portion of the spindle bolt to sit in. That way the unthread portion carries the shock load instead of the threads being beat out by the shock load of the car in use.

The tractor is holding down the table because you have to get fairly rough with the 4-foot-long axle straightening tool to straighten the twist out of the axle.

Yes, it is a LOT of work, which I think most people cannot appreciate without seeing the process

I am most jealous of your facing tool...I have been looking for that tool for years!

Good of you to take the time among your effort to document the process for others to see.

Scott. The facing tool is a "miracle tool" It's so hard to get those surfaces parallel without it. I have never seen another one in over 42 years of collecting Stevens tools.

The file test is most important.
Glad to see you showing that.
Next is the thrust washers. I have seen Stevens Frames destroyed by not using them.

Donnie,

Thank you for taking all these photos and the time to document your restoration. I understand your liking of Dodge Brothers stamped T parks. If my initials were DB I'd feel the same way too.

Happy New Year,

Dom

Dan and Jack. Thanks for the input. Since the man who makes the taps,reamers and inserts, as well as the man who makes the Stevens frames both say I explained it correctly, I must have did it right. Thanks guys

How do you know if your kingpins are inline and parallel to the spring perches?

Scott, With the spring perch's still in the axle it is not possible to use the other two rods in the spring perch holes. But I have found that it is very uncommon to be bent between the perch and the spindle. It is possible to wrap a string around the two rods near the top of the rods with the string on both sides of the rod and running parallel to each other. Then they can be used as a sight guide to see if the axle sits centered below the two parallel strings. If the "center" holes are present on the perches, they also make a good sight reference point. It is not as accurate as having all four rods installed. But its either remove the perch's and take a chance of damaging them or leave them in place and test with two rods. Unless the axle has been severely bent, I have found that the two rods are plenty good to use by themselves. If the perches are useable, I always leave them in place. If there is a slight misalignment, it is addressed after the axle is installed in the car and the spindle bolt inclination is checked. It is 5 degrees for1925 and earlier and 2 1/2 degrees for 26-27 Improved Models. The inclination angle is final adjusted with the big axle straightening tool by bending the radius rod. Bending the radius rod sounds very crude, but that's how Ford did it.

Thank you so much Donnie for this overview. Very informative and gives me great comfort and pride to know that you’ve put this much effort into the job. It’ll make the install very straightforward and simple. Thanks again.

I did not think about the center holes on the perches. That is a good thought! I have a couple of axles that I need to work on. The perches were already ruined by someone trying to remove them before I got them. One is bent quite bit, but maybe a bend between the perches is not that critical as long as they are in line with each other?

I was wondering how the different caster angles were determined. So, if someone changes out the wishbone, he may then have to bend the replacement to adjust the caster. Are the 26-27 wishbones different than the earlier ones?

Scott, I am 99% sure the 26-27 wishbones are different. Ill include a link to the "Improved Models a study of" threads I did a few years ago. It will show the discussion on the different angles of the wishbones.

and yes, to the changing of the wishbones and needing to re-check the caster adjustment. When this axle is installed, it will need the caster angle checked and adjusted as needed. There is no way I have found to have everything correct "on the bench" and be correct when installed in the car. The only way to change the caster is to use the big axle straightening tool and bend the radius rod. Sometimes we can get lucky, and it will be right when first installed or we can be un-lucky, and it has to be adjusted.

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