MTFCA Forum

Hi all,

My Ooga horn is iffy. Is there anything I can do about it? I either have to adjust the adjusting screw at the back in the picture a click or 2 up, run it then back down and exercise it some more and/or charge the battery. Suggestions appreciated.

I think you have a Sparton Ahoga Horn. There are several videos on you tube about repairing them . Maybe that will help. I had one and a little lubrication helped if I remember. Maybe this video might help. https://www.arcar.org/video-un31ggrtp5i

Those things need periodic lubrication. It may also need a larger size wire/switch to assure that it is getting enough current to start. A good ground is also essential.

You might consider a horn relay. The wire to the switch and the switch contacts are pretty flimsy.

Thank you, the video was helpful. It does indeed look like a Sparton Ahooga Horn. Mine also has no markings on it. I used synthetic clock oil on the shafts and felts. It seemed to improve quite a bit. I inherited a non-functioning grandfather clock and taught myself how to clean and lube them. One bottle is enough for a lifetime of clock lubes so it seemed suitable. Thanks again.

-- IV

You might also check/clean the brushes & polish the armature.

Oddly with time its performance deteriorated again. It was good and strong for about a week. Now it is back to variable. If I back the adjustor screw way out you can hear the motor running smoothly and evenly. There is no sound when you adjust it out. Then start adjusting it back on tighter the motor sound becomes variable. Adjust it some more and you may or may not get aooga sound or the motor will stick and no aooga or motor sound will come out.

The motor brushes may be dirty or worn out and/or the commutator may be dirty or oily. I'd also recheck all connections and switches. A loose connection might develop heat and gain resistance after the motor runs a short time. A switch can do the same. Badly worn motor bearings could be a problem, but I'd look for the above conditions. Most horns don't get enough use to wear out the bearings unless they've never been oiled.

Do you have the same problem when the engine is running with the generator charging? I have one on one of my cars and it works best with the engine running. You just need to clean up everything, lubricate and adjust. It must be loose enough to spin so you get the OOGA sound. Try adjusting with the engine running fast enough to charge the battery. Of course if you don't have a generator or alternator, then you will just need to keep your battery fully charged and adjust so it will operate without a generator.
Norm

A better solution for such a nice original car would be to "ditch" the Aaogha horn and get the original 'beep' 'beep' horn. Of course some people like you and I don't enter our cars in judging and have personal preferences. You obviously like the sound of the Aaogha horn, and that's your choice.

You might check for excessive voltage drop at the horn terminal when it begins to act up. With a 6 volt system, the voltage at the horn terminal with the horn operating should be around 5 to 6 volts. Excess voltage drop could indicate a switch or wiring problem or internal problems with the horn motor. The ooga horn probably uses more current than the stock '26-27 mashed goose horn did, and the stock T wiring and switch may be inadequate to operate it correctly.

There are 2 screws at the back cover pictured. The smaller one towards the engine seems to hold on the cover and level out the back support in a see-saw type way and the other bigger one closest to the camera seems to adjust it, somehow?. If I put the cover screw on all the way tight and adjust the err bigger adjuster it kind of works. There is voltage drop when it doesn't work. No voltage drop when spinning. If I put the cover screw on loosely it spins well but doesn't make sound. Confusing.

Check and assure that the horn 6 volts and not 12 volts

The armature could use a cleaning as well as getting the junk out between the segments. Check that both brushes have free travel & spring tension.

If the bearings are worn and allowing the armature to drag, the horn will not work as it should. Be sure the shaft is not bent.

How can I tell?

Altair wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 18, 2022 2:53 am

Check and assure that the horn 6 volts and not 12 volts

Hook it up to your modern car that's 12 volt - did it work before on 6 v. ? The original tag appears to be painted over but it would have stated the voltage & model normally.

There appears to be gunk that is probably conductive bridging from segment to segment of the motor. This bridge is shorting the motor, causing a heavy current draw to overcome it.

Thank you, it looks delicate, how do I clean the armature and segments without damaging it?

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 18, 2022 10:48 am

The armature could use a cleaning as well as getting the junk out between the segments. Check that both brushes have free travel & spring tension.

Use fine sandpaper on the armature - hold a piece with your finger and hand turn it. Looks as though there is a flathead screw holding in each brush so carefully loosen it and watch so see if the brushes start to release - there's a spring behind each brush so try & keep the work area confined so as not to have pieces fly out. There is spray electrical cleaner available at the auto parts store so squirt each brush & holder & reassemble - it's not a tough job BUT if you're uneasy about the task you can send it off to me & I'll inspect and clean it at no cost !

Received this back from RajoRacer who said: 'Most likely the dirty armature & sticky brushes'. It is now loud and proud! Looking forward to driving it to church and goosing it! Thank you so much!

One screw in the back holds the cover on, the other one adjusts the diaphragm. They are very sensitive and change dramatically with temperature. Oil the motor, clean the armature and it should sound fine.

It worked great for a Sunday drive a week ago then this Sunday it is back to iffy. The post that the wire is on is probably the problem. I wiggled it and it temporarily worked again. If I tighten down the bottom nut so the post is not wiggly it sparks but does not work at all. If I back off the bottom nut and make the post wiggly then it sometimes works. What should I do? I would like to avoid taking it all apart again.

Every time I read this post I keep thinking you say Olga is iffy and if she reads this post she ain't going to like it. Rudy

At this point, I'd say it is safe to say that Olga is becoming openly belligerent. The U.N., as always, is useless. As for the horn, it looks like the terminal post insulation is bad, and the internal connection to the post may be loose, corroded, or broken. Dis-assmbley will be required.

The cause is perhaps the insulating grommet at the positive terminal is frayed or gone now, so best to replace. The horn would have to be taken apart again. You could try to carefully remove the locking nut and try to stuff some string around it, but likely would just pull the terminal wire that is soldered inside away.


With electrical posts that have threaded terminals to attach leads, the first nut is the lock nut. That has to be held firm in position when you apply the lead wire, and when you apply the upper nut to secure the lead, otherwise the terminal can be separated.



BTW, your hot wire to that terminal using that plastic crimp lead has exposed wires, those could contact the horn cover and cause intermittent honks!



Yours seems to be a NorthEast horn.

IT was sure operating correctly when I sent it back - must be a "ground" problem either on the terminal posts (I checked the insulators) or the chassis ground ?

Thank you for the advice and help. I opened it up and crumbled insulator fell out. More than is shown in the last picture. Where might one obtain or create an insulator grommet for this?

Is a new Model A ahooga horn wire grommet this? https://tinyurl.com/ykptpjuk

I would head to your local ACE Hardware & check through the fiber washer assortment - you'll need 4 as they go on both sides.

Thanks, If using fiber washers what keeps the wire part going through the hole from possibly shorting on the rim?

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 20, 2022 4:14 pm

I would head to your local ACE Hardware & check through the fiber washer assortment - you'll need 4 as they go on both sides.

Heat shrink tubing.

Or liquid electric tape which I have already from a previous project? Say, I am looking high and low for hard felt washers on Lowes (I have one close by) and Ace (far away) websites but so far nothing. Any pointers are appreciated.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 20, 2022 5:09 pm

Heat shrink tubing.

So I found a rubber grommet at lowes and some #6 washers so I hope it works. I couldn't find any composite or hard felt washers.

We've finally come to the conclusion that there is an intermittent short in the motor winding. It isn't obvious where the short is. Does anyone know how this can be fixed?

Steve was able to locate and fix the intermittent short as well as replace all the grommets. I also have it grounded properly with the green wire and used a cone wrench to keep the grommet from having an issue. Loud and proud again. Now I have another one that I bought at Chickasha 2 years ago. It says 'Loud' and '$25' on it. Nothing comes out. The inside doesn't look the same as the other. There is no label on it. I tried it on 6v and 12v nothing. It does not spin. What is this horn and perhaps what might be wrong?

I don't know what brand it is, but I do know what's wrong with it...

Steve hasn't seen it yet