MTFCA Forum

It has been a while since I’ve posted here, but I can assure you that I always looked and read.
My question is: on a oil pan, should I use a gasket, or would permatex only suffice?
I am tired of making gaskets.
Robert Bente
Redding, Ca

Many here have much more experience with T motors/oil pans, but from many years in the fleet maintenance industry, I have found Permatex-the right stuff works very well in most oil containment applications.

You must use the proper thickness gasket as the pan to block sets an alignment for the ball cap/4th main.

Kerry wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 05, 2022 12:31 am

You must use the proper thickness gasket as the pan to block sets an alignment for the ball cap/4th main.

Use the ultra black/right stuff with the gaskets to insure sealing & needed thickness as stated.

Since there are always minor imperfections in the mating surfaces I always use the gasket and a very, very thin layer of black Permatex.

I think if I am going to all the trouble to straighten my oil pan to relieve all the stress off the crankshaft, I'm putting a gasket in there. JMHO.

I'd use both. Use the correct type of silicone, and the best quality gaskets you can obtain. Check the fit of the gaskets and adjust if necessary before putting on any kind of sealer. All joints in the pan should be carefully checked for looseness, leaks and cracks. If at all possible, the pan should be straightened in a jig before and after after any repair work.

Even with shipping, the gaskets are relatively inexpensive compared to the amount of work to make them. You don't have to buy a full set, you can buy them as needed. Metal to metal, the front cover needs to be centered to the cam shaft, without the extra thickness of the pan gasket, would make that a bit hard. Call Dave at Chaffin's, you should have them in a few days. http://www.chaffinsgarage.com/

Robert,
I need to understand your question a bit better.
Are you talking about the mating surface between the inspection cover(your 3 or 4 dip cover) and the pan, or the pan to engine block and hogshead?
I would add to the comments above, be careful how much silicone you use.
A local engine builder decided to eliminate all gaskets (except the head gasket) and replace them
with high quality gasket repacement silicone material.
The engine ran about 10 miles.
One large bead of silicone went into the oil pan and eventually flipped up into the center main
oil hole in the block. It blocked the oil supply to the center main and took that bearing out.
Harry Lillo
Calgary

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 05, 2022 10:09 am

Even with shipping, the gaskets are relatively inexpensive compared to the amount of work to make them. You don't have to buy a full set, you can buy them as needed. Metal to metal, the front cover needs to be centered to the cam shaft, without the extra thickness of the pan gasket, would make that a bit hard. Call Dave at Chaffin's, you should have them in a few days. http://www.chaffinsgarage.com/

Not to interfere with vendors business including Chaffin's, but last time a month or so ago I talked with Dave and it sounded like the next batch may not be til this spring. Sounded like the old machining was kaput, and new machining for these is in the works. But call him anyway, maybe you can enlighten us with any updates. I'd like to get one for my inventory.

I use both. The most critical area to seal is the area where the engine block, the hogs head and the crankcase come together. You should be very careful to tighten the bolts evenly so you don't crack the cast iron. Especially the bolts at the edge of the hogs head. There is a felt strip over the back of the engine where the hogs head fits to the block. That must be the correct thickness and be sealed well especially at the corner where the 3 gaskets come together.
As stated elsewhere don't use too much sealer so you don't get any into the engine or transmission, but use enough to fill any small void. I use a thin film of sealer on one side of the gasket and none on the other side. Before you install the engine into the car, turn the engine nose down and try the 45th main into the back of the transmission. Start the two bottom bolts into the crankcase and see if the 4th main will move in and out. If it fits without a bind, you can put the engine in the car.After you get everything together and the engine is running. Check for leaks. You can clean up the oil around a leak with laquer thinner and then spread a bit of sealer on the area. Try to force it into the area around the gasket. That will usually seal any leaks after the unit is assembled.
Norm

TWrenn wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 05, 2022 11:08 am

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 05, 2022 10:09 am

Even with shipping, the gaskets are relatively inexpensive compared to the amount of work to make them. You don't have to buy a full set, you can buy them as needed. Metal to metal, the front cover needs to be centered to the cam shaft, without the extra thickness of the pan gasket, would make that a bit hard. Call Dave at Chaffin's, you should have them in a few days. http://www.chaffinsgarage.com/

Not to interfere with vendors business including Chaffin's, but last time a month or so ago I talked with Dave and it sounded like the next batch may not be til this spring. Sounded like the old machining was kaput, and new machining for these is in the works. But call him anyway, maybe you can enlighten us with any updates. I'd like to get one for my inventory.

Good to know. lang's is pretty quick too, I suggested Chaffin's because they are close.

I only use sealer on the pan side of the gaskets, the top just gets a little grease, so things can move around a little as the gasket compresses. Has been working just fine doing it that way.

Upps...dummy me...I didn't read thoroughly enuf.. ..I was thinking head gaskets!! Pan gaskets should still be available. Sorry for my mistake!! Not wide awake when I read the thread I guess!