MTFCA Forum

I’ll start this for hints on rebuilding your Stromberg OF carb. PLEASE JUMP IN if you have any hints or advice. I’ve often advocated that these are very simple carbs. If you can take apart a simple lawnmower carb, these are a piece of cake. If you haven’t, there isn’t much to them and I’d encourage you to get your hands dirty. Nothing better than a sense of accomplishment with model T ownership.
Now, I have never rebuilt an OF carb. So, hoping lots of people that have can chime in with their hints. I have rebuilt and restored several RF Stromberg carbs, which were the pinnacle of improvement and the follow up to the OF. They are also a bit more complicated. So, still the same animal.
I’m posting the first two as hints for the recent parts I’ve made and started to send out. Instead of sending individual notes to everyone, I thought this would be simpler.
Perhaps other will have improvements on a couple of my suggestions, and I’m always glad to learn something new or someth8ng I hadn’t thought about.

Adjusting this piece. The stop screw can have a small nut on it to keep it from moving, but originally one end of the threaded bracket was tweaked just a bit to act as a lock. Just a slight bend. The very slight shift of one of the threaded holes will keep the screw in place and set.

Instead of reaming the hole in this piece to finished size, I left it just a tad under size. The brass shoulder screw that is on the carb is sometimes worn under size, so I thought it may be better to fit the shoulder screw TO the metal arm, instead of visy versy.

Saw this posted on model t Ford Facebook site. What a great display piece. I’ve seen it posted here years ago.

I’m feeling pretty lonely here.

Mine is still bolted to my motor. I have rebuilt a few 1940s tractor carbs and I was the goto on Rochester 2-jets back in high-school. I was a bit intimidated thinking about the day I get around to cracking it open, but with all of the knowledge on this forum, I have been less so. Not the guy with the tools to recreate parts or even rebush, but there is always the future to look to.

Interesting that the complete set up used the Ford hot air pipe and the hot spot chamber….

Michael, I’m not sure how accurate the sales display is now. It has a ( copper) plumbing fitting where the air valve would go, and also missing the choke cable clamp. I’d bet the original would have the steering column choke control displayed also. I’m not picking it apart, and only wish it was hanging on my wall!

I’m watching Tim, just don’t have anything to add.

One question, how is the OF with hand cranking?

Andy

Andy, With two expensively, extensively repaired shoulders, I’m not the one to ask. If my T doesn’t start, I’ll call AAA. Hopefully someone will answer that.

I sent an incomplete OF to Stan Howe to be rebuilt. While it was away I purchased a push/pull choke cable at a clearing sale. It was made for a T because it had the diamond shaped mounting bracket for the T steering column, so I thought it would do for my OF.

When Stan sent the carb back it came with copies of the books Tim posted and some extra instructions from Stan. Imagine my surprise when page 5 of the Stromberg manual showed my choke cable assembly. Apparently, it is the later, perhaps simpler, version of the one Tim manufactures for OF users.
I have since found a second one, with a bracket to go round a round steering column.

Allan from down under

Here is a photo of the choke control in Stan's manual. Perhaps it will alert others when they see one.
Allan from down under.

A couple enthusiasts I know are working on their OF carbs this winter. I’ve permission to post some PIcs with questions. So, if you’ve been into one of these desirable carbs, feel free to jump in with hints and advice.

That doesn’t appear to me to be a “ very simple carb” or “a piece of cake” Tim but thanks for stirring discussion on this topic.

You seldom see them 100% apart, which I thought would be quite helpful. You are welcome to stroll on by George, and I really don’t understand the need for the commentary.

Info added from discussion in the classifieds. Size and modern source of sealing screws.

Tim, My “commentary” you don’t seem to understand simply refers to my perceived view of a very intricate carburetor. You characterized the Stromberg OF as a “very simple carburetor” and “a piece of cake”. I admire your ability at restoration of this particular carb and reiterate my thanks for for your contribution in this thread.

Tim here’s one I started doing a while back is this the needle you are asking about

Can’t get it to post

Thanks Randall, I believe that will help him. Appreciate the effort. He has a lot of other questions written on his pics posted above, if anyone wants to help, he would appreciate it. Thanks!

Tim, have you told the fella with the great pics that the float doesn't care if it's upside down or otherwise?
In my updraft M-series world, if the float doesn't have any deviations on the flat ends, It's all good either way. VERY similar.
Sorry, I'm enjoying these photos.

I haven’t told him anything, as I’ve never been into one of those. So, really appreciate the feedback. I’ve been hoping for more, but I’m sure he appreciates your comments, too.

Here’s what I was referring to and hopefully adding small info. Floats.
The gentlemen questioned which end is UP on the float. USUALLY doesn’t matter.
I ran into one Stromberg #1 float that had a deviation on a bottom-end surface.
Float 1. Part of the surface is “caved in” so NOT a good end to be on top for the needle counterweight levers.
Float 2 Top. Nice flat surface with the smallest of deviations so when the float turns like they do, it’ll work the same. Look for marks or solder on the float end surfaces.
The pic of the “bottom?” of the float shown above APPEARS to be quite flat so also a good end to be on top.
#1 float dimensions are 2“ wide and 1-19/32“ tall. There may be slight stamping/manufacturing differences.
I’ll stay my fingertips on other thoughts. This I will say, take the economizer out of the equation and they are very simple carbs and that intrigues me. Giovanni Venturi and Henri Pitot helped them work.
Neat thread!

Thanks Duane, hope he’s following. I expect so. I’ve had another inquiry about the small choke spring. Anybody have them available, shout out! He needs two, but I’d expect there are others interested.

Here ya go, Scott has the choke springs. Things of beauty. He who hesitates is lost!

There was a discussion awhile back about mounting holes that have been drilled or wallored out. Helicoils work dandy, an easy fix. Sure a lot easier than other methods of suggested repair.

Some more details sent to me. Great inside work this time of year.