MTFCA Forum

I just had my first experience replacing the tires on my '23 T. It reminded me a little of what wrestling a bear must be like. The tires were old and the rims were rusted so removal was challenging. I wire brushed the insides of the rims and treated them with rust converter and prepared to install the new tires, tubes and flaps I purchased. I had no idea how much challenge my choice to use flaps would add to the adventure. After many failed attempts to mount the tire, tube and flap assembly as a unit and then trying to add the tube and flap after mounting one bead of the tire, I stopped and regrouped.

The photos below are what I came up with and it worked perfectly. By zip tying the tire, tube and flap assembly together and them working it onto the rim everything stayed where it was supposed to. Admittedly the zip ties were a little tricky to pull out but pressing on the beads and pulling slowly worked like a champ.

Congrats on your idea. I like it. Next tire job Ill try it.
I believe , from the first pix, you may have had a bigger fight from too much air in the tube.

Also try to set the tires in the sunlight if possible to get them as warm as possible for a little stretch. Some folks use a liberal application of baby powder to slip them on the rims or use the garbage bag method.

I did use lots of baby powder and the tube did not have the shrader valve in it. The issue was the circumference of the flap. It kept coming out of the tire as I started the mounting process. By holding the assembly closed it had no choice but to stretch!

mrjaffe wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 10, 2022 2:09 pm

I did use lots of baby powder and the tube did not have the shrader valve in it. The issue was the circumference of the flap. It kept coming out of the tire as I started the mounting process. By holding the assembly closed it had no choice but to stretch!

Ok, thats a flap I saw. Brilliant solution. Without a flap, your idea should still prevent pinched tubes.

I like my method. Remove old tires in whatever way it takes. Sometimes irons will work, other times its the Sawsall!
Then, load the rims and drive them to my favorite tire installer. Pick 'em up, re-install. Works for me!!

Ahhh thats cheating

Neat idea!

Ru-Glyde or a similar tire mounting lubricant is the key to mounting clinchers - oh, and a tire machine helps too !

I find it harder to get old tires off than to put new ones on. It is very easy with 4 hands and at least 3 irons. just work it on at the valve and then pry it in each direction from the valve leaving the two irons in place. Then take the third iron and pry it a little farther opposite the valve and remove the iron closer than the valve and pry on the opposite side until you get all the way around and it pops right in. Then pump up the tire which pushes the bead into the clincher and then remove the valve core and let all the air out. Then put the valve in and pump it up to pressure. Ready to drive.
Norm

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 10, 2022 4:20 pm

The zip tie thing looks like a good idea. You can also make the job a little easier if you use long irons (a little secret I picked up from Archimedes). I use HF two-footers. They apply more leverage with less effort than the little Model T irons. In my book the Ford irons are for tool displays only.

I did the same and I used alot of baby powder and that avoid lube mess... and keep my hands & tires clean especially when tires are white

A local Model T Guy here in Western Australia uses String instead of the Zip Ties but it’s the same principle.
He calls it the “Greasy String Method” . As the name implies, he lubricates each piece of String with a small amount of grease
which allows a much easier withdrawal once the Tyre is mounted. We don’t use Flaps only Rim Liners on Clinchers but
that is another “Hot issue” on the Forum along with Water Pumps and Engine Oil!
Alan in Western Australia

An observation or two. I use the clamp idea also to hold the tube/tyre assembly and the two beads in place.

I lever BOTH beads on at the same time, so the levers never come in contact with the tube.

I'll never use a sawzall to cut tyres off. An old friend did, and destroyed 4 as new Olympic butyl rubber tubes, the good ones that hold air! This taught me a lesson.
Subsequently, I have levered two new hard-as-rock Goodyear tyres off some nice rims, to reveal two brand new red rubber, metal stemmed tubes that are still in use in one of my T's.

Allan from down under.

If a clincher tyre is difficult to remove from the rim let the air out and drive over the tyre with your modern, not the wheel tho !

Nice idea, thanks for sharing.

I've mounted new tyres, tubes and flaps using lots of detergent ands sweat, finding that warm sunlight really helps.

I found it very difficult to mount tyres (tires to you) until I set them out on a concrete driveway in bright sunlight for 20 minutes, then they were easy.

Balance beads also solved a lot of problems with wooden wheels.

In most cases there is a need to use tire irons to pry the tire over the rim. When doing this, however, care should be taken to not chip the painted rim. I use small pieces of leather under the irons to avoid this. In every case, heated tires go on much easier! Dick C.
Can you tell that being locked up in the house for a couple of days because of the cold, rainy, icy weather in this area of North Carolina is having an effect on me??

Everyone has their own way of mounting tires. Do what works for you. Hard tires and flaps are difficult to work with. I use a big rubber mallet, and TT truck tire irons. I also use old stock metal valve stems and bridge washers. The current valve stems are too large, and the bridge washers are not made correctly.

Nice job Mike, This is exactly the technique I finally began to use with my last tire replacement. I even used a big C clamp and 11 ties just like you did. You're comparison to bear wrestling is very accurate. Removing the ties is a little tough because they break. I found if you remove what you can on one side then the other you can fully remove the them.














the wheel over.

The current valve stems are too large, and the bridge washers are not made correctly.

Yes, all the current tubes with metal stems use the larger size. If you're using them, the incorrect bridge washers are OK. But if you're buying rubber stemmed tubes (about $15 less) and installing your own metal stems, you want original style ridged bridge washers.

https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG110.html

to reinforce what Steve said, I'd state that you don't want the correct washers...you NEED the correct washers!

It seems the root of the problem was the use of unnecessary flaps. It brought to my feeble mind a line from a 60's protest song. "When will they ever learn?" Now I can't remember the song title or the singer.

Allan from down under.

I just demounted a 100+ year old Goodyear tire which has all the appearance of never being off it's original clincher - it had a canvas type flap !

"When will they ever learn?" Now I can't remember the song title or the singer.

Where have all the flowers gone?
Pete Seeger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS3-lyqCl80

Idea for the admins: can we have a forum 'On Topic BUT...' for threads on tyre flaps, distributors, Marvel Mystery Oil, waterpumps and the like ?

Personally, I'd choose the bear. I did that same task last summer. I could mount the tires with just the tubes, but not with the flaps....until, I used the big ties straps just like you've got pictured. They made all the difference in the world.