MTFCA Forum

I am building a new 27 motor for my speedster using a model A crank and model A rods. I need to Clearance the oil pan for the model A rods and I am wondering from the folks that have done this modification what method did you use. I have seen several engines where it looks like the oil pan was heated and beat to form the required clearance. Preference would be for this modification to look professional. Do you make up a backup die and use that to control the dimple? Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated. Thanks

I’m probably gonna catch some flack for this...

Crap - I wish my c.c. dimples were that CLEAN !!!

Lang’s sells a oil pan spacer when using a Model A crank that may work for you…
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3102SPND.aspx

MichaelPawelek wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 16, 2022 10:05 pm

Lang’s sells a oil pan spacer when using a Model A crank that may work for you…
https://www.modeltford.com/item/3102SPND.aspx

The spacer is only half of the solution... the dimples at the pan flange are needed as well. Take note of the rod nuts in my pic above. The 12 point nuts are much lower profile and so will require a much smaller dimple

I used the Lang’s pan spacer on the motor pictured above. The rear horseshoe is a notorious clearance problem at the 2 rear most bolts. Typically a section of the rear horseshoe is cut out, and the 2 rear most threads are nearly removed to clear the rear crank web.

With this motor, I abandoned the 2 rear most bolts in the horseshoe, and threaded the corresponding holes in the aluminum spacer. This allowed me to cut off the horseshoe and prevent the tight clearance area. No leaks so far (from this area), and didn’t worry about stripping the threads either

Kevin, thanks for the picture. I have seen it elsewhere before and I thought it looked like a die was used. Makes for a real nice job. Is there a male portion to it? I am using forged rods with cap screws, no dippers and inserts from Antique Engine Rebuilding so only need minimal clearance. I was hoping someone had a secret method like "use a piece of 1/2" black pipe and a rose bud, heat and beat to fit". I hate to ball peen it to death.

Dan, your picture shows my next issue after rod clearance. I am using a 4 dip pan with no dipper plate and a Sherman aluminum pan (pressure oil) so no spacer required, I think, but I will need to make room for that crank web similar to what you show.

Thanks for the guidance and ideas.

I made a special hammer to form the dimple into the die. Basically a bunch of scrap steel welded together in the shape of a hammer, with a piece of 1/2” rod for a striking surface. With this hammer, a #2 welding torch tip, and a few vice grips holding the die in the right place, the dimples are a piece of cake!