1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

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1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Wed Jan 19, 2022 7:35 pm

I'm following the guide to get my neutral dialed in. The yoke attached to the low speed pedal has quite a bit of play in the mounting hole in the pedal. Do I take up this play towards the front or rear of the car when setting the 1/16? Or do I try and center it within the "play range" best as possible?
yoke.jpg

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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TWrenn » Wed Jan 19, 2022 9:40 pm

Pretty much toward the front, inasmuch as this apparatus is actually at angle.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Thu Jan 20, 2022 10:08 am

TWrenn wrote:
Wed Jan 19, 2022 9:40 pm
Pretty much toward the front, inasmuch as this apparatus is actually at angle.
The angle is much more horizontal on my car than what is depicted in the picture.
So if I understand this right;
1. Hold low speed pedal all the way up.
2. Take up slop in yoke-to-pedal connection by pushing yoke towards the front of car (or towards the pedal if you will).
3. At this position, adjust the yoke to achieve 1/16 difference between hole in yoke and hole in cam arm.

I only ask because due to the play in the yoke-to-pedal connection, if I take up that slop by pulling the yoke away from the pedal (or towards the rear of the car), and then set the 1/16, it is quite a bit different. Like 5 turns or more of the yoke. So the direction you take up the slop seems to be a fairly important item.

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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by RajoRacer » Thu Jan 20, 2022 10:23 am

You really need to address the "slop" condition in both the pedal eye and the slo-speed connection at the hogshead shaft - pretty hard to get the neutral adjustment correct with any considerable amount of "slop".

When doing this adjustment, the "Bible" states to pull the pedal towards the rear (seat) of the car to distinguish the amount of the clevis to adjust.

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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TWrenn » Thu Jan 20, 2022 5:08 pm

I did fail to mention to check the condition of the clutch pedal support cam...Sadly it's INSIDE the hogshead...so you know what that means if it's wore, and a lot of em are! Been there, done that. PIA!!


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Thu Jan 20, 2022 5:56 pm

TWrenn wrote:
Thu Jan 20, 2022 5:08 pm
I did fail to mention to check the condition of the clutch pedal support cam...Sadly it's INSIDE the hogshead...so you know what that means if it's wore, and a lot of em are! Been there, done that. PIA!!
Yep, everything is a bit worn. Just trying to find the best neutral I can so I can push it across the shop easier.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Thu Jan 20, 2022 6:53 pm

So I realized I was getting quite a bit of rear brake drag with the brake lever in neutral. I disconnected the brake control rods. Put the lever in my best neutral position, and tried to adjust break control rod yokes to reach the break lever at this position. I realize this might not give me a skidding rear brake but I wanted to get rid of the rear brake drag.

With the yokes extended their fullest extent (I left 4 full turns of rod thread into the yoke), I was still shy of reaching the holes in the break lever by a solid 1/2". When I pull the control rods forward to reach the break lever, this 1/2" movement puts some drag on the brakes.

Does this sound normal?

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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by George Mills » Thu Jan 20, 2022 7:28 pm

I believe there are 2 lengths of rod? You might have wrong ones?

My first was a Very late 25 Fordor. One rod fine, other 1/2” short…the previous owner had just tied it up…but before I had a chance to sort it….I had a t thought…. Why not just cut then, take a dies to the new ends, and tie them together with a gate turnbuckle of the same size and then find good setting and jam but each end to ‘fix’ the turnbuckle.

I joke because later I had to set parking breaks on a large drum, and I must have had those rod ends on and off 1/2 dozen times each!

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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TWrenn » Thu Jan 20, 2022 7:57 pm

Ryan, when you say you "left 4 full turns in the brake rod yoke" I am assuming you mean that there are threads still visible exiting the "body" of the yoke, between the yoke forks? If so, don't be afraid to turn that yoke to at least where the threads are flush with the body. You still have full strength of those threads, anything sticking out is just wasted. Maybe that will solve your 1/2 inch issue, or at least come awfully close to it?


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:11 pm

TWrenn wrote:
Thu Jan 20, 2022 7:57 pm
I am assuming you mean that there are threads still visible exiting the "body" of the yoke, between the yoke forks?
No, the yoke is only turned on to the threaded rod by 4 full threads. I took the yokes completely off and then put them back on using 4 full turns thinking that was the minimum thread engagement I was comfortable with.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:17 pm

4 isn't enough. You should be able to get a full thread engagment of the rod in the yoke.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:24 pm

MN_Ford_Fan wrote:
Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:11 pm
TWrenn wrote:
Thu Jan 20, 2022 7:57 pm
I am assuming you mean that there are threads still visible exiting the "body" of the yoke, between the yoke forks?
No, the yoke is only turned on to the threaded rod by 4 full threads. I took the yokes completely off and then put them back on using 4 full turns thinking that was the minimum thread engagement I was comfortable with.
But with that being said, the brake lever cam now just clears the bolt on the clutch spring release arm when in the full forward position, which is fine and all good. But when I put the brake lever all the way to the seat, I don't get lock-up of the back wheels. I can actually still push the car by hand, although it is obviously grabbing some and is difficult to push.

The head is off the motor so I can't start it or test drive to see how good the rear brake holds or slows the car as-is.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:25 pm

TXGOAT2 wrote:
Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:17 pm
4 isn't enough. You should be able to get a full thread engagment of the rod in the yoke.
I agree it is not ideal. Should the rear brake control rods reach the brake lever without any actuation or movement of the arms on the rear brake drums?


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Thu Jan 20, 2022 8:52 pm

I'm not expert on this procedure, but you need full thread engagement to stand the pulling strain and to prevent the end of the brake rod from breaking off due to vibration. You should not be able to pull the brake lever all the way back to the seat. The brakes should be set tight with the lever still an inch or more away from the seat, and it should not have any other interference, such as the floor board. With the brakes set, it should be impossible to push the car. "Neutral" should happen with the lever about halfway forward, or straight up, or nearly so. I don't think they all come out exactly the same, though. In "neutral", the brakes should be fully released and the clutch should not drag, unless in VERY cold weather with overly thick oil. Even then, once the engine warms up, the clutch drag should disappear. Why your car is behaving differently is not obvious to me from here, but if you can rule out cold weather/thick oil, it would likely be caused by worn or mis-matched or bent parts or adjustment. It's probably necessary to adjust the linkages in a particular order, such as brakes first, then clutch/neutral, or the other way 'round, since they act together.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Thu Jan 20, 2022 9:08 pm

The adjustment bolt should just clear the cam with the lever all the way forward, and it should be almost off the end of the cam, where the cam curves off sharply. The clutch pedal should be all the way back. When you pull the lever halfway back, approximately, the adjustment bolt should be forced up by the cam and the clutch pedal should move about halfway down toward the floorboard. At this point the clutch should be disengaged and the brakes off. Putting the lever all the way forward again should allow the pedal to come all the way back, clutch fully engaged, and the pedal should have a very small amount of free play. The pedal should not hit the floorboard. Pulling the lever all the way back should set the parking brakes firmly, and the clutch pedal should be about halfway down. Confused? I am. I think Rube Goldberg would be, too.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Fri Jan 21, 2022 9:38 am

I'm thinking I need to pull apart the rear drums to see what's going on in there. Any tips?


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Fri Jan 21, 2022 10:11 am

I wouldn't be too quick to pull the rear hubs. Have you looked carefully at the brake rods for any evidence they have ever been bent, welded, or otherwise modified? Maybe they're too short. '26'27 brake rods may be different due to the rediesigned brakes. (?) On my car, ('26-27) the brake lever is about 5" from the seat with the brakes set tight, and it has good clutch action and no brake drag. I can push it easily after it has sat in 45 F weather. Normal wear in the rear brakes ought to have the effect of making the rods longer. Disconnecting the brake rods at the rear wheels and making sure the brake levers at the backing plates return freely to the "off" position ought to eliminate brake adjustment as a cause of the dragging.

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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by NHUSA » Fri Jan 21, 2022 10:20 am

A lot of people try to follow the diagram but I just make shure it works correctly.
My dad showed me this way many many many years ago…

1. Handbrake all the way back.
2. Adjust the bands so when the Peddle is pressed down about 1 1/2 inches from the floor it locks up the low bands.
3. Next Adjust the toggle so when the peddle is depressed about 1 1/2 inches the internal clutch is released (neutral)
4. Then with the peddle all the way up move the brake handle forward until the shoe is under the adjustment screw and adjust it until the clutch is in neutral.

Some may disagree with this method but it has worked for my dad and I for 60 years…

All most forgot… 1st adjust the brakes so they are tight with the handle all the way back or almost (1/2 inch from) all the way back.
NH - Where I used to live - not the carburetor ! :lol:


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Fri Jan 21, 2022 6:48 pm

So I've been messing with this today for a few hours trying to get the rear brakes set best as possible. I adjusted the brake rods so that the wheels lock up (car raised, can't turn wheels by hand) with the brake lever release handle about an inch from the seat. I then release the brake lever and put all the way forward. I then move handle 1 click at a time towards neutral. The brakes start dragging immediately at the first click. Neutral on my car seems to be 10-11 clicks up. That is about the point where the adjustment bolt has just reached the top flat of the clutch release cam.

At this point the brake leaver is almost perfectly vertical, maybe 1 click forward of vertical. But also at this point, there is enough drag on the rear brakes to make it difficult to turn them by hand. Certainly won't be "rolling" across the floor with one hand, lol.

Is this just the best it's going to get? Any recommendations on what to try next?


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Fri Jan 21, 2022 7:15 pm

I guess maybe a better question would be, how much drag should I expect on the rear wheels with the break handle in neutral? I don't see how it could be free-wheeling since the brake rods have been pulled approximately half their travel.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by kmatt2 » Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:01 pm

In you user profile it says that your Model T is a 1926 roadster. If your 26 has the correct large drum rear axel the brake rods should be the straight ones with out the offset crossing over the radius rod of the 25 and earlier small drum real axel rods. My 26 coupe had this problem when I got it because someone had changed out the rear axel with a 1919 small drum and needed to use the pre 26 rods, the inverse problem. If your brake rods are correct then there may be a problem with a brake lining coming loose from the 26 type brake band or something else at a miss in the emergency brakes. Also check that the floor boards are not causing problems. After checking these things, the next point I would pull the rear wheels and check the condition of the emergency brake bands, linings, return springs. If the emergency linings are fairly newly installed the lining ends may need sanding down at a angle at the ends or at high spots. The emergency brakes should not drag when the hand lever is half way back.
Last edited by kmatt2 on Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:06 pm

Something's not right, somewhere. I suspect (guess) the brake rods are too short. *(See Kmatt post above) * With the brake lever straight up, or close to it, you should have no significant brake drag. You should be able to raise the car and turn the rear wheels by hand with no perceptible drag from the brakes. A slight scraping noise from the brakes, caused by dirt or rust, is is not uncommon, but the wheels should turn freely. The brakes should not begin to tighten until the lever is closer to the seat than to straight up and down. As I mentioned, the brake lever on my car stops about 5" ahead of the seat with the brakes set tight. Yet they are fully released with the lever straight up, or just a little past. It's a '26-27 car with lined brakes. I have to open a gate to get out on the county road, and I often set the brake, get out of the car, open the gate, then walk up to the driver's side of the car and carefully release the brake. If it does not roll forward on the very slight incline, I ease the lever forward just a little past straight up and the clutch beigins to engage, which set the car rolling. I walk along beside it, hand on the brake lever, and stop it when it clears the gate.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:12 pm

Re: "The brakes start dragging immediately at the first click." ..... That ain't right. If my car did that, the brakes would be locked tight with the lever straight up. You may have modded brake rods, or the wrong rods, or maybe something isn't right with the brake cams or something else inside the brakes. I'd try to find out the correct overall length the brake rods should be. It's also possible the brake pedal is bent.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:26 pm

kmatt2 wrote:
Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:01 pm
If your 26 has the correct large drum rear axel the brake rods should be the straight ones with out the offset crossing over the radius rod of the 25 and earlier small drum real axel rods.
The drums measure 11" in diameter. The brake rods are nice and straight and measure approx. 55" long. I'm thinking the problem may be in the drums.
brake2.jpg
brake1.jpg


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by John kuehn » Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:31 pm

I do the so called “free neutral” setting this way.

1. Make sure the wear points in the clutch linkage and brake lever areas are OK.
2. Adjust the clutch linkage according to the linkage diagram in the Ford manual. That also includes the brake rods.
3. Start the engine on level ground and run it to operating temperature. Pull the brake lever back and stop the engine.
4. Set the brake lever in a straight up position (90 degrees).
5. Pull up the crank and you should be able to do it without moving the car. Or you should be able to push the car forward fairly easy.
6. If the car moves when the brake lever is at 90 degrees readjust the linkage until you get the car in “neutral” the best you can which probably won’t be perfect.

And of course this my opinion! And always remember your dealing with 100 year old technology and try not to compare it with today’s vehicles which will always have better brakes than a T ever will.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Sat Jan 22, 2022 5:46 pm

Can't seem to make no progress, lol. Wanted to check the drums/shoes, started with the driver's side, I don't think this wheel has ever been off! My largest puller grabbing 3/8" thick metal plates placed behind the spokes. Torqued down and pounded on repeatedly. Also thrown heat and penetrating oil at it. May have to wait and try the drive-around trick once I get the motor back together.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sat Jan 22, 2022 7:49 pm

Can you take a picture of the levers and rods on the backing plates with the brake hand lever pulled back hard? The angle of the levers with the brakes set tight might give a clue as to whether there is a problem inside the brakes or not. Getting the rear hubs off can be a battle, and I wouldn't be in a hurry to do it without checking all other possibilities first. Most internal brake issues result in brakes that are too loose, not too tight.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:12 pm

TXGOAT2 wrote:
Sat Jan 22, 2022 7:49 pm
Can you take a picture of the levers and rods on the backing plates with the brake hand lever pulled back hard?
Here are 3 pics.
1. Lever position when pulled back as far as possible. As I have it set, the wheels are pretty much locked at this position (when tested by hand with wheels off ground).
2. Drivers side drum arm with brakes locked.
3. Pass side drum arm with brakes locked.
lever.jpg
driver.jpg
pass.jpg


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by John kuehn » Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:49 pm

Since you don’t have the stock or original Model T transmission or brake set up that I can tell, setting your neutral may be different then the one shown in the manual.
Others that have the optional transmission set up will know about that than I do. I’ll leave it to them.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:58 pm

John kuehn wrote:
Sat Jan 22, 2022 8:49 pm
Since you don’t have the stock or original Model T transmission or brake set up that I can tell, setting your neutral may be different then the one shown in the manual.
I'm not positive but I am pretty sure it is all stock and original for a '26. What are you seeing that says different?


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sat Jan 22, 2022 9:02 pm

The backing plate levers on my car (26-27 roadster) are in exactly the same position as the ones in your picture with the hand brake lever pulled back hard. At the same time, the hand brake lever is about 5" ahead of the seat cushion. (Some levers will move closer to the seat) When my hand brake lever is all the way forward, it has about 1/2" of play at the handle. Pulling it back toward the halfway point immediately causes the clutch pedal to move down toward the floorboard, and with the brake handle pulled about halfway back, the clutch pedal is held down about 2 1/2" toward the floor board from being all the way back. Pulling the brake lever back further toward the seat begins to set the brakes, and it keeps the clutch pedal held about halfway down. When the lever is all the way forward and the clutch pedal is all the way back, the clutch pedal pedal has a small amount of play.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sat Jan 22, 2022 9:10 pm

There is an adjustment for the 3 clutch throwout fingers that could affect the relationship between the brake and clutch linkages. It's a touchy adjustment. I believe it would affect the angle of the small lever/link that has the bolt that rides on the clutch cam on one end and the link to the brake pedal on the other end.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by Scott_Conger » Sat Jan 22, 2022 9:23 pm

Your brake levers at the backing plates are perfectly aligned for full-on braking (straight up)

Based on how far backward they lean when the brake lever is (I assume) full forward, you may actually have the brake cams going over center and starting to set the brakes (due to the cam going too far backward). When you said you had brakes after just "1 click", that made me wonder about the rods being too long (clevis adjustment) and that perhaps at 2,3 or 4 "clicks" the brakes might free up, as the brake cam could now be at its minimum throw.

I would start at the beginning and disconnect the rods from the brake arms and find where the brake arm settles when the shoes are holding the cam at its full "off" position (the shoes are spring-loaded and will naturally be pulled to their smallest diameter, and the brake cam will be at it's smallest width ie: brake cam parallel with the ground and the levers angled backward some amount)...which I suspect will be somewhat forward of where they show right now. Once the brake lever at the drum has settled to full "off" then I'd disconnect the rods from the brake handle and attach them at the rear. Throw your brake lever full forward (in gear) and then adjust the clevis/threads so that the clevis JUST attaches to the brake lever (both rods, both sides). You now have brakes all the way off with the car in full gear. Some amount of pulling back on the hand brake will set the transmission into neutral, while allowing the car to roll. The lever will be SOMEWHERE near vertical.

As you pull back on the brake lever and begin to engage the parking brakes, you can now individually fine tune one clevis or the other to pull evenly on the brakes to set the wheels.

None of the above requires a wheel pulled off, and in fact requires them to both be on.

Now, if you simply MUST pull your wheels, then STOP pulling with makeshift pullers lest you ruin your wheel. Purchase a proper puller from one of the vendors and do it safely.
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


TXGOAT2
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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sat Jan 22, 2022 9:44 pm

With the hand brake lever all the way forward on my car, the backing plate levers are at about 10 o'clock. With the brakes full on, they are close to 12 o'clock.


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MN_Ford_Fan
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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Sat Jan 22, 2022 9:58 pm

TXGOAT2 wrote:
Sat Jan 22, 2022 9:44 pm
With the hand brake lever all the way forward on my car, the backing plate levers are at about 10 o'clock. With the brakes full on, they are close to 12 o'clock.
That is about right with mine as well. When you say "close to 12:00 o'clock", is it past 12 or before 12?

I think my drums might be full of rust and/or corrosion, causing the pads to grab the drums early. But until I can get the wheels off, I won't know, lol.


speedytinc
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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by speedytinc » Sat Jan 22, 2022 10:01 pm

Is it possible the brake cams were installed 180 degrees off?
The cams should not be fully engaged when the levers are @ 12 o clock.
The key may be a visual when the drums are off.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sat Jan 22, 2022 10:14 pm

My brakes are locked with the backing plate levers just slightly before straight up, like maybe 11:45 AM. There is no evident wear in any of the parts on my car related to the brake/clutch linkages. I'd avoid trying to remove the rear hubs unless ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. It would take a LOT of rust or dirt to cause brake troubles, and since your brake levers at the rear seem to work OK, AND your brakes can be both set and released with the brake lever, I suspect your problem lies with the adjustment of the clutch or with the link between the clutch linkage and the brake linkage. I will try to get a good measurement on the length of my brake rods tomorrow, and also take a look at the angles of the double lever on the clutch release shaft going into the hogshead with the clutch engaged and disengaged.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Sun Jan 23, 2022 10:07 am

TXGOAT2 wrote:
Sat Jan 22, 2022 9:02 pm
The backing plate levers on my car (26-27 roadster) are in exactly the same position as the ones in your picture with the hand brake lever pulled back hard. At the same time, the hand brake lever is about 5" ahead of the seat cushion.
Maybe using the cushion is not the best reference point. My cushion does not appear to be original as it sits quite a ways forward of the seat support. Here is a picture with the cushion flipped up and the lever all the way back and wheels locked. Otherwise your description matches up pretty good with my setup. The only difference is I have some brake drag with the lever straight up. Not the end of the world, just makes pushing it in the shop more difficult than it needs to be, lol. Seeing as the wheel is not going to cooperate, I am going to leave it be for now.
lever2.jpg


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sun Jan 23, 2022 10:35 am

That's probably within the normal range for the brake lever. Your brakes may have gummy old grease and dirt accumulations causing them to drag. I'd leave them alone until you have a chance to drive the car. A gummy clutch can also cause excess drag, and other than adjustments, if needed, I'd leave it alone until I had the car running and fresh oil in the crankcase. Once the car is running, I'd want to lubricate EVERYTHING, including ALL brake linkages, lever pivot points, etc, and drive it carefully for short distances at moderate speeds while stopping frequently and checking everything, including the brakes, for any sign of trouble, like overheating, leaking, looseness, etc.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Sun Jan 23, 2022 1:19 pm

TXGOAT2 wrote:
Sun Jan 23, 2022 10:35 am
I'd leave them alone until you have a chance to drive the car.
The car drives good. I have had it for a few years, just have never been able to push it around easily, that is why I am monkeying with the low speed pedal, brake lever, and brakes.

I have the head off the motor and am doing a valve job so that is why it is in my work area where I sometimes need to move it out of the way. I'm almost embarrassed to say why the head is off, lol. I blew a seam at the bottom of the radiator this summer and temporarily patched it up with some ultra black to get me through. When I refilled the radiator I used straight water because I wasn't sure if my patch would hold. Of course I soon forgot about that and then winter came.
cracked head2.jpg


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sun Jan 23, 2022 3:08 pm

Flex Seal!


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sun Jan 23, 2022 5:41 pm

My brake rods measure 53" from the center of the front clevis pin to the center of the rear clevis pin.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by MN_Ford_Fan » Sun Jan 23, 2022 6:17 pm

TXGOAT2 wrote:
Sun Jan 23, 2022 5:41 pm
My brake rods measure 53" from the center of the front clevis pin to the center of the rear clevis pin.
Thank you for verifying that. I measured mine from end to end and it was actually like 54.5 so I think we pretty much have the same length brake rods. With my lever all the way forward, I get zero brake drag, just a few whisps of very light contact. I suppose there is a chance the shoes are like new and just have very little wear. This car came from an auction so I don't have any history on it.

While it is tore down, I am also putting in new valves to replace the 2-piece valves, converting from Vaporizer to NH carb, and of course putting in a new radiator. The old radiator already had some leaking but now leaks like it was shot with a shotgun after the freeze-up, lol.


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Re: 1/16 Play in Yoke for Setting Neutral

Post by TXGOAT2 » Sun Jan 23, 2022 8:07 pm

You could have a broken or missing rear brake return spring. The '26-27 T rear brake shoe is a single piece of pressed steel with a single stout coil spring to pull it into the released position, not 2 shoes like most other vehicles. It's almost a full circle. I haven't handled one, but looking at a picture, it looks as if the shoe would tend to expand out against the drum if the return spring was broken, weak, or missing. You might take the brake rods loose at the rear and fiddle with the backing plate lever and see if it feels like it has a fairly strong spring action to pull it back to the released position.

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