MTFCA Forum

My ‘25 Coupe is driving me crazy trying to bend the timer control rod so I get full travel up at the lever on the steering column with correct timing also.

The problem is that a outside oil line from the magneto contact to the left front of the engine is in the way and the current control rod is bent like a wet noodle already. I have bent the rod numerous times and am close but no cigar yet!

Has anyone cobbled up a control rod that runs over the top of the water inlet pipe that goes from the bottom of the radiator to the left side of the block successfully? Thanks….

Yes, that's usually the resolution.

I have yet to drive a Model T that needed the full range of movement at the lever, most are, at most, about 3/4 travel, maybe a little more, maybe a little less. If the rod you have now is as you describe, a wet noodle, I would suggest getting a new one. Then bend the copper supply line out of the way instead of trying to work around it. You may need to anneal the area you are bending. Then make sure the hose between the radiator and tube is not too long. As supplied, that hose is too long, and can interfere with the rod travel.
Has it been done, running the rod over the water pipe, yes. Probably more often than one might think. So go ahead and give it a try. If that does not work out, try the above.

I did not make the rod, but one of the 26 T's I have has the rod over the hose. It goes straight from the fitting at the end of the steering column to the timer. There is one bend where it goes over the hose. It works fine. The other T's I have with the rod under the hose. Those have a lot more bends and a bit harder to adjust the rod to find the right spot for the retard. They work fine also. I have the oil line on each of my cars. The rod goes just above the bend in the line and does not scrape on the line. It is a little harder to get all the bends right but it can be done. Note: On all my T's I have the pipe in the center with short hoses at the radiator and at the inlet. It might not work so well with a solid hose all the way between the radiator and the inlet.
Norm

My 26 T works fine as follows:

From the timer, the rod goes upwards/across for about 2" and then curves over and down - but NOT back - to a point below the inboard edge of the water hose upper clip.
It's always in front of the auxiliary oil line fitting.
Then it turns back and up to the control rod bellcrank.
It's always about one finger's thickness from (below) the water hose/pipe.
I only need about half the available travel to find the 3 timing points available and needed.

For the factory fit, trim that lower hose, the repro hose sets come with that lower hose cut about 3" long or more.
Factory size is 2 3/4" length , so that the control rod runs under the metal pipe, and away from the hose. Even with an outside oiler on the front plate bolt, the timer rod clears fine.

Have found the Lang's offered specific year timer rods have correct bends, and easy to adjust the timer by bending only at the large curvature of the rod over the timer.