MTFCA Forum

Ok so I'm putting together a wooden Kingston coil box that accepts later 14-27 style coils. I have a new contact strip for the bottom and contacts (fun projects) and all the hardware etc. I've been reading that the contact strip needs to be riveted to the bottom of the coil box with stainless steel rivets. I'm awaiting the coil box from the vendor, but curious to know if anyone has done this procedure.... I've seen the replacement of the contact strip on later coil boxes since you can take them apart. The coil box is a reproduction from a guy up in Canada. Can the rivets be riveted on inside the coil box? Is there room to use the rivet tool?
Thanks
Mike

You are aware that the repo contacts are softer & inferior to the originals?
It would be best to part out an original box for the contacts.

Years ago got a repro box at swap, and made it work for the later coils, just had to replace the outer contacts with the original offset style, so the coils would line up.

Believe the lower strip was anchored with flat head wood screws into the base of the box, as nothing was showing underneath the box. The dividers were removable, but the later coils fit fine. Ohly had to add brackets for mounting and latch hooks to secure the wood lid.

The switch was included on the repro box, it was a later lock type, but liked the round shape as it looked from a distance like a round Kingston or Heinze.
That switch was already wired up

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 26, 2022 1:36 pm

You are aware that the repo contacts are softer & inferior to the originals?
It would be best to part out an original box for the contacts.

Yes there are garbage ones out there… however the ones made by Fun Projects were made from the Ford prints. They were made from the exact same material, thickness etc as the originals.

Regarding the pop river tool, I had to use a tool with a swivel head to get inside the box. jb

jab35 wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 26, 2022 3:01 pm

Regarding the pop river tool, I had to use a tool with a swivel head to get inside the box. jb

Did you find it a difficult job? What kind of swivel head pop rivet tool did you use? I heard those stainless steel rivets can be a bear.

Mike,

I had the same question about a month ago when I was building up my Heinze coil box made to fit later KW coils. There was no way my rivet puller was going to work, so I used three countersunk #6 screws as shown in the picture below. The screw heads are about as flush as a pulled pop rivet would be. The coil box is the first thing I've gotten finished so far on my 11 touring restoration project.

NealW wrote: ↑

Wed Jan 26, 2022 9:25 pm

Mike,

I had the same question about a month ago when I was building up my Heinze coil box made to fit later KW coils. There was no way my rivet puller was going to work, so I used three countersunk #6 screws as shown in the picture below. The screw heads are about as flush as a pulled pop rivet would be. The coil box is the first thing I've gotten finished so far on my 11 touring restoration project.

Neal thanks! What kind of sin did you us on your coil box? That looks great!

Tbird wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 27, 2022 11:33 am

Neal thanks! What kind of sin did you us on your coil box? That looks great!

Maybe save that for the confessional...

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 27, 2022 11:42 am

Tbird wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 27, 2022 11:33 am

Neal thanks! What kind of sin did you us on your coil box? That looks great!

Maybe save that for the confessional...

LOL stupid auto correct!

I used Laurel Mountain Forge Cherry stain that I bought from Track of the Wolf. Prior postings on the forum site said that this is the closest stain that matches the original stain used on the firewalls when T's were made.


https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categori ... MF-STAIN-C