MTFCA Forum

I came into a set of new pre 1926 style Rocky Mountain brakes complete with the drums. I need a set for my 1926 speedster and I thought I could just run these without installing the drums. But, it appears the drums designed to go over the 1925 and earlier brake drum are bigger than the 1926-27 brake drums and they do not appear to close far enough to clamp on the 1926 drum. Can anyone confirm that this is true? If I were not in Alaska, I would sell these and order a 1926-27 set as they are cheaper than the pre-1926 set (since they don’t need the drums), but shipping would be a pain. I brought these up for free as checked luggage.

You are correct.

Here is an earlier post on that subject.

viewtopic.php?t=17101

You might find someone else in Alaska who would like them, or find someone who is planning to visit your town who could deliver them to someone in the other 48 or to Canada. I have installed both kinds and the earlier ones with the bigger drums actually do stop a bit better than the 26-27. But both kinds work well if properly adjusted and run in the forward direction. Be sure to keep the transmission brake for the times you roll backward you can step harder to hold the car, or pull on the parking brake if not moving fast.
Norm

The 26- 27 drums are larger than earlier cars.
If I read it right yours is a small drum rear axle in a 26?

Dallas Landers wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 24, 2022 5:22 pm

The 26- 27 drums are larger than earlier cars.
If I read it right yours is a small drum rear axle in a 26?

No, mine has the large 26-27 brake drums. It’s just that the conversion drums made for the pre-26 drums are even bigger. Now that I have the unit, it wouldn’t be all that hard to copy it. If I can find someone that needs these I might move them on.

I find 26-7 R/M brakes redundant & unnecessary. A well maintained emergency/park shoes stops better, (no reverse issues, stay dry, same surface less setup issues & not ugly) Just keep them grease free. The vendors even offer an equalizer/activator to work in concert with the brake pedal. I have a handy parking brake extension for extra braking needs. Using it has become automatic.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 24, 2022 6:23 pm

I find 26-7 R/M brakes redundant & unnecessary. A well maintained emergency/park shoes stops better, (no reverse issues, stay dry, same surface less setup issues & not ugly) Just keep them grease free. The vendors even offer an equalizer/activator to work in concert with the brake pedal. I have a handy parking brake extension for extra braking needs. Using it has become automatic.

My thoughts exactly. Totally unnecessary with a 26/27 rear end. And I don't even bother with the equaliser - using the handbrake is completely automatic, just like using the rest of the Model T's unique controls. I've even installed flip up oilers for the handbrake lever, instead of just the bare oiling holes in the chassis. And, before anyone says the transmission goes into neutral when using the rear brakes that way, I just step on the low pedal if I do need engine braking.

I have an auxiliary transmission on the speedster, so auxiliary brakes are a really good idea. If you are in neutral on the auxiliary transmission, the regular brake does not work and though the 26-27 parking brakes are better, I like the insurance of the auxiliary brake.

Plus, Chaffin’s sells the correct bands for the 26-27 for $150. It’s an easy switch.

The problem with using the parking brake on a 26-27 is that it automatically puts the transmission in neutral. Better to leave in gear to get the additional braking of the engine compression. At lower speeds you can also use low gear. The low gear will work with the parking brake on, but not good to use with the car moving very fast. I like to have three braking systems. in this order: Rocky mountain first by using the pedal. Then the transmission brake by pushing the pedal further and lastly the parking brake which also applies the Rocky mountain brake.
Norm

Real Rocky Mountain brakes are totally different, and have a larger drum than a 26-7.

Re: RM brakes?
Post by Craig Leach » Sat Feb 26, 2022 8:55 pm

This seems to come up alot. I have been told by the gentalman the makes RM's that the mounting casting is differant between the 9-25 & the 26-27 brakes. The wheel mounting not fitting also comes up. I have thrown this out there before can you have a 1 3/4" x 3/8 flat iron roled at the local fab shop, welded, heated, srunk on the 26-27 drum.Then turned to the same size as the 9-25 drum and solve both issues at the same time. This would also make a more robust drum for both the park brake & the RM. Or cut the center out of the 9-25 drums & weld them to the 26-27 drums. could be cheeper than a hole new set. Just a thought?
Craig.
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Interestingly, I am not using the cast brackets. I built lowering brackets that double as the mounting brackets for the Rocky Mountain brake bands.

Morgan,
Looks like you know your way around fabricating. Why not shorten the bands to fit and sell the drums? I realy like your lowering brackets I'm looking at making something simular but on the back side and using the mount to locate a anchor for a set of 14" Studebaker brakes. Very simular to AC brakes in that they self energise both directions but are way larger.
Craig.

Craig,
I could do that. I have the tools (including a set of rollers) and was planning on making bands before I got these. But, changing the size of the existing bands would require pretty much taking the bands entirely apart. Since they are available, it’s probably easier to just buy them.

I got the idea for my lowering brackets from a design in the model t in speed and sport or the fast Ford handbook, which used a 1/2 plate to move the spring mount behind the axle. So, your idea should work. I just moved it to the front. Moving the springs to the front was not a new idea either, but I did not see anyone who did it with a plate like I did.

Hi Morgan,
These are not as nice as yours but I found them online and have seen a nicer set. I'm just thinking that new bands & lining would be just north of $400 and i'm pretty cheap. If I don't do the lions share of the work I can't afford all my toys. Craig.

Those look good, pretty much exactly like the ones I saw plans for. I understand and agree about doing your own work. That’s how I am myself. I have too many interests to pay someone else to do the work. I also get really annoyed when I pay someone to do the job worse than I could do it myself. Plus, with every job I learn something.