MTFCA Forum

I want to silver solder a couple of mounting bolts to the back of the chrome-plated brass FORD script I bought to mount on my radiator. I'm planning on grinding off the chrome in the spots where I want the bolts and using a micro-torch to do the soldering. My question is, am I likely to discolor the chrome on the opposite side or have others done this with success?

Yes... I know chrome does not belong on a Model T but this is all I could find that came close to the nickle finish used on hubcaps, radiator neck and etc.

Tim, I just used stainless wire and looped it around between two letters on each side.
Then carefully slide the wire through the fins and twist it on the back side, then bend over away from the fan.

Here's a picture...

Alternatively you could do what I've done with both Chrome Script and Brass Script.
I drilled through them in 2 places and with the long mounting screws, used acorn headed nuts facing outwards with split washers underneath.
On the engine side I used a larger washer with a fiber washer between it and the core.
They look very neat and I know they wont fail.

I wouldn’t solder it and risk discoloring or damaging the chrome. The chrome played brass Ford Script on my radiator was drilled and tapped for a small enough screw to fit between the fins. Jim Patrick

Tim, I attached my Ford script with .025” diameter annealed brass wire as per Ruxtel24 Dave. I used brass wire instead of stainless. (What I had on hand.) No need to solder. Stainless or brass wire your choice.

I literally just went thru this exercise and trust me, don’t silver solder it. I had an actual jeweler do the work and it discolored both the Ford script and the year. It was so bad that I bought a new plaques and started over.an expensive lesson. I then experimented on the destroyed ones and used plumbing solder and a good soldering iron with a large tip. It worked fine and no discoloring at all. The silver solder is unnecessary and takes far too much heat which causes the discoloring.

The other trick is to use plumbers flux and solder. There is acid in that VS regular solder and it lets the solder flow easily on bolt heads. Clean the heads of the long bolts really well with fine sandpaper or wire wheel. Burnish the back of the plaques with fine sandpaper, brush the flux on and you’re good to go. Using a stand the holds things in place is a must. Heat both parts together until the solder flows when touched to the parts and not the soldering iron and then stop. You’re done.

Jeff

Lots of info to ponder. Thanks! Something else I’m considering is 3m 5200 marine adhesive. 3m says not to use it on anything you might ever want to take apart. Decisions, decisions.

I had thought to use SS wire but when asked, Bergs radiator suggested against it. Said over time the wire might cut into a tube. If I use wire I’d probably try to run it thru a small plastic tube or...

I wouldn't worry too much about using stainless wire despite what Bergs says. If you have a original style round tube radiator you can easily space the stainless wire so it is no where near a tube. I have Ford script mounted that way for more than 40 years on an original radiator without a problem. I just check occaisionally to make sure it has not shifted from side to side but so far after many many miles and lots of vibration nothing has shifted.

I use the wire. But, rather than just twisting the wires on the backside, I place a small maple stick on the back, situated vertically, to span many fins, and twist the wire over the stick. Doing that, prevents the wire from working into the fins, thus getting loose enough to rub the water tubes. As long as the wire is tight, there will be no motion and no rubbing on the water tubes.

Having done several nickle plated radiator projects I have followed this philosophy.
You can solder to nickle plated brass and you can nickle plate over soldering on brass. Now this has all been plumbers type solder. I believe it would be also possible to nickle plate if it had been silver soldered.
So perhaps consider taking to the plater and have the plating removed. Silver solder the studs to it and get it replated. Or just get the chrome removed (most platers will do this for free) and then just lead solder the studs/bolts on

I use 3mm stainless all-thread and dome nuts. Drill the script, cut the all-thread to length and use a small piece of strap iron with a bit of rubber between it and the core on the back side of the core.

Allan from down under.

Another question - some install the "Ford" at an angle, others straight across. Historically is there any "right" or "accepted" way of doing this?

I just put two drips of black windscreen glue on the back of the script and push it in the radiator.
It stay for over 10 years now and nobody see how I did it, no screws no wire. Just do not over do the glue that it stays under the script.

Good luck

Andre
Belgium

Oldav8tor wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 07, 2019 10:01 pm

Another question - some install the "Ford" at an angle, others straight across. Historically is there any "right" or "accepted" way of doing this?

Surprised no one bit on this...
I like an angle and it's easier than trying to make it perfectly straight.