MTFCA Forum

How do you mount a gas generator to the running board when the diameter of the generator base is a small bit larger than the distance between the two vertical ridges of the running board? I was thinking about cutting a piece of 1/4 inch plate as a spacer.

I see some spacers in this photo from this forum suggestion. I hope it helps.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/899822.jpg
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/82 ... 1537597816

In addition, I found this bottom flange with solder remaining where spacers were removed.

I think I need a wide flat surface as a spacer to lie flat against the tops of rhe dimples of the running boards and provide clearance from the vertical edges. I suppose I could use different size washers under each hole depending whether it rests on top of a dimple or not. Id still need more height to clear the vertical edges. That doesn't sound especially good to me though.

My former '12 Comm. R/PU had that issue. Previous owner just used washers. I left it that way.

Anybody have an unrestored, un-usable one for display they would sell?

The problem you have is you are using a Corcoran Generator which has the large round circumference base which is larger than a Jno Brown (used on Model T’s) which has a casted base that compensates for the running board size. If you would like pictures of the Jno Brown email me at astein.pls@gmail.com

Oh last question. Do I use 3/8 brass slotted screws to hold the generator to the running boards?

I think I used 5/16" carriage bolts. Using a lathe or drill press, file or turn down the square part of the shank and reduce the height of the crown on the bolt head. If cadmium plated, dip them in muriatic acid, then nuteralize them with some baking soda and water before you paint them. I like to use a big thick rubber grommet for a spacer to protect the running board. Secured with square nuts.

I can check on sizes when I get home. I'll post a pic, too.

: ^ )

Did 1912's use the existing running board bolts like the 13-14's?

Not on the repro Corcoran I have

I like the idea of a carriage bolt head. Looks better than a slotted screw, probably more authentic too. A thick rubber spacer under the bade is a good idea too. Just has to be thick enuf so the base clears the vertical edges of the running cord.

This later model black as me brass generator has spacers riveted on. It sits, as yours does, on top of the outer ridge of the running board. I read on here before that they are designed to sit raised above the surface to allow air underneath for cooling.

My guess is when carbide generators were installed during production, they weren't worried if the mounting base hung over the running board or not. I also doubt that spacers were used either. Having said that, although my generator's base isn't a larger diameter than the ridges on my running boards, I did use spacers of a material that doesn't attract or hold moisture. Since the base had round mounting holes and not square I did not use carriage bolts plus I don't see slot heads as unsightly.


The photo below is of a Canadian built '12 exported to New Zealand. (so it's not a reversed photo)


This is a picture of an American built '12's generator.

Richard
A similar situation occurred when Ford introduced the spare tire carrier for the 1926 Roadster pickup spare tire carrier.
Attached is a photo of this part.
The problem was how to support the spare tire carrier base to the embossed ridges on the uneven running board surface.
A simple flat shim was developed and mounted between the carrier base and the running board.
See attached photo.
I think you on the right track with a appropriately shaped round shim between the base of the generator and the running board uneven surface.
Ron Patterson