MTFCA Forum

Is there any easy way to replace a Worn Crank Holder Sleave with the engine in the car and the radiator installed?

This one is so worn the crank spring slides in and blocks the crank from turning.

I didn't remove my radiator before trying to replace my worn sleeve. I now have a new Brassworks radiator because of that decision. I tried using threaded rod with washers and nuts to press the sleeve out. I could only move it a little bit. The good news was that I had a Sawzall bit that fit into the hole and I cut a kerf. Driving the new sleeve in took a really big hammer.

The easy way to remove the old bushing is with a saw blade. A saws all or a hacksaw blade in a handle.(mini hacksaw) Make the cut about 3/8-1/2" from the split. Cut thru 90% & collapse it.

The new steel bushings are way oversize on the OD to fit @ .020 press fit & out of round. One can destroy a pan if not careful, especially when the pan is loose, off a motor. The thing to do is turn the OD to .005" over before installing. (that sounds like a lot, but the bushing will easily size down due to the split) Chamfer the entering edge. Install with a bushing driver machined to fit & greased on the ID. Use a 1/2 a really big hammer.
A bronze bushing would be easier for the more average guy for the proper fit in theory. I dont have experience with bronze.

Even the stock bronze bushing from a bearing house can be a very tight fit. The pan noses seem to vary a bit. I use a bronze bush on a crank handle which has had a new bit of 3/4" shaft welded on to get around wear in the old shaft. I custom turn down the OD of the new bronze bush, so it is a firm tap-in fit. A little Loctite helps. Once done, I have never had to touch it again.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

I think it’s always a good idea to cover or protect a T radiator when you working directly or close to it.
And especially trying to replace the crank bushing. I park my riding lawnmower directly in front of the 1919 roadster that I have BUT I always place a piece of 3/4 plywood in front of the car JUST IN CASE!
Now that I think of it over the years working in my shop on other equipment the T radiators could have gotten hit but they didn’t.
Mark Nunns hard lesson needs to be listened to! With the cost of another radiator going through the roof these days it’s best be very careful.

I probably should have removed the radiator, but I didn't.

I agree that a hacksaw is handy for removing the old bushing.

I thought the way the old bushing peeled when it was installed was rather remarkable.

I like bronze bushings

There's no need to bang away with a BFH if you press the bushing in with all thread. Note the can of grease to help the bushing slide.


I didn't have to turn down the OD, but I did need to hit the ID with a ¾" reamer to get the crank in.

My ‘24 touring came to me without a crank. I procured one some time ago, but just got around to installing it today (I needed it to move the pistons to the top for cleaning). The ID of the sleeve looked a bit rusty so I ran a bore brush through it, and it came out looking almost new (maybe the crank has been missing for a very long time?). The crank has very little slop in the sleeve. I put light coats of grease both in the sleeve and on the crank and am happy with the fit.