MTFCA Forum

My new 14 has what appears to be a Bakelite or plastic switch cover on the coil box instead of the steel version. Was there a switch that was taking place around this time in production? I have looked at various books on the subject hoping to find a definitive answer. I am rather new at the bass era stuff so please excuse the lack of knowledge.

thanks in advance.

The 1914 and 1915 had different coil boxes and switches, but both were Bakelite with a metal switch plate. The pressed steel cover, started around late 1916. Someone can correct me on that date if is too early.

Thank you, this is very helpful.

The original switch were a hard rubber like material. Reproductions are more like Bakelite Also the cover is a one piece stamped lid.
https://www.mtfca.com/model_t_encyclopedia/ford4725/ --
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This what one is supposed to look like. Note that the cover was brass with raised letters. Current Reproduction plates are black flat lettering silkscreen on brass. I have had a reproduction that was brass with raised letters --
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The one on the right was used with the steel cover

Wonderful info and photos Frank. I can't add much. This is a cover as it was removed when replaced with a New York Switch. It lived untouched in the NY Sw. box for years. We don't see enough of the parts just as they were when they were new.
Rich

Wow, great photos and information guys. The switch on my 14 although functional is in poor shape. That is why I was asking. This way I would know what to look for if I replace it.

Rich Eagle wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 08, 2022 11:30 am

Wonderful info and photos Frank. I can't add much. This is a cover as it was removed when replaced with a New York Switch. It lived untouched in the NY Sw. box for years. We don't see enough of the parts just as they were when they were new.
Rich
SwCvrr.jpg

I have two of the switches that are printed on the face of the box. I'll have to post some photos of the internal design that was intended to prevebnt theft. You couldn't just unscrew the cover and then manually rotate the switch
I've added your photo to my collection with documenting its origin. I believe there may have been some few variations of the the steel cover.

Angmar wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 08, 2022 11:45 am

Wow, great photos and information guys. The switch on my 14 although functional is in poor shape. That is why I was asking. This way I would know what to look for if I replace it.

Oddly enough Flex Seal Paste is a good match. If you have original or even reproduction parts , they are worth a lot of money. email pictures of what you have, I can help you restore it. Its very easy to restore these but need to be careful with the hard rubber parts.

The switch on my 14 although functional is in poor shape.

I haven't seen a lot of those hard rubber switch bodies in good shape. I've seen a lot of broken ones.

FWIW I had good luck redoing mine with bondo.
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=15454&t=1
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/download/file. ... &mode=view

Sorry for the double post.

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 08, 2022 12:21 pm

Angmar wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 08, 2022 11:45 am

Wow, great photos and information guys. The switch on my 14 although functional is in poor shape. That is why I was asking. This way I would know what to look for if I replace it.

Oddly enough Flex Seal Past is a good match. If you have original or even reproduction parts , they are worth a lot of money. email pictures of what you have, I can help you restore it. Its very easy to restore these but need to be careful with the hard rubber parts.

I will send a picture. I had been repaired in the past.

The switch for my 1915 has to have been one of the worst any fool ever tried to restore. Clearly, it sat outside in the weather and bright sunshine for decades!
I began by cleaning and cutting away warped and shrunken material. Then I used a variety of things including electrical tape and pieces of plastic cut from oil containers (glue does not stick to that kind of plastic!) to rig forms around the remaining original material. I filled in the missing material with J B Weld. After setting for a day or two, and filling in additional areas in multiple stages, I filed, shaped and sanded the entire thing. Then I painted it with satin black.
It looks beautiful!

Good ones show up on ebay sometimes. I purchased a NOS switch a few years back. I assume it had been removed by someone who put one of those K.W. switches on. When installing your switch, don't forget to put the white rubber gasket on the back. The K.W. switches in 1913 also used at white rubber gasket.

I ended up using the white 22 gauge wire sheathing off my American Flyer train wire - pulled out the copper wire - fit perfect !