MTFCA Forum

My 2nd wooden bow is broken off at the 90 degree turn for the top on my 1916 Touring, it is the only one that is broken. How do I repair it?

Photos would help...

Would this fix work on yours?
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=12830&p=96088
I can't visualize where your break is.
Rich

here are a couple pictures, let me know if you need anything else.

One method is to cut a slot in both pieces and the shave a dowl to fit the slot and glue in it in as you fit the two pieces together using more tite bound wood glue. Soak both halves with MinWax wood solution.

I think you need some new top bows. What isn't broken yet, soon will be. That bow on the left is especially bad, and in some ways, worse than the one that's broken in two. I don't believe any of them will hold tacks or staples. Sorry...

I gotta agree. Why put a top on a poor base?

This is what Lang"s offers for 1913-1917;

Steam Bent Wood Bows, Touring top bows, 4 piece set, 52" inside dimension, 54" outside dimensions. Bows are 1-1/4" wide and 1" thick.
Conventional steam bent oak top bows. You will have to shape the ends of these bows to fit into the ends of your oval sockets (top irons). Made from oak wood. USA.
Due to the size of this item additional shipping charges will be incurred.
NOTE: This is the top wood only does NOT include the irons.

For $99.95 set of 4, is this my best option? Is this what you would do?

How is the top, material put on the boards? Should I buy the material and have it fitted or purchase it ready to slide on the boards?

If you know of any videos showing fitting the material, top on the boards I would appreciate seeing them.

"For $99.95 set of 4, is this my best option? Is this what you would do?"

Yes, that's what I would do. You're getting 4 bows. That's $25.00 per bow. I have made a top bow. I would not consider doing another to save $25. If you're not handy working with wood, I'd find someone who is, that can help you shape the bows to fit the sockets. Try to not destroy what's left of your bows when you remove them from their sockets. It'll be handy to have them for a pattern.

As you can see from what's left of your bows, the top material is put on with tacks. Some people use staples. For various reasons, I don't prefer staples. Before the top material is put on however, you need to wrap the bows with a thin material called "bowdrill". There's a special process for that to make it come out nice. I'm sure there must be some YouTube vidoes of the process.

Do you have any Model T club chapters in your area? Either MTFCA or MTFCI?

I do have a friend that is handy working with wood, I am sure he will help me.
The closest T club is about an hour away, I talked to them and they said they would try and come and look at my T in a few weeks.

Thank you for the counsel, I am 71 years old but a rookie on the T's.

I am open for any advise I can get.

I pulled all 4 wheels to inspect the componates. I found 2 bad wheel bearings in the front that need replaced and still looking at the front. As for the rear I noticed where the emergency brake rod connects to the rear, the part that connects to the brake shoe, is very loose, has a lot of play, what parts do I need to purchase to tighten this up? How do I remove the worn parts? I looked in the service manual and cannot figure out the nane of the part or how to replace it. I have enclosed a picture, I hope my question makes scene.

I agree - replace the bows. Jonathon Anderson makes some nice ones [jpautowood@gmail.com ]

You didn't mention which bearings were bad. Those in the know suggest replacing the races at the same time.

Regarding the rear brake lever - If it's just a worn bushing, this might be what you want [ Model T Hub brake cam bushing Item Number : 2559 from Lang's Old Car parts -$2.25 ea] [Brake cam lever pin, set of 2- Item Number : 2563B $0.50 pair] - The pin holds the lever on the shaft - remove the shaft and you can get at the bushing. If the lever or brake cam is bad you can replace them too.

here's a link to the brake parts page in their online catalog <https://www.modeltford.com/model-t-parts/brakes/> -------
Snyders <https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/subg ... ?cat=41819> is another good source.

Maybe somebody closer to you will chime in and perhaps be able to take a look at the car. Nothing beats having someone with some experience to point you in the right direction.

I'm 72 and bought my T in 2018. You CAN teach an old dog new tricks

Make sure that the bowdrill is wrapped so that the final seam is on the top of the bow and any tacks are placed on top as well so it will not show when the top cover is installed.

I used some heavy thread and needle to fix a few places where the bowdrill needed some tightening.

When you wrap the bowdrill fabric (on a bias) and have tacked it in place, use a spray bottle of water and dampen the bowdrill, then use a hair drier and dry off the bowdrill completely.

This will shrink the bowdrill and (usually) leave a nice wrinkle free covering showing on the underside of the bows, unless your original wrap is not tight enough. Regards,

Steve Boothroyd
Sidney, B.C.
Canada

Sorry the other pics timed out.

Hope this will work now.

I purchased the bows 4 from Langs for $99. They are more like a 60 or 70 degree angle instead of a 90 degree angle. The guy at Langs said I could cut them off and install them in the brackets and they should be OK. Seams to me like a lot of pressure on the mounting brackets. I did push down on them and they have give but they spring back to original shape when I let go. Any suggestions?

I'm just finishing-up the install of a new top on my dad's 1917 touring. It's the same as your 1916 touring except the rear curtain is three-window instead of a single "tombstone" window.

If you buy all new bows, whatever you do be sure to keep shim that is currently on the original rear bow and install it on the new rear bow. If the shim cannot be re-used, I believe Jon Anderson above sells replacements. The shim is something that is missing on many tops and, if not installed, it makes the rear bow look sway-backed

Note that the factory radiuses on the front bow differs from the second through fourth bows. Also, a factory front bow has no crown while the second through fourth bows have a slight crown. It is my understanding that the bow sets sold by the vendors all have the same radiuses regardless of bow number and that can cause some problems with top installation. I don't know if the reproduction bows have the proper crown for the second through fourth bow. I believe that Jon Anderson makes his bows per the factory drawings so the respective radiuses and crowns should be correct.

I purchased a set from the basement of an antique store in Iowa. The ends were wired together to maintain the 90 degree ends.
I would wire & fixture the bows to finish shape, & steam the corners to set the wood If I were to use them.

For my 14, I used laminated bows. They are perfect & will stay that way.

Steam bent bows should be stored with the ends secured. Tied across with wire will do it. A timber lath tacked across is usual. Sounds like yours were not constrained and they do then tend to revert to something nearer straight. They have straightened too much to be fitted as they are.

I would make a former to match the bends you need. Just one will do, but it will be quicker if you can make two and set them the correct distance apart. Bend some flat steel to the curve needed. Then weld this to any old piece of plate. Boil water in a suitable pot and immerse the bow end in it for a few minutes until the timber is supple. Then clamp one end to your former and draw the bow around the former and clamp the next end. Douse with cold water and tack a restraining timber across the newly bent end to make it hold its shape. Then you are free to repeat the process on the other end. then you can fix a retainer across the bow to hold each end in place until you are ready to fit them into their sockets.

Hope this helps
Allan from down under.

Cut a wooden form matching the curvature of the good side and use it on the broken side to hold the 2 parts of the broken curved bow at the proper curvature then when you have the ends perfectly aligned, cut several strips of fiberglass cloth And place the strips long ways and apply the mixed resin to the cloth. Do two sides, let it cure an turn it over and do the other two sides. Sand smooth, then paint to match the rest of the aged bow color. Jim Patrick