Trailering Questions

Discuss all things Model T related.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
User avatar

Topic author
Oldav8tor
Posts: 1930
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:39 am
First Name: Tim
Last Name: Juhl
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Touring
Location: Thumb of Michigan
MTFCA Number: 50297
MTFCI Number: 24810
Board Member Since: 2018

Trailering Questions

Post by Oldav8tor » Mon Apr 08, 2019 11:10 pm

1) most trailers have smooth wood floors. Is it a good idea to put some kind of non-skid where the tires ride to reduce the tendency of the car to slide to one side or the other? 2) Once the car is positioned and the straps tightened, should the hand brake be set or should you leave the car in neutral, held in place only by the straps?
1917 Touring
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor

User avatar

Steve Jelf
Posts: 6463
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
MTFCA Number: 16175
MTFCI Number: 14758
Board Member Since: 2007
Contact:

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by Steve Jelf » Mon Apr 08, 2019 11:26 pm

I don't see any reason not to set the hand brake. I think I've always done that when hauling a car.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


Peter, Memphis TN
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 12:00 pm
First Name: Peter
Last Name: Claverie
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Touring
Location: Memphis, TN

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by Peter, Memphis TN » Mon Apr 08, 2019 11:31 pm

Most folks cris-cross the tie-downs, making it almost impossible for the tires to slip around.

In terms of the hand brake, leaving it on makes it less likely that the car will roll off the trailer when you un-do the straps. Seems like a good safety idea.


Jeff Hood
Posts: 186
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:25 pm
First Name: Jeff
Last Name: Hood
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Touring, 1923 Fordor, 1924 Martin Parry Canopy Express, 1925 Coupe
Location: Long Beach, CA.
MTFCA Number: 25636

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by Jeff Hood » Mon Apr 08, 2019 11:51 pm

My old trailer has a narrow door and I only have about an inch clearance on each side. I put guide rails on the floor to keep me straight going in and out, and it also keeps the car from moving around as you fear.

User avatar

BE_ZERO_BE
Posts: 541
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:27 pm
First Name: BOB
Last Name: CASCISA
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 TOURING
Location: POULSBO, WA
MTFCA Number: 16897
MTFCI Number: 16628

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by BE_ZERO_BE » Tue Apr 09, 2019 12:40 am

Setting the hand brake can be a useful practice. :( :( :(

JELF OOPS.jpg
Respectfully Submitted,
Be_Zero_Be

I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter :D

For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.


Allan
Posts: 5205
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
First Name: Allan
Last Name: Bennett
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
Location: Gawler, Australia

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by Allan » Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:47 am

Tim, my open trailer has a smooth steel deck, not even checkerplate. The key to stopping movement on any surface is to tie the car DOWN. Wheel baskets do this. Short tiedowns at 45 degrees do like wise. Long tiedowns at low angles will stop fore and aft movement, but will allow the car to shift sideways. Likewise, tiedowns used around the frame will be alternatively loose and tight as the suspension works, again allowing the car to shift around.

Others may have different experiences.

Allan from down under.


Don D
Posts: 284
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:36 pm
First Name: Don
Last Name: Demio
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 T
Location: Tennessee
MTFCA Number: 27167
MTFCI Number: 20405

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by Don D » Tue Apr 09, 2019 10:44 am

Tim,

Attached are several photos of my open and closed trailers that both use 2" wide, 3 ft. long metal straps with two angled wings (3rd photo) that go over each tire to hold my T down during transport. I do use the hand brake in addition to the tie downs. The enclosed trailer channel on the right in the 2nd photo and on the left in the last photo is 6" wide 2X3s so the T is always centered and will not move. The angle cut on the inside 2X3 is to aid the rear wheel to enter the channel. Let know if you have any questions that I may be able to help you with excluding next week's winning lottery numbers. :-)

Have a great day,
Dom
T Trailer 1.JPG
IMG_1005.JPG
Attachments
Model T Tire Hold Down Strap.jpg
Trailer Channel for Model T.jpg
Trailer Channel for Model T.jpg (53.41 KiB) Viewed 4138 times
IMG_0998.JPG


Scott_Conger
Posts: 6431
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
First Name: Scott
Last Name: Conger
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
Location: Clark, WY
Board Member Since: 2005

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by Scott_Conger » Tue Apr 09, 2019 3:00 pm

Tim

I painted my floor with Benjamin and Moore grey deck paint. Someone here on the forum suggested it and it is GREAT.

I've also found that the ramp is the slickest thing on the planet when wet and when I took delivery of my trailer, on my own belief that it would be a good thing, I applied 2 coats of roll-on pickup bed liner on the ramp. BEST THING I EVER DID. Tremendous grip wet or dry and takes abuse and shrugs it off.
Scott Conger

Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny

NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured


HaroldRJr
Posts: 169
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:13 am
First Name: Harold
Last Name: Schwendeman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: several
Location: Sumner, WA

Re: Trailering Questions

Post by HaroldRJr » Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:08 am

Scott Conger beat me to it! I was going to make the same suggestion for a non-skid coating on the bare wood trailer floor. He mentioned "pickup bed liner" and that's what I did. Something like Rhino Liner or Linex makes a very tough and very black non-skid floor coating which is impervious to oil, gasoline, anti-freeze, etc, etc. I had a Linex coating put on my entire enclosed trailer bare wood floor and ramp when the trailer was brand new. It's pretty expensive, but the dealer I bought the trailer from had a "half-price" deal with the local Linex place and half price makes a big difference! A trailer floor & ramp is a much larger surface than the average pickup truck bed, and I'll bet you could convince a Rhino Liner or Linex dealer to work with you on a better "price-per-square foot" rate on such a large surface. Still pretty expensive, but it sure makes a very tough floor, and I think, worth whatever it costs! FWIW,.....harold

User avatar

FreighTer Jim
Posts: 1724
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:50 am
First Name: James
Last Name: Jarzabek
Location: Dayton, OH
MTFCA Number: 29562
MTFCI Number: 24398
Board Member Since: 2008
Contact:

My Solution

Post by FreighTer Jim » Wed Apr 10, 2019 10:34 am

Regarding covering a wood trailer floor .... :idea:

Horse stall rubber mats - 4 ft. x 6 ft.

Available at Tractor Supply or other farm & garden
retailers @ $40 a mat.

Easy to replace if torn or damaged by gas or solvent spills.

This wood trailer floor is (10) months old and sees
daily use - yet maintains it’s “ good looks.

By spacing my etrac to accommodate the floor mats - shifting is minimal.

Vehicles to not wander on the rubber mats
if secured properly to the


FJ

A5A49B25-3E83-4F95-9285-03BF9BC8421A.jpeg
Google “ Model T Transport “
MTFCA - MTFCI - MAFCA Member

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic