body work
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Topic author - Posts: 68
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2021 5:47 pm
- First Name: Andy
- Last Name: Apjok
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 Touring
- Location: Indiana, PA
body work
I am ready to start the body work on my 1916 Touring, there is a lot of surface rust on the inside and out. I would like to remove this support for the back seat so I can get at the rust better. Does it come out? Know of any videos?
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- Posts: 3907
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
- MTFCA Number: 28924
Re: body work
The rear fender irons are attached to the sides of the seat frame by three bolts each.
If I remember the rear sheet metal panel may be tacked underneath to the wood cross piece.
You will have to crawl under to look closely and see. If it is the seat frame may be to in some way attached underneath to it also. Look closely in the inside for any other screws or tacks that are securing it the the sills.
Some body makers may be slightly different than others in this era from one another so be prepared to find this out. They weren’t all exactly alike in the details.
Others will give more information I’m sure.
If I remember the rear sheet metal panel may be tacked underneath to the wood cross piece.
You will have to crawl under to look closely and see. If it is the seat frame may be to in some way attached underneath to it also. Look closely in the inside for any other screws or tacks that are securing it the the sills.
Some body makers may be slightly different than others in this era from one another so be prepared to find this out. They weren’t all exactly alike in the details.
Others will give more information I’m sure.
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- Posts: 2272
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:25 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: House
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘10 Maxwell AA, ‘11Hupp Model 20, Two 1914 Ford runabouts, 19 centerdoor, 25 C Cab,26 roadster
- Location: Northern Caldwell County TX
- MTFCA Number: 115
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- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: body work
Sheet metal looks to be in great shape with just superficial rust. I’d mix up a 50/50 water and Ospho and brush it on. Then it can be spray painted after drying. Removing 106 year old wood from 106 year old wood wouldn’t portend a result as structurally sound as it is now....
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people
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- Posts: 3907
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
- MTFCA Number: 28924
Re: body work
I agree with George that if the wood and structure is still sound use air to blow out all the dirt and etc and use a brush on rust preventer. Then brush or spray the inside completely. Sometimes doing less in some area than more is better in the long run.
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- Posts: 147
- Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2021 1:43 pm
- First Name: Tyler
- Last Name: Prondzinski
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Coupe
- Location: Spring Grove, Illinois
- Board Member Since: 2021
Re: body work
I am going to go the other direction and say go the 3xtra mile. If you are restoring the car, do it right and remove as much of the rust as possible (sandblasting is the best). I am not a fan of rust converters or preventers. Professional shops that restore lots of cars don't use it for a reason.
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- Posts: 5413
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:56 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: Brandi
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Speedster (1919 w 1926)
- Location: Moline IL
- Board Member Since: 2018
Re: body work
I have used both of the Rustoleum products recently. The GEL product is useful for large items - says to keep the product moist when applying it, so I applied and covered with plastic wrap. The REFORMER works well on parts with a dust of rust on them and as a primer. The painted parts look like the have a black oxide finish. You might just try to wire brush some loose stuff off the panel and spray some REFORMER on it and then decide what needs to be take apart
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- rust prods.png (280.18 KiB) Viewed 1221 times
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- MTFCA Number: 50126
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: body work
I would sand that surface rust off down to the bare metal, vacuum the rust dust out, clean with lacquer thinner and prime with red oxide primer. Jim Patrick
PS. Sandblasting has been known to distort and deform the metal panels.
PS. Sandblasting has been known to distort and deform the metal panels.
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- Posts: 5207
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: body work
Sandblasting is risky on big flat panels. Down low next to the folded under edge may be OK. I too am in the remove rather than convert rust party.
Being a woodworker, I would remove the seat support. Then,you can replace any suspect pieces. New wood will bring new life to the structure, will hold screws better, and will flex as needed.
Allan from down under.
Being a woodworker, I would remove the seat support. Then,you can replace any suspect pieces. New wood will bring new life to the structure, will hold screws better, and will flex as needed.
Allan from down under.
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- Posts: 147
- Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2021 1:43 pm
- First Name: Tyler
- Last Name: Prondzinski
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Coupe
- Location: Spring Grove, Illinois
- Board Member Since: 2021
Re: body work
Like many things, sandblasting requires someone who knows what they are doing. It is quite simple actually and most of the horror stories come from shops that don't do a lot of sheet metal work or by people who just picked up the nozzle and have no idea. Pressure is what causes the warping, not heat. Keep moving and you will be fine.
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- Posts: 6431
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: body work
Ospho and scotch-brite pads after the wood is out. Several go-rounds and every pit will be clean down to the parent metal. Used according to the label and the metal will remain rust-free for months in humid Florida, or years in dry environment like Wyoming. I've done it in both places and now, years later are still very pleased with how it holds up whether it's just bare or after painting. Now, if you are one of the folks who know better than the manufacturer as to how it is supposed to be used, then results may be unfavorable, though I have found it a difficult product to misuse. I have fenders which were treated thusly and after significant handling for "ding" removal, and welding to replace rotted metal, 2 years later does not even show hand prints though it is still bare steel. I hope to get those particular parts to the painter this year.
Personally, I view the rust in the photo to be merely surface rust and if that is correct, this treatment is ideal for it.
Personally, I view the rust in the photo to be merely surface rust and if that is correct, this treatment is ideal for it.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured