MTFCA Forum

Does the linkage go under or over the lower radiator hose? When I got mine it was routed under. Currently the rod connection at the timer is rubbing against the belt when fully advanced and has been for awhile before I bought it. I’m assuming that I need to bend the rod to lengthen it. I have the tool to check the timing.

Timing rod goes under radiator hose. Take a look at some of our suppliers catalog listings for the rod and if yours is bent or twisted any differently it may be advantageous just to buy another rod replacement.

...... After you set your initial timing, any adjustment to the rod should be made at the bend closest to the bend that goes under the radiator hose to either shorten or lengthen the rod for the initial timing with a spark lever all the way up.

the timing fixture that the suppliers sell is good for a correctly made FORD style roller timer. Any other timer will end up with suspect timing. Do a forum search for timing and learn how to get the engine set at 15.5 degrees ATDC and a coil just starting to spark.

Often, when a belt rubs the timer it is due to an incorrect belt length...on earlier cars, the fan pivots on an arm and depending on the length of the belt and angle of the arm, the belt can be allowed to run too close to the timer. This is the configuration I am familiar with, though yours being an improved car, adjusts with a cam at the inlet and I am not sure if that would allow a belt to get that far over.

In any case, be very careful and very sure about your timing, and until you know which timer you're dealing with, proceed with caution...in the end it is smart to know the mechanical method of timing as I wrote about above.

Scott gives good advice to carefully set your initial timing. That will place the timer case at the right spot. Then you fit the rod to the timer case, and to help keep that case locked in place, tighten the bolt on the case flat bar spring, so it doesn't move from that spot, as you fit the timer rod to it. Release tension slightly on the case spring when all is done.

The timer rod goes under the metal pipe, not the hose.

Trim that lower hose to 2 3/4" length as that is the correct factory, repro hoses can come in other lengths.


And for adjusting that timer rod to length, bend it only at the upper wide loop just over the timer case, easy to extend or shorter that long bend and never disturb the fit under the lower inlet pipe.


Here is the the set up for a pre-26


And here is your '26, the Improved car uses the same lower hose length too.


Here is the wide loop or curve over the timer case, that is where to bend the rod to fit the timer case rod socket.

Pretty nice black paint on the fan blades, Dan. How come mine never look that good?

I forgot to mention this car has a water pump. I also just installed a new, factory roller timer.

"I forgot to mention this car has a water pump." //// Do not attempt to flee. You are surrounded. Officers of the Water Pump Police will contact you shortly.

RGould1910 wrote: ↑

Sun May 22, 2022 10:12 am

Pretty nice black paint on the fan blades, Dan. How come mine never look that good?

Quality gloss black enamel spray bomb paint, double wet coats, baked dried in Florida sunshine

The first T I bought was a 26 roadster. It had a water pump when I bought it and has a rod which goes over the hose. The timer works fine with that arrangement. I removed the water pump and use just the neck on the block with the two piece hose with pipe between but still have the same timer rod.
My other two T's have the rod under the hose. I will agree with the pulley on the arm attached the length of the belt is too long it will interfere with the timer. Also true of the later pulley on the upper hose connection. The belt can be tightened by turning it either way, but you need to turn it in the direction away from the timer to get it to work without a drag.
Norm

Ok. We got that done. Seems like it improved the low speed driving some. Not nearly as much skipping. Not much of an improvement on high speed, though.

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Sun May 22, 2022 6:25 pm

Ok. We got that done. Seems like it improved the low speed driving some. Not nearly as much skipping. Not much of an improvement on high speed, though.

Get those coils checked yet?

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Sun May 22, 2022 7:15 pm

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Sun May 22, 2022 6:25 pm

Ok. We got that done. Seems like it improved the low speed driving some. Not nearly as much skipping. Not much of an improvement on high speed, though.

Get those coils checked yet?

Not yet. Next, I suppose? I was going to replace the manifold gaskets next, but….

I'd get the ignition system working properly. The engine will never run well unless the ignition is working right. With igntion problems off the table, you can more easily determine what further work might be needed, if any. A perfectly set up engine will run like a bucket of monkey squirt if the ignition is faulty.

Did you spray the manifold gaskets & determined there is a vacuum leak, or is this the next shot in the dark?

Coils!
Second to the timer is the coils for good running. Do the major stuff before the minor.
If they check ok, then this part of the diagnosis is put to bed.
They wont check out. Betting 20-1.
As I mentioned in past posts a HCCT test @ a minimum will get the coils to a good running tune.
An ECCT tune will get them to the best possible tune IMO from experience.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑

Sun May 22, 2022 8:48 pm

I'd get the ignition system working properly. The engine will never run well unless the ignition is working right. With igntion problems off the table, you can more easily determine what further work might be needed, if any. A perfectly set up engine will run like a bucket of monkey squirt if the ignition is faulty.

Well said.
There is still the possibility of coil box or other electrical issues, but you wont find them or know to look elsewhere until the coils are right.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Sun May 22, 2022 8:55 pm

Did you spray the manifold gaskets & determined there is a vacuum leak, or is this the next shot in the dark?

Coils!
Second to the timer is the coils for good running. Do the major stuff before the minor.
If they check ok, then this part of the diagnosis is put to bed.
They wont check out. Betting 20-1.
As I mentioned in past posts a HCCT test @ a minimum will get the coils to a good running tune.
An ECCT tune will get them to the best possible tune IMO from experience.

I haven’t sprayed the manifolds yet. I have soot from the exhaust manifold coating the intake manifold and the car sounds truckish. Thinking if that’s bad the intake might not be good, either.

T Exhaust manifolds are prone to warping and cracking. Problems can develop where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold, too. The T manifolds are separate, and the intake is less likely to crack, warp, of suffer blown gaskets. It has far less heat stress and pressure on it than does the exhaust mannifold . That doesn't make it leak proof, but it is less likely to leak than the exhaust, and a lot more likley to only need good gaskets if it does leak. A bad exhaust manifold will need replaced, in most cases.