MTFCA Forum

Mashed a bit too hard on my starter switch today. Good thing i had a spare.... bent, loose and wobbly. It shorted out and the arc sound was spectacular. Did a bit of welding.....

That's a modern replacement, and they often fail at that point. In my experience, they also have inadequate material in the spring contacts within the switch. They seem to lack 'spring' to recoil the bridge from the base contacts, causing them to 'weld' on.
A good original is far better if you can find one. I posted one for sale recently, but perhaps he postage inclusion made it too dear for some.

Allan from down under.

Hi Allan!
I'm planning on mounting a switch on the metal seat base behind my legs. I have the battery disconnect switch mounted there and was handy today preventing fire. That switch disconnect is a Lang item.
For the interim I replaced the starter switch with another that is of different design. The replacement is taller, silver finish, that's snaped like a bullet. Is this a better switch?

Professor Fate wrote: ↑

Wed May 25, 2022 1:01 am

Hi Allan!
I'm planning on mounting a switch on the metal seat base behind my legs. I have the battery disconnect switch mounted there and was handy today preventing fire. That switch disconnect is a Lang item.
For the interim I replaced the starter switch with another that is of different design. The replacement is taller, silver finish, that's snaped like a bullet. Is this a better switch?

The problem with the current reproduction switches is that the tube hold the plunger is affixed to the base with 4 bent over table (not the tabs holding the mechanism to the large plate). The plunger only needs to be depressed about 1/2" or so to make contact. So that's all the plinger head needs to be above t he floor board. Any higher will put too much force on tube.

This very reasonable priced one is the type that had the top come off my switch while I was driving.

The only option was to pull over and shut off the engine, then quickly remove the battery terminal.

Save the mounting plate, as it can be used to mount a solenoid.

Then you can hide a small starter button to trigger the solenoid.

From a friend I got some starter switches ,
They are very old , I think atleast 40 year .,but never used .
I am very happy with them .
They are Bosch # 0343200001
Toon

The replacement switch is pictured. Is this a good switch it at least better than the failed one I had?? It just sits too high. Not easy for me to get to.

I'm still going to a push button or pull knob to be mounted next to my main cutoff switch on the metal seat bottom between my knees.

Having the main cutoff there was excellent to provide a quick response to a major short yesterday.

Professor Fate wrote: ↑

Wed May 25, 2022 4:51 pm

The replacement switch is pictured. Is this a good switch it at least better than the failed one I had?? It just sits too high. Not easy for me to get to.

I'm still going to a push button or pull knob to be mounted next to my main cutoff switch on the metal seat bottom between my knees.

Having the main cutoff there was excellent to provide a quick response to a major short yesterday.

The extension is wrong here. Take it off.
If the top of the switch is not quite high enough to just activate, put some spacers under the switch base.
Is it mounted on top of the frame now?

Not only is that switch to high but the hole is too big. I’ve seen too many people get in there and push the switch sideways as they’re pushing it down and that messes the switch up

Farmer J wrote: ↑

Wed May 25, 2022 5:13 pm

Not only is that switch to high but the hole is too big. I’ve seen too many people get in there and push the switch sideways as they’re pushing it down and that messes the switch up

That might be a way to extend the life of those super crappy replacement switches.
I doubt a large hole matters to the longevity of the original Ford supplied switch.
The problems with starter switches points back to really poor quality repo parts.
Havent we all learned, from past posts, that using original switches is the way to go?

If that cheap switch was pushed down in a straight line it would have lasted longer. I think I would find an original switch and be done with it. They are fairly easy to find.

Thank you all for the info.

I'll be looking for a push/pull to mount next to my battery cutoff. Easy access.
******************************
What amp # should I use on the next switch? 30 or 35 amp ???

Professor Fate wrote: ↑

Wed May 25, 2022 6:19 pm

Thank you all for the info.

I'll be looking for a push/pull to mount next to my battery cutoff. Easy access.
******************************
What amp # should I use on the next switch? 30 or 35 amp ???

To do what?
Push/pull for starter? ??
Looking @ past post specs, starter motor 160 amp draw min.
30 amps "push button" switch would work fine to activate a SOLENOID.

Excellent point!

I used the above diagram to rewire my starter thru a solenoid via a push button. No more foot stomping starter switch.
Used a 6v '48-'51 ford truck solenoid with 3 posts and a 20 amp pushbutton. I did put a 25 amp fuse on the power side of the pushbutton.
I'll be adding another fuse on the yellow wire on the wiring harness. I already have a battery kill switch that came in handy the other day when the starter switch welded itself ON.
Thanks everyone for the help and insight.

A 25A fuse can easily protect the entire car, as typically, the fuse is rated at 125% of the protected load. I'm guessing the solenoid is not a 20A load, so that's a lot of fuse you intend to use for just one circuit. So long as the wiring is 12 ga, you'll be fine though.

Here's a link to a fellow who installed a kit that is available to the hobby, which protects the entire harness: http://www.cimorelli.com/pdf/fp-fusekit-optimized.pdf

really, all you need is just one fuse...

I did use 12g wire. Another fuse to go on the yellow hot wire soon.

I recommend a cut off switch within quick reach. Saved my bacon last week!