Tool question
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Topic author - Posts: 543
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:32 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: Mills
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Roadster, 1919 Hack, 1925 Fordor
- Location: Cherry Hill NJ/Anona Largo FL
- MTFCA Number: 29497
- MTFCI Number: 10032
- Board Member Since: 1999
Tool question
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, my 39 y/o son who lost interest at 16 has now awakened to the fun of a T when I took my grandson of 13 out and taught him how to drive the Hack. So the son decides that I’ll never hand crank the 15 in the stable again (true) and we might as well have an estate distribution now…with his promise to keep it always up to snuff…and available for rides when I blow into town 1000 miles away. Bada bing…before the thought fells he and his older bro decide to load it up and move it out. (I am actually cool with this transfer as with but one leg that can rotate, balance on cranking may be hilarious- and there are more than a few of starter equipped T still in the stable)
Anyway!
I decided to gift him a year appropriate tool kit and have a question…should it take the socket head head wrench or the box end? I have both and other sources say the socket end was appropriate for a 15?
Here’s the work in progress. I just wipe down old stuff…hit any bare steel or iron with Phospho, and the brightwork? That’s the haha…when this son was 11 he was not allowed to wrench yet even though he could drive the ‘15. His job for tours and outings? Polish the brass! He was darn good at it…so he gets to do the brightwork when he gets it.
The pliers are soaking and a proper square shank screwdriver is on its way to me. I KNOW the Aeolus double barrel has a black rubber sheath over the cloth covered rubber hose, and others will say it’s suppose to be just plain red rubber. My pump, my choice, it has era proper end and brass fittings if you look close and it came to me that way
Anyway!
I decided to gift him a year appropriate tool kit and have a question…should it take the socket head head wrench or the box end? I have both and other sources say the socket end was appropriate for a 15?
Here’s the work in progress. I just wipe down old stuff…hit any bare steel or iron with Phospho, and the brightwork? That’s the haha…when this son was 11 he was not allowed to wrench yet even though he could drive the ‘15. His job for tours and outings? Polish the brass! He was darn good at it…so he gets to do the brightwork when he gets it.
The pliers are soaking and a proper square shank screwdriver is on its way to me. I KNOW the Aeolus double barrel has a black rubber sheath over the cloth covered rubber hose, and others will say it’s suppose to be just plain red rubber. My pump, my choice, it has era proper end and brass fittings if you look close and it came to me that way
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- Posts: 310
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 9:01 am
- First Name: Russ
- Last Name: Furstnow
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 Touring, 1913 Touring, 1914 Runabout, 1915 Coupelet, 1916 Coupelet
- Location: Flagstaff, AZ
- MTFCA Number: 28
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- MTFCI Number: 10546
Re: Tool question
George, This is the kit I displayed for the Stynoski Award with my 1915 Coupelet. I hope thishelps. Russ Furstnow
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- Posts: 310
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 9:01 am
- First Name: Russ
- Last Name: Furstnow
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 Touring, 1913 Touring, 1914 Runabout, 1915 Coupelet, 1916 Coupelet
- Location: Flagstaff, AZ
- MTFCA Number: 28
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- MTFCI Number: 10546
Re: Tool question
Here is an original 1915 "Tool List" that came with each 1915 car when sent from the factory. Russ Furstnow
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- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Tool question
George, as far as I know, the socket end plug wrench is correct for 1915. Your new screwdriver will look good in that lot.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- Posts: 522
- Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2022 8:27 am
- First Name: Richard
- Last Name: C
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Touring
- Location: Clarksville, Virginia
- MTFCA Number: 52098
Re: Tool question
Love it!George Mills wrote: ↑Fri Jun 10, 2022 6:49 pmand the brightwork? That’s the haha…when this son was 11 he was not allowed to wrench yet even though he could drive the ‘15. His job for tours and outings? Polish the brass! He was darn good at it…so he gets to do the brightwork when he gets it.
The only thing better than getting even or paying back your kids is when you can help your grandkids get them instead of you!
Socialism is resentment disguised as compassion enforced by tyranny disguised as tolerance.
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Topic author - Posts: 543
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:32 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: Mills
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Roadster, 1919 Hack, 1925 Fordor
- Location: Cherry Hill NJ/Anona Largo FL
- MTFCA Number: 29497
- MTFCI Number: 10032
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Tool question
Russ and Allen,
Thanks so much for your insight and advice. I’ll swap out the head wrench to the socket end type which I already have.
I’ll forge up a couple of tire irons out of scrap bar..I forgot about them as I had made up some custom spoons from modern brake ratchet adjusters about 25 years ago, they work great and don’t pinch on the clinchers, and walk around a rim real easy with one in each hand, lifting as they go.
Thanks again…
Love the comment on motivating the kid thru the grandkid. Works for me!
Thanks so much for your insight and advice. I’ll swap out the head wrench to the socket end type which I already have.
I’ll forge up a couple of tire irons out of scrap bar..I forgot about them as I had made up some custom spoons from modern brake ratchet adjusters about 25 years ago, they work great and don’t pinch on the clinchers, and walk around a rim real easy with one in each hand, lifting as they go.
Thanks again…
Love the comment on motivating the kid thru the grandkid. Works for me!
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- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Tool question
George, I have at least one pair of original tyre levers in my swap meet stocks if you want them, like the ones in Riss's photo. They were in one of my cars but I found some Made in Canada ones with the factory number stamped in them, so they are now surplus to requirements.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2019 8:38 pm
- First Name: Rick
- Last Name: Gunter
- Location: Springfield, MO
Re: Tool question
Haven't posted in this forum for a few years. I know there have been several discussions in the past about the factory toolkits and not all questions have been solved. I'm not certain what the "Repair kit (tire)" would have looked like in 1915. Here is a photo of the one that Ford began using in 1914, when they began manufacturing their own kit. They were probably still using this one in 1915, but I'm not sure.
Also, I'm not sure what "Jack" would have been issued in 1915. This photo is the jack (on the right) supplied in 1914 that was made by Buckeye. Was it still used in 1915? Or were they using a version of it that did not say "Ford" on the side? Or was one used from another supplier?
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- Posts: 29
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2019 8:38 pm
- First Name: Rick
- Last Name: Gunter
- Location: Springfield, MO
Re: Tool question
Apparently, each car came with a Ford Manual and a Parts List. One question I've have always had is: What about the "Model T Instruction Book"? Where did those come from? Did they come with a new car, or did you have to get one from a Ford dealer?
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- Posts: 3296
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '23 cutoff, '25 touring, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- MTFCA Number: 4838
- MTFCI Number: 115
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: Tool question
The ‘Ford Manual’ , noted in the tool packing list, provided with each car , is that Instruction Book.
It contains info for the owner to operate and maintain the Ford.
Only much later , in 1924 , Ford provided to garages or dealers the famous book with photos and detailed methods of repair, that we know as Ford Service or ‘repair manual’.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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- Posts: 1314
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:20 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Jablonski
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
- Location: New Jersey
- MTFCA Number: 407
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Tool question
Hey George..... Educate me on tool cleaning/preserving please,,, you said " I just wipe down old stuff…hit any bare steel or iron with Phospho " .... what is Phospho and where is it available ?? Thanks , Bob J.
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Topic author - Posts: 543
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:32 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: Mills
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 Roadster, 1919 Hack, 1925 Fordor
- Location: Cherry Hill NJ/Anona Largo FL
- MTFCA Number: 29497
- MTFCI Number: 10032
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Tool question
Hey Bob,
The house in Florida is only a mile from salt water, and sunset causes a breeze every day...it can be a bay breeze from Tampa Bay or a Gulf Breeze...but based on where you live, you know what's next...
Charcoal grills, patio sets, and anything ferric lasts on the order of 3-4 years no matter how gentle you are with it. Soooo...I read one day about orthophosphoric acid being something that was really neat at arresting any existing rust, like stopping it dead in its tracks when you let it dry for 24 full hours before trying something else. (It apparently pickles a micro finish and the ferric part can't breath any more and is passive). Commercially, I bought something called OSPHO for maintenance on all my outdoor stuff. It not only worked fantastic...it is now going on 3 years on the patio stuff and no signs of encroachment (that does have a Rustoleum Appliance finish now), did it without painting on the b-b-q cooker, and have used it as touchup on the non-cooking surface of my gas griddle that sits out all year.
Then there was a period where there was a lot of blow...a lot of mist swirling about and all of that made its way around the garage door ends...and everything in my garage that possibly could have then flashed off fuzzy since we were up north and it cooked for months, including the tools in the back of the Hack. Solid fuzz?...orthophosphoric acid?...what would happen is I did NOT wire brush the fuzz and just brush painted it with OSPHO? Everything now looks like it was black oxided! (It sort of was....I think). Some grew a white fuzz in places after drying, but apparently that wipes right off as it has not returned and the spots are still black. I have subsequently wiped everything with an oiled cloth, but as aggressive as the area is, everything totally still at bay!
I doubt that it is a durable finish without further painting, but my experience is it looks pretty good for stuff that just sits in a box. I'll shoot you a further picture when my 1915 tool set gets done, I'm just waiting for my tire irons to arrive from Australia, and my era square shank screwdriver that got delivered to the Florida sons house, that I want to include in the picture...
BTW...I was going to leave the double barrel tire pump tarnished for Steven to polish later? Dan T. got me curious on this stuff called Flitz. Holy Cow...that crap works in about 2 seconds...then lots of water flush...then a 5 minute polish with the Flitz paste. THAT stuff is AMAZING on brass! Funny, didn't do so well on the copper plated oil can. Better than when I started, there is shine here and there, but no amount of effort is going to make a transition like it did on the brass.
BTW2 orthophosphoric acid (OSPHO) is mean stuff so follow the label if you decide to try. I let it dribble from the brush over a 45 year old driveway and didn't notice til the next morning. Those dribble spots look like brand new concrete, and I zapped them with Ammonia to kill any further chemical reaction...
The house in Florida is only a mile from salt water, and sunset causes a breeze every day...it can be a bay breeze from Tampa Bay or a Gulf Breeze...but based on where you live, you know what's next...
Charcoal grills, patio sets, and anything ferric lasts on the order of 3-4 years no matter how gentle you are with it. Soooo...I read one day about orthophosphoric acid being something that was really neat at arresting any existing rust, like stopping it dead in its tracks when you let it dry for 24 full hours before trying something else. (It apparently pickles a micro finish and the ferric part can't breath any more and is passive). Commercially, I bought something called OSPHO for maintenance on all my outdoor stuff. It not only worked fantastic...it is now going on 3 years on the patio stuff and no signs of encroachment (that does have a Rustoleum Appliance finish now), did it without painting on the b-b-q cooker, and have used it as touchup on the non-cooking surface of my gas griddle that sits out all year.
Then there was a period where there was a lot of blow...a lot of mist swirling about and all of that made its way around the garage door ends...and everything in my garage that possibly could have then flashed off fuzzy since we were up north and it cooked for months, including the tools in the back of the Hack. Solid fuzz?...orthophosphoric acid?...what would happen is I did NOT wire brush the fuzz and just brush painted it with OSPHO? Everything now looks like it was black oxided! (It sort of was....I think). Some grew a white fuzz in places after drying, but apparently that wipes right off as it has not returned and the spots are still black. I have subsequently wiped everything with an oiled cloth, but as aggressive as the area is, everything totally still at bay!
I doubt that it is a durable finish without further painting, but my experience is it looks pretty good for stuff that just sits in a box. I'll shoot you a further picture when my 1915 tool set gets done, I'm just waiting for my tire irons to arrive from Australia, and my era square shank screwdriver that got delivered to the Florida sons house, that I want to include in the picture...
BTW...I was going to leave the double barrel tire pump tarnished for Steven to polish later? Dan T. got me curious on this stuff called Flitz. Holy Cow...that crap works in about 2 seconds...then lots of water flush...then a 5 minute polish with the Flitz paste. THAT stuff is AMAZING on brass! Funny, didn't do so well on the copper plated oil can. Better than when I started, there is shine here and there, but no amount of effort is going to make a transition like it did on the brass.
BTW2 orthophosphoric acid (OSPHO) is mean stuff so follow the label if you decide to try. I let it dribble from the brush over a 45 year old driveway and didn't notice til the next morning. Those dribble spots look like brand new concrete, and I zapped them with Ammonia to kill any further chemical reaction...
-
- Posts: 3296
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '23 cutoff, '25 touring, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- MTFCA Number: 4838
- MTFCI Number: 115
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: Tool question
Probably Ospho, good rust remover and metal treatment
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
-
- Posts: 1314
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:20 pm
- First Name: Robert
- Last Name: Jablonski
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Runabout
- Location: New Jersey
- MTFCA Number: 407
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Tool question
Okay, thanks Dan and George........ Need quality hazmat suit, rubber boots , head mask and double rubber gloves and oxygen tank.