MTFCA Forum

I finished swapping the engine/trans over on two of my T's and now i plan to swap the rear ends.
Considering both ball joints (transmission connect) have been apart and i haven't wired the bolts up yet would you undo them at the ball joint again or tackle the other end of the tube at the diff head?

Also one is a small drum (23) and the other a large drum (26). Is there any difference or modification needed to connect the handbrake rods due to the drum size difference?

Would you leave the spring on the axle and swap that over also?

Thanks in advance

The parking brake rods are different as is the radius rods. I leave the rear spring in the frame.

I think you need to include some pictures of what you have taken apart so far.
It is my understanding that if each axle had its torque tube and radius rods all connected the only other item to include in the swap would be the brake rods. You would swap everything as a unit not some of this and some of that

All the clearances in the differential are already set. If you remove at the back, it will have to be re-set and if not, will not wear very well. Also might be a different gear ratio. You should remove the spring shackles and also disconnect the ball joint. The brake rods will also need to be changed. The parking brakes will also need to be adjusted to the the car.
Norm

Thanks Guys.
As far as the rear ends I haven't started anything yet.
I have completed the engine swap and now both cars are drivable so I will be starting this process with complete cars from scratch.

I just had a good look underneath both cars including a measure up and everything as far as length looks to be the same.
I'm leaning towards remove the brake rods off each car, undo the ball swivel joint at the trans and undo the top spring body mount then slide it out and swap over.
I hear what your saying about brakes will need adjustment afterwards but Is there a reason removing the spring from the body and leaving on the axle wont work? Are the rear springs the same size and dimension from 23 to 26?

Thanks

You could pull the spring with it but I have found that to do that the car has to be up pretty high to clear the crossmember. I just pulled the axle then the spring and revwrse assembled it after I worked on them.

Arent the frame & spring profiles different on 26-7's to earlier T's?

The springs can differ according to the weight of the body. The Depot Hack would be heavier than a speedster. I would suggest you leave the springs in the frame and remove the shackles to do the swap.
Norm

Good points guys. Yes the Hack would be much heavier in the rear and if the spring profiles could be different best I avoid the hassle and leave them in each car.
If I undo the spring ends on each side above the axle do they need spread for removal/refit or do you adjust the width by lifting up the body?

Thanks

Rata Road wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 15, 2022 5:00 pm

Good points guys. Yes the Hack would be much heavier in the rear and if the spring profiles could be different best I avoid the hassle and leave them in each car.
If I undo the spring ends on each side above the axle do they need spread for removal/refit or do you adjust the width by lifting up the body?

Thanks

You use 2 jacks ( do not lift the rear end by the center pumpkin) & 2X4's under the spring shackles. With a 2X4 in place, jack until the shackle reaches a neutral load position. Of course, the rear frame needs to be raised & held. Tall jack stands or a sky hook.

Rata Road wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 15, 2022 5:00 pm

Good points guys. Yes the Hack would be much heavier in the rear and if the spring profiles could be different best I avoid the hassle and leave them in each car.
If I undo the spring ends on each side above the axle do they need spread for removal/refit or do you adjust the width by lifting up the body?

Thanks

There is tension on the spring ends. see this discussion http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1481257349
and this YouTube to see the easy way to remove the axle for a swap https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mZzAt9Q_4k

The way I remove them is to jack up the car and put high stands under the frame just in front of the rear radius rods. Be sure to chock both front wheels so the car won't roll. then with the u joint 4 bolts out, I lower the axle enough so I can put a small 2x4 under the end of the spring. I pull out the shackles and lower the axle and roll back. If the wheels are off it is easier to roll and can be lowered enough to pull out easily. To put back on, first I pack the ball joint with grease and then If I am lucky can install the u joint in the back of the transmission. If not so lucky, I might need to wire up the spline to the grease cap behind the joint. Then turn the axle a little at a time till it lines up and goes in. A helper makes this easier. The gasket goes between the 4th main and the hogs head. There is no gasket on the side where the U joint ball is installed. Install a shackle on one end and then put the 2x4's under both ends and jack up the axle enough to spread the spring to get the other shackle in. Then I install both wheels and lower the frame. On a light weight body, you might also need to put weight in the back of the car.
Norm

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 15, 2022 6:02 pm

Rata Road wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 15, 2022 5:00 pm

Good points guys. Yes the Hack would be much heavier in the rear and if the spring profiles could be different best I avoid the hassle and leave them in each car.
If I undo the spring ends on each side above the axle do they need spread for removal/refit or do you adjust the width by lifting up the body?

Thanks

There is tension on the spring ends. see this discussion http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/59 ... 1481257349
and this YouTube to see the easy way to remove the axle for a swap https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mZzAt9Q_4k

That jack adapter In the video to lift both sides is well worth the build time.

I made a spreader for a floor jack using Steve Jelf's method.

Mark Nunn wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 16, 2022 8:12 am

I made a spreader for a floor jack using Steve Jelf's method.

Rear removed.gif

Looking @ the jack adapter, I would make it much wider to pick up the castings for the backing plates. Thats a lot of strain on those tubes in the middle. That was my thinking when I built mine.

A jack attachment doesn't have to be steel. It sure makes the job a lot easier however you do it !

Rich is correct, here is my wood jack adapter. If you make one, be sure to put a piece of pipe in the middle to fit into the jack socket. Otherwise, the adapter can roll off the jack (I learned the hard way). I used wood blocks under the spring eyes to spread the spring as I jacked up the rear axle so I could slip in the shackles. You have to loosen (but not remove) the nuts on the spring perches to allow the shackles to slip in.

Thanks for noting that, Mark !! I epoxied a chunk of pipe into the hole I bored in the timber for a dowel pin that fit the jack. Very necessary !

Can you clarify or show a pic of how you adapted it to ensure it can't fall off the jack please

Thanks

Here you go.

I see now, Thanks Mark