MTFCA Forum

I finally decided on wood bands for my 1918 engine, which does NOT have detachable ears on the bands. I read some wonderful posts on drilling the countersunk holes, but one thing eludes me........assuming you drill from the outside of the band first, then finish drilling and countersink from the inside how in the world does the drill press spindle work INSIDE the band?

In other words, I can't understand how you can do any of this without slightly tilting the whole band assembly to accommodate the drill press quill (spindle). This would result in a "tilted" countersink. Or is it just not that important? Oh, I'm going to use pop rivets as suggested by Terry Horlick's post.

I drilled a pilot hole from the outside then used a 90 degree drill on the inside.

That's the idea I came up with also. It's just that everyone mentions using a drill press and I couldn't figure it out.

If the band and lining is clamped around an old drum, and the pilot holes are drilled while all is in place, could the holes then be countersunk from the other side before the wood lining is riveted to the band?

Allan from down under.

First placed the wood lining inside the band, and fitted it end to end, and clamped that wood to the band, firmly. Next, using a Magic Marker, put dots on the wood lining where the holes were in the band.

Then cut down a counter sink tool, by using a small wood bit. That fit short into the battery powered hand drill.
Then drilled first from the outside to make 'pilot' then drilled from inside the wood lining, with the lining supported on the work bench. Made the holes halfway deep, and that pilot tip on the drill followed through the little holes first made in the wood lining. The little pilot holes were sufficient for the tangs of the brass rivet to be placed.

The wood linings were 'springy' enough to spread open and use the hand drill on the bench, didn't need a drill press. Tolerances aren't needed

Once all the holes were counter sunk and drilled in the wood lining, clamped the wood lining to the inside of the metal band, holding it with small spring clamps. Then placed each rivet while the wood lining was clamped to the band, and folded over the tangs sung against the metal band.
Note the tang of the brass rivet on the metal band.

I am missing something. If pilot holes are drilled, why not take the lining and drill the countersink on the bench and not while on/in the band?

Dick, that is exactly what I was suggesting in my question. By fitting the bands around an old drum to drill the pilot holes, they have to be in the right place, with no measuring to do/go wrong. Then the countersinks are drilled before the lining is fitted.

Allan from down under.

Thanks for your input everyone........some really good tips, especially about drilling the pilot holes while the lining and band are together on an old drum. Then remove the lining for the counterbore operations.

Speaking of counterbores.........wow! I just looked at the prices for a piloted counterbore (for metal) and was stunned by the prices . That idea of using a flat drill bit looks better every minute.....

George, sorry for the delay, I haven't been reading the forum much lately... kinda busy.

Yes you can countersink bands on a drill press by twisting them a bit. I do it a bit easier: I get a $15 right angle adapter and chuck it up in the drill press. That puts the countersink bit parallel to the drill press table and the floor. I lay the band on the table and set the quill so that the countersink is at t;he proper height. I then feed the band into the countersink by sliding the band blank on the table into the countersink. The center post on the countersink locates the and holds the countersink exactly in place.

I used that cheap right angle attachment for about 15 years until it fell apart. I recently got a right angle hand held drill motor which I may try, otherwise I will get another right angle attachment. In the meantime I can go back to twisting the band and just using the drill press.

TH