MTFCA Forum

I am in the process of fitting new pistons and rods in my '22 following a bearing failure. Are there any common wear items in the valves that I should look at/replace while the head is off?

I have cleaned the oil dips in the inspection plate and will be fitting rod dippers and an external oil line from the magneto. Is it possible to clean the internal oil line with only the engine?

Any other while I'm at its?

Clean out the water passages in the block and head while you’ve got it apart. The small holes in the block get encrusted with rust and scale which causes just a little less water flow.
Also the water jacket openings in the block need to be descaled as best as you can.
Using a flexible cable cable in a cordless drill works good besides scraping with a long screwdriver. While the head and block is dry also use air to blow out the debris.

Model T’s need all help they can get when it comes to cooling. Doing the above will definitely help.

I hate posting on this system. It is either a lost post or a double post.

If you haven’t got a copy of the Ford T repair manual from your T parts supplier now is the time to buy one. The manual will show you how you can clean the oil line from the front of the motor after removing the timing front cover. Another easier option would be to add one or two of the extra inside oil lines that mount at dip tray that you can buy from the T parts supplier. One thing to check for is if your motor still uses the old Ford two piece valves that are prone to have the valve heads pop off which would be very bad for your new pistons. Now would be the time to replace any two piece valves, there are prior posts regarding doing this. I would also clean the head bolt holes with bottoming tap, also see prior posts on this, plus replace the three core plugs that are on the intake side of engine. One more thing to check in older rebuilt engines would be the condition of the transmission bands, because sometimes they get old and cotton rots in old engines. You are on your way to having a T that you can enjoy, good going.

While you have the bottom inspection plate off, be sure to remove the two threaded horse shoes in which the bolts are run. Heaps of sludge and other stuff gets caught up between them and the sides of the pan.

Allan from down under.

Check the flatness of the head with a straight edge such as a large carpenters square. If it is warped, or if the edge around the water passages is corroded, have it planed at least as much as needed to get a smooth flat surface. And while it is out you might use some valve grinding compound and a stick with suction cup on it and polish up the valve surfaces. If you have non adjustable tappets, be sure the clearance is correct. If adjustable, you can fix it easily. Without adjustable's they will need to be surfaced to fit.
Norm

Kevin. It appears that you wrote a lengthy, post containing a lot of thought and information and when you went to post it, it disappeared. That, too has happened to me, so I know how frustrating it is. It usually happens when I get a phone call, or get distracted and take longer than I normally would have to complete my post. Keep in mind that the forum has a time limit and times out if you take too long to complete your post or, if you lay down you laptop to answer the door or the phone then after several minutes pickup your laptop to complete your post, only to realize it has timed out. Hang in there and try not to get distracted for too long a time. Jim Patrick,

Often my issue is when I'm posting, oddly enough someone else posts and hits the send button at apparently the exact same moment, and out mine goes! Has happened at least twice!

"I hate posting on this system. It is either a lost post or a double post."

!!RUSSIANS!!

Not getting the post in sometimes happens to me too. Not often but when it does I’ve found that someone else was posting at about the same time and hits the submit button just before me!
The same same happened to me when I used to do a last minute bid on Ebay.

In fact one of the posts on this forum was so close to mine that it appeared just for a second or two and then disappeared. When going back to reopen the initial post the other one was posted! It beat me by about 4-5 seconds ahead of me. So I think that’s what happens. Or at least it happened to me in this way.

For a long post, would using "Save Draft" be helpful?

Hi Matt,
Best is to pull the hogs head so you can see if the oil line is clear. Suck out any junk out with a shop vac with a small tube adapted to the hose.
The internal oil line can be blown out from the inspection cover ( I'm assuming you have not pulled the hogs head) but it will only get the line clean and will not remove anything from the pan that is blown out. I have taken a piece of 1/4" copper tubing, flattened it some, drilled a 3/16" hole close to one end. Solder the tube end closed next to the hole. Bent the tube so you can fit it up behind the cam gear and line the hole up with the oil tube. put a compression fitting on the other end that will screw onto a blow gun. Have someone listen through the trans inspection cover for air or other sounds. Keep in mind if you hear a clank or clunk something hard may end up in the mag that can damage the coil or triple gears.
Craig.