MTFCA Forum

I just received a high resolution copy of the 1915 wood dash, on the computer it idles at13% and can be brought up to 100% and is crystal clear, I needed some assistance to transfer it to my USB drive so that I could get a full size image. At the photo printers at 100% the image was 4" x 4" and to increase the size to full size it was increased to 2400% on their equipment, still it remained clear and after about 4 - 5 tries I finally got a full non distorted print. The equipment did not match exact though there is about a 3/16 discrepancy in the overall width. The fact that it is clear allows to read all the detail. There are some variables and one firewall/dash drawing is not the be all end all. Listed on the drawing are about 20 revisions starting date 1910 - 1915. The 1915 parts book does no list a horn, however there are holes on some drawings for a horn and some with out. The thickness from one to the other dash is different, some required a rabbet to fit (ie remove about a 1/16) to fit. On later models they were made slightly thinner to fit without the rabbet. Some drawings show the drilled holes for the ignition wiring to be 1" some, 3/4" and some 1/2". Some makers designed the shape of the dash slightly different at the point where it terminates at the frame. Some have the predrilled holes for the brass patent plate and some don't. The parts book lists a seal between the top of the dash and the cowl, however there is some text existing that counters that part, it said that Ford did not offer a seal and would only be installed at the dealer if there was a complaint? Some showed a veneer skin on both sides and some on one side only. Some were tonged and grooved and some were flat joints. Some has a hole drilled for a headlight switch and some didn't. A second drawing I had looked at also had 13 revisions, so there are a ton of dash variables out there in the Model T world. The skins then may have been .040 - .050 or on one side at .060, today cherry veneer is only .020. You have to start backwards with the skin at .020 and the space in the hood former is .690 therefore for a perfect non interference fit the core would have to be .650. This is my current project. Some drawings show a finished thickness of .677 - .697. The space in the hood former is .690 so therefore these numbers would have to be the finished thickness. The drawing calls out that the assembly is three ply wood, this would be the core and the skins on both sides. If you took the thickness to be finished at .690 to fit the hood former, the core would have to be determined based on the thickness of the two skins. Skins can be from .020 - .060. The skins would have to be acquired firstly then the core to fit. My first visit to the veneer store the cherry skin was .020, I would like something a little thicker and I am shopping for something a little thicker, maybe .030. I have already made 6 cores at 5/8 but .020 skin will not work. The core will have to be increased to .650 with .020 on each side to total the .690. I know somebody will say just use 3/4" plywood with a rabbit to fit, but the exercise here is to remake it as close to possible to an original whatever that is.