Sizing rods before babbitt
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Sizing rods before babbitt
Trying to get at least .045-.050 babbitt In the rod. Ending with 1.350 rough bore. Cut from .015 to .025. Balance will be addressed after they are poured and cut. Thoughts?
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
The guru who used to do the best babbit work in our state had me weigh a set of rods to get a reasonably matched set. Then he specified that the caps be at least .600" at the bolt holes. Any less meant that the cap had been filed once too often. That way when rebabbited, there was plenty of material to work with and rods which had not been messed with.
Others will have different opinions.
Allan from down under.
Others will have different opinions.
Allan from down under.
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
I use a good rod in my fixture, then set caps in it and measure their depth to qualify them. Perfect caps are ideal, but it is probably an acceptable cap If you have to bore maybe .015” or less out of the cap to make it correct.
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
As it is getting more difficult to find good caps that haven’t been filed too much, I am looking at using two sets of shims. I haven’t had to yet.
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
Ford prints give the rough bore 1.312—1.332 D
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
Ford prints show .680—.690 for caps at the bolt hole.
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
Correction .685—.690
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
We never bore out any Model T caps because they have been filed. I built a Jig that takes T, A, and B caps, and also the rod, and machines the part lines on both. They fit together, perfectly. Also, they are machined flat to the bolt hole, both directions. If that isn't done, the Rod, and Cap will not slide together, with out binding, so you would have to beat the cap on, and beat the cap off.
The best way to pick for same weight, is to weigh each rod, before the babbitt is melted out, afterward, is tough.
With the spun poured Rod, we machined the Model T rods on the out side, thrust area, on each side, at 30 degrees. also bored the hole, in one shot. We made our own shims, as they have to encircle the bolt hole.
If we jig pour T Rods, we cut the thrust sides flat. The centers are still bored the same size. I will see if I can find some pictures.
We always use shims in the rod to set the cap out to where it belongs. The spun poured rods, took two solid shims of .032 first, and then one piece of .032 laminate, 16 pieces, of .002. we have never built any bearing with .003 thousandths thickness.
We never cut a rod or cap that wasn't in the same position as the Ford factory. The practice of boring metal out of the cap, to make more room for babbitt, because of the cap being filed, is, very, very pour practice, and then use Chevy rod bolts, be cause the originals, are to long now, is also shabby.
To find out any given rod, of how many shims, are needed, the cap is slid on the original bolts, and the nut is screwed on the bolts, and the cotter pin holes are aligned, and the hole in the bolt, should align with the bottom of the slot in the nut, then you will know how many shims are needed in the rod.
By boring out the cap, you weaken the trust of the rod cap, and also are making a smaller, thinner thrust on the Cap, from moving the cap forward.
T, and A Rods.
Herm.
The best way to pick for same weight, is to weigh each rod, before the babbitt is melted out, afterward, is tough.
With the spun poured Rod, we machined the Model T rods on the out side, thrust area, on each side, at 30 degrees. also bored the hole, in one shot. We made our own shims, as they have to encircle the bolt hole.
If we jig pour T Rods, we cut the thrust sides flat. The centers are still bored the same size. I will see if I can find some pictures.
We always use shims in the rod to set the cap out to where it belongs. The spun poured rods, took two solid shims of .032 first, and then one piece of .032 laminate, 16 pieces, of .002. we have never built any bearing with .003 thousandths thickness.
We never cut a rod or cap that wasn't in the same position as the Ford factory. The practice of boring metal out of the cap, to make more room for babbitt, because of the cap being filed, is, very, very pour practice, and then use Chevy rod bolts, be cause the originals, are to long now, is also shabby.
To find out any given rod, of how many shims, are needed, the cap is slid on the original bolts, and the nut is screwed on the bolts, and the cotter pin holes are aligned, and the hole in the bolt, should align with the bottom of the slot in the nut, then you will know how many shims are needed in the rod.
By boring out the cap, you weaken the trust of the rod cap, and also are making a smaller, thinner thrust on the Cap, from moving the cap forward.
T, and A Rods.
Herm.
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
pictures
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
Herm, those rods look too good to use on my car!
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
Hey Herm: Those X-Grooves look pretty clean. Are they done on a Waterbury or similar machine or do you use another of your home-spun jigs?
Sean Butler
Huntington Beach, CA
Huntington Beach, CA
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
They were put in with one of 3 Storm Vulcan bearing groovers .Sean Butler wrote: ↑Tue Apr 16, 2019 7:49 pmHey Herm: Those X-Grooves look pretty clean. Are they done on a Waterbury or similar machine or do you use another of your home-spun jigs?
Herm.
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Re: Sizing rods before babbitt
Very nice. I've never seen one of those.
Sean Butler
Huntington Beach, CA
Huntington Beach, CA