MTFCA Forum

Almost eight years ago this list appeared in the MTT. I assume Dan distilled it from numerous forum discussions and his own experience. I'm using it to prepare my runabout for travel, but with a few alterations. For example, instead of a bicycle tire pump I'll take an electric compressor. It runs off the12 volt mower battery I use for the tail/brake lights and turn signals. I worried that it might be too much for the battery, but I tried it and it easily blew a clincher up to 70 psi with plenty of juice left over to fire the coils. For several years I carried a bicycle foot pump, and it worked until it didn't. I'm also adding an exhaust pipe wrench to the list. You could argue that it's unlikely to be needed, but on one trip I did need one and was lucky enough to have it under the seat.


I wonder if anybody else has amendments to offer, in some cases perhaps with reasons for them.

More complete flat tire repair.
Tire irons, valve core tool.(cross type to also keep the stem from retreating into the rim) WD-40 as tire lube, parts & hand de-greaser or a lite spray lube like LPS 1, metal valve stems complete.
A double alligator end jumper wire for grounding the gen & as an ignition jumper +.
Gaskets and/or a fresh tube of ultra black.
More than 1 quart of oil for most of us.
Powdered radiator stop leak.

1. Cell phone to get onto this Forum to call for help !
2. AAA card to carry your T to someone you found on this Forum to help !

I suggest adding a thermometer to the list. I carry an infrared thermometer.
Also, a fuel level gauge (wooden ruler).

Someone should ask the Coast to Coast German Team what all the carried and used. The rebuilt a rear axle on the get go, had all kinds of problems with wood spoke wheels (likely the biggest issue), had coil issues, flats and a modern style Hyatt due to NO grease.

Any trip should begin with a full service & inspection.
Why would a rational person start with wheels with loose spokes?
That being said, a spoke jack & shim washers would be good for one in the group to carry.

Axle bearing issue. The further from stock one strays, the more trouble & failures will occur. A deep pre trip inspection & knowing the condition/state of ones rear axle might have caught it. You rebuild it, you know. For this long trip, I would pull the outer bearings as part of a thorough inspection.

A friend carries ALL the guts of a rux, including 2 axles & a gear set under the back seat of a 27 touring. Considering recent failures, I would include a drive shaft bearing & sleeve also.

During a national tour, a fellow lost a pinion tooth that blew out the ring gear & carrier flange. Only pulled the left housing. We straightened the flange with the back of a borrowed axe. Borrowed needed gears & bolts. That T is still in service as repaired. I have never had so much fun on a tour. Pisses the wife off though.

I belong to the Messerschmitt and Isetta Clubs in England and Germany mostly for easy access to parts and over the years have emailed many members. These folks drive their dinky 9-12 HP vehicles thousands of miles per year with very few tools and spare parts since distances between towns are much closer than here in the U.S. These small towns usually have a small machine shop and Jack leg mechanic available.

They also rinse their TShirts, underwear and socks out every night and take very few clothes.
Much different than touring in old iron here in the United States.



PS-A Model T drives like it is on clouds compared to the 8” Schmitt tires…..

Any trip should begin with a full service & inspection.
Why would a rational person start with wheels with loose spokes?

Agreed. I believe many or most of the "events" on the recent trip were the direct result of driving newly purchased cars that contained undetected surprises. Of course, even a car well prepared by an expert can have an event during a trip, but careful inspection and maintenance before leaving home can prevent many surprises and reduce the chances of others.

Steve Jelf wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 11, 2022 2:00 pm

Almost eight years ago this list appeared in the MTT. I assume Dan distilled it from numerous forum discussions and his own experience. I'm using it to prepare my runabout for travel, but with a few alterations. For example, instead of a bicycle tire pump I'll take an electric compressor. It runs off the12 volt mower battery I use for the tail/brake lights and turn signals. I worried that it might be too much for the battery, but I tried it and it easily blew a clincher up to 70 psi with plenty of juice left over to fire the coils. For several years I carried a bicycle foot pump, and it worked until it didn't. I'm also adding an exhaust pipe wrench to the list. You could argue that it's unlikely to be needed, but on one trip I did need one and was lucky enough to have it under the seat.


resources_11caa2ac-c43b-4629-9d12-1382e5cdcd16-supplies.jpg


I wonder if anybody else has amendments to offer, in some cases perhaps with reasons for them.

Just asking. How much does all this weigh?

Take along a small amount of wire. Here in Texas we call it bailing wire. Maybe hold up a exhaust pipe or? Maybe a length or rope?

What to carry depends on how far from home you'll be traveling and who/skills are in the caravan, as well as the contingency plans you have prepared for. They can be as simple or detailed as you want. The simplest contingency plan for any problem: use the mobile phone & credit card.
Contingency planning is based on risks & and the likely hood of it occurring. Risk can be equated to a problem and your groups ability to repair/resolve it, plus parts, tools and time required to repair. 3 values: low(simple); moderate, or high(special tools, time etc). Likely Hood just 3 values: Low, Medium & High
Note: These values and ranking will vary by group because of skills & potential cost of repair by others.

Make a list of potential problems and assign them YOUR risk & likely hood values. You don't need to dig deep in describing problems for example: Any Problem with Rear Axle (High Risk, Low Likelihood)
Some general areas : Tires (flat, rim, spokes), Steering, Engine (fan belt, anything else). Transmission, Body, Radiator, Front axle, Rear axle
example Flat Tire low severity - medium likely hood

The next step is rank your list in this order
-High severity and high likelihood or medium severity and high likelihood -
-High severity and medium likelihood.
-High severity and low likelihood.
-Medium severity and medium likelihood or low severity and high likelihood
-Medium severity and low likelihood, low severity and medium likelihood, or low severity and low likelihood

Once the list is ranked, you can make a plan to resolve (tools&parts or dial Help)
--Any Problem with Rear Axle (High Risk, Low Likelihood) - mobile phone, call so&so for help, cash/credit card
--Flat Tire (low severity - medium likely hood) - good spare, take 1 tube (maybe patching), spreader, tire pump ....

If you drive a car with a vaporizer, like I do, carry a spare heat plate. Cheap, no weight and easy to change. No symptoms until they burn through and then you are dead by the side of the road. Happened to me once and luckily I had a spare hanging on the garage wall. Called my Dad and he brought it to me a few miles from his house. There is always one under the seat now. While I was waiting for my Dad to arrive with the part, a police (RCMP) officer stopped to see if he could be of assistance. I said "no thanks, there is a part on the way from the Ford Plant". Right on cue, my Dad drove up with the part. The officer gave us both an odd look and drove away. My Dad is long gone but that memory still brings smiles to our family.

I would love to drive a tour through Europe, like starting in London, through the tunnel, into Paris, into Germany, then Austria, into Hungary and down to the Black Sea in Romania. There are model T enthusiast all over Europe that would be willing to help with parts and such just like the American groups all along the route the Germans drove. There is a good size model T convention right now in Romania taking place. The only thing would be adviseable is to take your own model T to drive that you know is serviced and reliable since there aren’t an abundance of vendors as they are here for parts and major service. You may also plan on selling your car so you don’t have to bring it back to the U. S. if that would be agreeable with you. There are plenty of buyers there. Steven Chase’s father has taken many groups to Europe many years back for tours and it can be done again. We went through Bavaria two years ago in a modern car and what a joy. The forests and farms, the countryside and small villages, the castles, the several hundred year old estates that are open to visitors and absolutely gorgeous.
Just my own opinion and dream. Frank

In a book about Corvairs I used to have, the author mentioned not taking 'big' parts on trips, mostly because of space and weight. Instead, he suggested having them boxed up and ready to ship, in case there was an incident. That way, you are prepared but not hauling around stuff you don't need.

If you have friends/neighbors/family you trust, that is always an option as well.

v/r,
jason

I carry a mounted (wire wheels) spare tire, a lightweight WalMart scissor jack, clean rags, a 4X4 wood block, and a big can of aerosol "Fix A Flat", plus a 1/2" ratchet, 4" extension, and a good deep socket to fit the lug nuts. Also: a screwdriver and a fire extinguisher. The car starts on magneto, battery, crank, or starter, and often a free start, and could be pushed or pulled, so I think that's covered adequately. I have a small 12 V battery to power a Garmin device which could stand in for a spare ignition battery. So far, in thousands of miles of driving, I haven't needed any of it. (I'll probably have a blowout and a flat today) If I was going to drive several hundred miles, I'd want more tools, a good tire pump, patch kit, tube, motorcycle tire irons, and some spare items, like bulbs, a coil, a set of points, some assorted nuts & bolts, wire, and tape, a can of MicroMist, winshield cleaner, and a couple of qts of oil. Something to sit or lay down on, like a saddle blanket, is always a good thing to have. The small LED clip on/hang-on/magnetic work lights can be handy, too. I need to pick up 2 or 3 of them and one of those LED headband lights. The headband light can't be beat for working under the hood after dark, or just checking tires, oil, etc.

RainX for windshield (screen)...and a “good deep socket” 15/16” for many maintenance applications.

Posting your planned route on the Forum and adding to it should get responses from members that may be along the route, that could provide help if needed (parts, labor, shelter). I believe that this contributed to the success of the Coast to Coast Team. And we all tracked Steve's latest trek to OCF. Also it may point out some places to stop & se that you were unaware of. I alerted the Coast to Coast Team about Craig Beek's Model T Museum their initial planned route was within 1 mile for the Museum - they stopped and visited for over 2 hours, and said that they had never seen so many Brass T's in such perfect condition in one place, and some Models that they had never seen.

I agree with George House.

Every Model T should have a 25 amp fuse installed to protect electrical system. Carry several spare fuses, because when you think you've fixed the problem but second blown fuse says otherwise, you'll need another, and maybe another.......? .....'nuff said!

2nighthawks wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 21, 2022 4:28 pm

Every Model T should have a 25 amp fuse installed to protect electrical system. Carry several spare fuses, because when you think you've fixed the problem but second blown fuse says otherwise, you'll need another, and maybe another.......? .....'nuff said!

Where do you install it?

This wiring diagram shows where to install the fuse.

I installed mine about a foot below the terminal block under the hood where it is easily accessible. I also got the modern fuse holder so fuses are readily available. I did not want it under the car where it can get wet and I have to lie on my back to get at it.