MTFCA Forum

Found this in one of my nuts/bolts buckets.
Horn bracket maybe?

Yes, but Not T related. Possibly Delco.

Here's the horn that came with the car.... 14 1/4 in tall.

I think the two plates riveted to the main bracket was an attempt to reduce vibration around the early thirties. Ford did something like that about 1933. I'm guessing it's a bit later than T but don't recognize it.
Rich
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/att ... g.3954098/

It's huge at over 14 inches long and not a good fit under the hood on the drivers side.... but I betcha it'll sound awesome....

Why is there a jumper wire as circled in yellow?
Is that the (-) neg ground side?

Automobile horns themselves across the decades can be wired one of two ways by each manufacturer and model. Either the horn will have one wire connector somewhere on the outside of the horn, and the motor or diaphragm or whatever other mechanism makes the noise is grounded internally through the horn body, through the mounting brackets, through the engine/frame/body and or whatever else is in the path to create the full circuit for the power? OR, the horn will have two wire connectors somewhere on the outside of the horn, with the motor (or whatever makes the noise?) isolated from the horn body.
The single wire post horns must be wired with the power from the battery (or whatever is providing the power?) going to and through a switch (the horn button!) then power wired to the horn itself.
The two wire post horns can be wired from the battery through a horn button to the horn, like the single wire post horns are done. However, in order to work, the second wire post must be wired to a ground to complete the circuit!
A lot of times, the easiest way to do that is a short jumper wire from the second post to the horn body itself! Provided that the planned mounting is onto something that will provide a solid ground through the horn body mounting!

One of the advantages of the two post horns, is that they can be wired another way! Instead of taking the power through the horn button and then delivering it to the horn? Run the power to and through the horn itself first. Then take the second post, run that up to the horn button so that when pressed, it connects to the ground completing the circuit! The main advantage of this routing is that the "hot" wires are run through substantially stable areas, then through the horn. The ground wire is "less dangerous" if it gets shorted than are the "hot" wires. This puts the wires subjected to steering column shafts and tubes with their constant motion, twisting and vibration endangering the wire, now endangering the "less dangerous" ground wire rather than the "hot" wire.
In other words. The places most likely to create a short circuit now are likely to only cause the horn to blow until you yank the wires loose somewhere! Whereas running the power through the horn button and then to the grounded horn has a greater potential of a short circuit on the "hot" wire resulting in a fire or other more serious damage.

I've restored Klaxon's before. But only the non electric hand powered plunger kind. I'm going to disassemble and clean it up. I've been thinking about putting it on the car, despite room being an issue under the hood. But I have a space where that melted foot starter button used to be.... so off to learn some new things for sure...
-Thanks for the help!

The two-wire horn would also be good to use on a wood bodied vehicle.

Horn found to be a Klaxon c18 high pitch.
The motor does not work. Tore into it today and was disappointed. Electric Motor is junk.