MTFCA Forum

Has anybody seen a video that clearly shows how to adjust that clevis to achieve a good neutral? I haven't seen any. Seen several good videos on lots of other fixes/adjustments.
Thanks,
John

Its well explained & diagrammed in the service manual.

I've seen all the diagrams and descriptions. Just looking for a video of it being done

I get it some folks are more visual than verbal. On some things T related I enjoy watching my old club VHS tapes plus I get to see some old friends that have passed on in life but not in sharing their knowledge.

John

If you haven't done it, maybe a couple of pics will help, and some hints.

The Ford Service Fig. 508 shows the clevis gap that should be made, for a good free neutral, the rest of the linkage and the pedal cams, and the clutch need to be in good order too.

First, check is to be sure the Ford can roll on its own, hand pushing or pulling, without substantial and stiff drag, when the clutch handle is pulled to vertical (without rear brakes engaged). You know you have neutral with the clutch pack that way, and the Adj. Bolt on the clutch lever is set ok.
Now, disengage the clevis pin from the clevis and clutch lever.

Then, adjust Low Pedal, to have the low band rather tight, if loose, getting a 'free neutral' is difficult. Also a loose low band will stick down and that will keep the T in forward motion! Have the low pedal completely compress the low band tight, about 2" or so from the floorboard. This adjustment is made with the bolt and lock nut on the side of the hogshead.
Now, pull back and hold low pedal so all the slop is out of the pedal cam, use a retaining means to hold the pedal back.

Put the clutch handle forward into high gear, so the Adj. Bolt is off the cross shaft cam.



Turn the clevis to gain the approx. gap. Now relax the low pedal from its most rearward position, then align the clevis and the clutch lever, and replace clevis pin and cotter.


Now start the Ford, and check free neutral with the low pedal, should be a good range established. While started, note if the T wants to really creep forward, with the clutch handle straight up, or with your foot holding low pedal in 'free neutral'. If the creep is excessive, turn the Adj. Bolt on the clutch lever to minimize creep. Normal to have some minimal creep, that is the reason the clutch handle also controls the rear brakes, but on level ground, with engine running and in 'free neutral', there shouldn't be much at all with a warm motor.

Thanks, Dan, for taking the time and effort to post the information and photos.

Great photos Dan.The last pic just needs the 1/16" notation. It would do wonders if the service manuals could be updated with this type of photo instead of the reproduced copies of copies of the old photos.
Thanks for taking the time.

, thank you for your time and effort with pictures and dialogue... Clutch lever bolt on my car was installed with bolt head up and not a more sensible way with the bolt head down as you pictured. At least that bolt head will take the wear against the lever and will not screw up the threads if at any time it had to be replaced. Thanks again and great work!

Dan that last photo took me a long time to understand how to take the measurement. The book is so blurry. You pictures should be mad a sticky in the tech section. Nice job!

A master machinist friend of mine produced several of these for some T friends - completely eliminates wear on the throw-out ramp !

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 03, 2022 11:42 am

A master machinist friend of mine produced several of these for some T friends - completely eliminates wear on the throw-out ramp !

That a really nice piece of genius.
I bet parking brake engagement is 200% smoother.

Hi Dan,
Thank you so much for taking and posting these photos. I appreciate the explanation and I'm sure a lot of others do as well.
John