MTFCA Forum

Hi All,
In trying to start my 26 Tourer with 23 engine I rebuilt the Holley NH and used the viton tipped needle/float valve that was supplied with the rebuild kit. It wouldn't start no matter what. Ran down the battery. Finally today took the carb off and saw that the new (viton tipped) needle was stuck. I had the same issue with another Holley NH and the viton tip and replaced it with the original all brass needle and the engine run just fine.
Has anybody had issues with the rubber (viton) tip supplied with the rebuild kit from the vendors? Is there a way to keep it from sticking closed? A drop of oil maybe? Or should I just go back to the original all brass needle?
Thanks.
John

I use them. I have not had a problem with mine. Maybe someone pushed hard on the float and caused it to stick. Look at the tip and if it is not grooved but smooth taper, you might be able to use it and it will be just fine. In fact I find that the Viton tip actually seals better than the steel one.
Norm

I cqn't help wondering if the use of non-ethynol gasoline would have prevented this problem??? I use it exclusively in my Model A and Model T's and they all love it! (???)

If you adjust the float, putting all that bend pressure on it , it will stick & tend to stick into the future. In the past, the inlet hole (which is too small) had a sharp edge that would catch. I cant say if they are still sharp. I used to take a small ball bearing to remove the sharp edge. Any more, I automatically re-drill the hole to the proper size as original (.125-.130") The re-drill process removes any sharp edge as it centers into the original hole. Since then, no sticking issues. Look at the needle for cut damage & the seat for a sharp edge. Then tap a ball bearing in the seat, that trick will remove the seat burr.

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I may have just fixed the problem. If there was a burr in the seat that may have caused the viton needle to stick. So I took a thin wood skewer (for shish kabob) and a wooden match stick and spun them for awhile to remove any possible sharp edge at the opening. Then I tried the needle and pushed it gently up and down and now the needle doesn't stick. I may have pushed the needle up too hard as was suggested when I set the float level. Hopefully this will get it started. Also tested the float in boiling water. No pin holes.
Thanks for the help.
John

Get one of Scott’s correct made float valves.

I have a viton needle. Cleaned out the hole to .150 but I don't know what it is supposed to be. I had no problem with non alcohol gas. When the gas got to be $1.50 more than 87 octane two years ago, I switched without a problem. Enough power and has been trouble free.

Art Mirtes

I think Scott's valve and seat works very well on long hills. Which they don't exist near me. But maybe the improved valve would improve my cars performance even around here.

Art Mirtes

In California, the state regulates the blend of the fuel. summer blend, and winter blend. You get whatever the blend is for the date you buy the gas. I haven't had any problem with it except if it has been in the tank unused for a long time it tends to get like varnish. So if the car is to be parked for a long time it is best to drain the tank and use it in another car which will be driven regularly.
Norm

Yes, my Viton tip was sticking as well, same story as yours. I replaced with a full flow valve from Scott Conger, and all my problems went away.

I agree with Norm. Habits formed in the early days with metal to metal seats where we used to Lever the float arm with a screwdriver to force the seat hard closed then bend the float to the correct height is a death sentence to the Viton tip!

I have used Needle and Seats (Viton tipped) from the Suppliers for years on all of our T’s and never had a issue with sticking
or leaking. Of course there could be a issue now with the product or batches of the product. No issue with fuel in Australia as has been mentioned. Just my experiences

Alan In Western Australia

Art M wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 06, 2022 7:35 pm

I have a viton needle. Cleaned out the hole to .150 but I don't know what it is supposed to be. I had no problem with non alcohol gas. When the gas got to be $1.50 more than 87 octane two years ago, I switched without a problem. Enough power and has been trouble free.

Art Mirtes

For those of you playing @ home. I would not recommend drilling the seat that far(.150) The viaton tip measures .160" That doesnt leave much seating area or room for error.

No offence intended to Art or anyone else reading this. I deeply apologize if I have offended anyone with this post. Feel free to notify me if you were offended or slightly upset & I will apologize directly to you, the offended.
Please dont tell on me.

John,
No need to apologize. I really didn't know how much to take out The bore was so crudy that a .100 inch bit would barely fit through. I merely opened it until the bore looked clean, which was .150 inch.

I am just lucky that the needle hasn't become stuck. I am going to change the seat before any problems occur.. 650 miles on it and my luck might be running out.

Art Mirtes

Good day everyone
Rubber tipped needles need a small clip that attaches the needle to the float tab. These clips were used on most all oem production carbs. Without the clip viton tipped needles will eventually stick. Sometimes tapping on the bowl with the wood end of a hammer will jar it loose.