MTFCA Forum

Trying to help out a new guy.
Probably any key may work, especially a 55, however he wants a matching key
No numbers on this key.
Anyone tell what number this maybe!

The later style switches have the key number stamped in the lock cylinder beside the key opening. The numbers are small.

Does the switch plate have "Ford" in script under the headlight lever ? If not, it's most likely an aftermarket & likely a # 55 key if not stamped on the cylinder.

Really hard to tell without the other keys to compare. (my keyboard is at the winter house)

Ford only had 4 tumbler notch (teeth) combos, the rest was done with the groove locations on the blade.

Here is a picture of a keyboard with a set of keys...maybe you can zoom up and see????

Looks like MAc's/Ecklers took the time to photo ever key individually. #55 guesses appear to be correct
https://www.macsautoparts.com/catalogse ... %20t%20key

Even the ones you buy aftermarket do not always work. I have a key for my car and it happens that a friend has a car with the same key. He got one at either a swap meet or on line with the same number, but it didn't work. Finally found one that worked. The aftermarket keys are not always ground exactly right.
Norm

Had a customer's car with replacement 55 tumbler and key. If you inserted the key all the way it would not work, if left about 1/8" out it was fine.

Sure looks like 55 as many said.
I'll get a 55 and try!.
Thank you all,
Brian

If a new key doesn't fit properly in a 100 year old pot metal lock - could it be the lock and not the key?

When you get a look at the switch assembly, let us know if it's Ford script under the light handle, please. Maybe even post a photo.

Some years ago, some of the repro black switch plate assemblies all used a #55 key and it could be removed in ALL positions !

If there is no number or Ford script on the key or the ignition switch, then that key is for the reproduction ignition switches.

A #55 key may or may not work. The tooth profile is similar to a #55 but there are some distinct differences. It all depends on how worn out the cylinder and the key are.

Brian, I sent you an email through the forum. I can help you out with the key.

The after marked switch keys and cylinders are cut like a #55 Ford key, but that groove is centered and not offset like the #55 Ford key, so they do not interchange.

I have a NORS C.D. switch assembly, and it is exactly the same as the Ford issue, except there is no script under the headlight switch lever. Also, the back of the assembly is bare metal.